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aidlook last won the day on August 8 2016

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About aidlook

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  • Birthday 05/07/1986

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  1. Let's give this another try

    Well, it hasn't been very quiet lately... I was supposed to finish this project before starting my next DIY project -kids. However, the day after my last post our twin girls were born a few months earlier than expected, so the project has been put on hold since then :-). In the meantime we've managed to sell the apartment, and bought a house. This means that there will soon be a new workshop! Actually, I don't know if soon is the word, but the (much larger than before) dedicated space is there at least. We'll see when I'll have my hands free for long enough to finish this build.
  2. Let's give this another try

    Time to get started on the nut, which will be made out of unbleached bone. Pencilling in the shape and rough slot depth using feeler gauges. Rough shaping Checking rough shape against fretboard (fret ends just cut flush at the moment). Starter slots cut, checking spacing against fretboard. Slots filed to fit Ernie Ball Super Slinkys. Final shaping and tuning of slots will be done later. Also found some time to get started on the truss rod cover: Ripped a thin piece of maple from the headstock cutoffs and sandwiched a spare piece of rosewood binding inbetween.
  3. Let's give this another try

    Thank you! The slower process makes it surprisingly easy to control the results. Once the layout is in place, and the knife walls are established, the chisel seats itself in the correct place. I did some tests for the neck pocket on a scrap piece, and the only time i had an issue was when trying to remove material faster.
  4. Let's give this another try

    Progress made, time for an update! First time trying a fret job with blind fret slots: Before I could finish fretting the board, there was a small mistake to fix... While shaping the headstock, I had a slip-up with the chisel and cut into the side of the fretboard at the first fret. I cut a matching shaving from some left-over rosewood binding and glued into place: Time to get started on the pickup cavity. The corners were drilled to achieve radii, and knife walls were established tangentially to the holes for chopping: The method I used for cutting the recess was: 1. Chop along knife wall 2.Cut towards wall at and angle, creating a bevel 3.Repeat 1&2 a few times, going down a couple of mm in total. 4.Remove material with router plane, going down gradually until bottom is flush. 5.Repeat 1-4 until depth is achieved. Someone with more chisel experience (not trying this for the first time) would probably have a much faster method of removing material. However, the results were satisfying (holes could have been straighter). Bridge holes have also been drilled. Final scheme for the guitar will be oiled wood, with black/brass hardware. First mockup shots:
  5. Let's give this another try

    It's mostly been a lack of focus on dialling in the right balance setting. I'll start working in natural light, and transition to indoor lamps over a couple of hours, forgetting to change balance settings.
  6. Let's give this another try

    Thank you I think most of them were taken with a 35mm f1.8, maybe one or two with a 50mm f1.4 (but probably not shot wide open). I find that both work really well for handheld shooting of progress pictures with whatever light is available. With the light varying between natural light and halogen spots, I could have paid better attention to the white balance. The cherry knobs are great, although the birch would match the E.A. Berg chisels, and I'm quite partial to it after having owned an 80's SonorLite drum kit which I regret having sold:
  7. Let's give this another try

    Thanks! Yes, that's a mahogany body (not stained, or finished), with a maple neck & rosewood fret board.
  8. Let's give this another try

    Ok, overdue for an update. Drilled the tuner holes using a jig: The results were satisfying, putting some black sperzels on this one: Started cutting the neck pocket with a chisel and router plane: Trying neck in the slot to ensure a snug fit: The pocket has now been cut to full depth, but no pictures taken yet (it's a good fit).
  9. Let's give this another try

    Having grown up in Scandinavia, I'm surprised that the 24h sunlight still surprises me every year. Maybe it's the ability to work in natural light at midnight that's causing the mistakes... Thank you, not sure how skilfully they're used though, seeing as it's my first try with most tools (all practice has been virtual -watching Paul Seller's youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCc3EpWncNq5QL0QhwUNQb7w). Satisfaction level is very high however.
  10. Let's give this another try

    So, having not done this for a while, I made a mistake when calculating the taper for the neck. My trigonometry was fine, only problem is that I've cut the neck taper to match a taper between the string spacing at the bridge, and the neck width at the nut. No problem -this mistake will be hidden (along with some fret tangs) using rosewood binding strips. Board has been recut into correct taper, but a few mm narrower: Made a quick jig for gluing up the binding, using wedges to att pressure: Binding scraped flush: Finished result: Back to making the neck... Truss rod being glued in using epoxy: With the fretboard glued on, the neckshape was roughed out with the frame saw & pull saw: Planing sides square and flush with fretboard: Removing excess headstock material with chisel: Roughing out neck profile at both ends before spokeshaving:
  11. Let's give this another try

    I think the geometry of the cutter might be a bit restrictive for cutting curved channels (I suspect the minimum possible radius decreases the deeper you want to cut the channel). Quick update on the build... made some chocolate shavings! Cutting the neck taper using a hand plane (favourite method so far): Ready for gluing:
  12. Let's give this another try

    Absolutely fantastic trails around the Sunnmøre region of Norway Prostheta Some progress over the weekend -time to thickness the headstock: Moving on to the issue of cutting the truss rod slot without a router. A plough plane would've been ideal for this, unfortunately I don't own one. I figured a router plane would be well-suited for the job as well, but the gap between the fence and the blade was much to narrow. Onwards with an ad-hoc solution: This is not how you're supposed to set up a router plane (blade turned 90 degrees, no place for shavings to go). Using a spirit level as a fence for the body of the router plane to ride on. I would not recommend this method, however, the results we fine:
  13. Let's give this another try

    Nothing is more zen than a full-length shaving with the smoothing plane... I also find that snow-capped mountains and fjords help set the mood. The router plane is very satisfying to work with, and gives really nicely finished surfaces at the bottom of cavities/recesses etc. I still haven't figured out which method works the best for the neck pockets. The last attempt was to remove most of the material using a hand drill and chisel (inside corner radii produced by the drill), and finishing the bottom with the router plane. This gave fairly good results, but I think I need some more practice before putting the chisels to the body. In terms of the tool, mine's a Lie-Nielsen, which is beautifully crafted. However, I think that the Veritas large router plane could be the better alternative due to the wider selection of blades available (I'm intending to do the truss rod channel with the router plane, but the fairly wide Lie-Nielsen blade limits the truss rod selection to U-channel type unless I grind the blade width down). Moving on to thicknessing the head stock:
  14. Let's give this another try

    Hardwood floors, and a cheap work bench that is much too light, didn't make for a very stable workpiece. However, it works fine now -except for the occasional catch, where the back legs lift off the floor. Anyway, time to scarf joint the headstock: Squared up the neck blank. Marking the the neck angle. Cutting the neck angle After sawing. Screwed together for planing Almost finished planing Planed Dry run before gluing, screws to keep things in place. Glueing!
  15. Let's give this another try

    So, progress is slow, but the outline has now been finished: I also made some practice runs at making neck pockets using a chisel and router plane: Time to get started on the neck, which will be maple. It turns out that hand planing maple required a fair amount of physical exertion, it also made a mess: