Uncle Os

Thank you so much, Kind Fellow. :o)

Elbow cut... Forearm contour, Senor. :o)

Hey All! Can any of y'all point me in the right direction? I'm having a heakuva time getting a clean binding channel on the lowest portion of an elbow cut. All of the flat/straight stuff has a nice, clean, professional binding channel. However... That last corner on the elbow cut is tough. I've tried mounting my laminate trimmer on drawer slides... The stewmac dremel binding guide and, of course, by hand. Thus far everything I've tried isn't up to snuff. Any guidance and or assistance tremendously appreciated. Uncle Os

Thanks Fellas! I'm on it like white on rice! :o) Yeah... It's my fault. The lumber came from the beach area when I got it home, I set about makin' the bodies. They are cut and routed but not sanded. I will most likely toss the one that's got that deep crack. Thanks again. :o)

Hey Guys! Welp... I blew it. I bought and processed more wood than I needed. I was reorganizing the shop when I noticed some gnarly cracks on the end grain. What would you all suggest to halt or at least slow down the drying process? These bodies are far too beautiful to go to waste. They are all one piece/super light and resonant alder, swamp ash and pine. A couple of the cracks go front to back and go about 1" into the body. I was going to start wicking CA in to those cracks and then coat them with something. But I don't know what to use that will allow me to finish them later without much hassle. Suggestions? Comments? Criticisms? Respectfully, Unc

Welp... My method failed. The results varried depending upon the brand of the pot. Soo... I guess I'll just give Bourns a call and get a bunch of Low Friction pots. :o/ At Westhemann... lol@ my bitch... Yessir. But... If folks experience that 'worn in' feeling on a new guitar... Ya get a few bonus points. :o)

I think I've gottit figgered out. One more test before I confirm though.

Welp... I went over a couple of pots. The resistance comes from the shaft tolerances and the lubricant used. I like the Stewmac çap thingy but don't think the DeOxit is a strong enough solvent to get rid of that lubricant. Will try a couple of different methods and see what kind of results I get. If nothing else... It's a fun little experiment. :o)

Hey all... Does anyone know how to convert CTS or Bourns pots (or any other pots for that matter) so they turn super easily? Don't get me wrong... I don't mind buying the EVH (Bourns) Low Friction Pots. I'm ok with that. A few folks have played on a couple of my customs that have/had the EVH pots in them. One of my regular guys just dropped off an SG and a Tele. He made a point of telling me he REALLY like the feel and wants to convert all of his guitars (He's got a house full of them) to the low friction, torque resistance type. The dilemma is... I've got a small truckload of CTS, Bourns and ALPHA pots and, you know... I'd like to be able to USE them. I'm going to start using them on everything and if someone wants the more resistive feel they'll have to ask for them special. Any of y'all got any tips and/or tricks that might save me the time/expense of experimentation? Respecftully, Unc

It goes ever further beyond the 'tree' tree rule. Two boards cut from the same area of a tree can even sound different. Density... Q... Moisture... Hardness... Grain orientation... it just depends upon how 'micro' you wanna get.

Hey All... So... I've got this early '90s Heartfield Talon I. Neck is weirdly shaped and strangely radiused considering there isn't a trem on the planet that comes with a 17" radius on the bridge. The Floyd Rose II that's in it is on it's last leg and I'm not going to invest in a replacement. I sho' 'nuff have a bucket full of hardtail trems upgrades and modifications, however. I got to thinkin' I should just fill those cavities up and mount that sucker right up on top. I'm not going to futz around with shaping woods and such. There's gotta be a better way. Has anyone used a liquid epoxy type filler with less in the way of shrink characteristics? I seem to remember seeing some liquid acrylic type of stuff that could be poured into the sealed cavity. That would certainly provide a better, more efficient and solid fill than carved wood, glue and fillers. Anyone got any experience or thoughts on something like this? Regards... Unc

Hey there Groovy Guys and Groovy Gals... I do a lot of bending of my tops... Drop Top, Bent Top... Whatever they're being called these days... Differing techniques depending upon the species, grain, thickness, etc. I've got some beautifully spalted AND flamed maple one piece tops (stunning pieces of wood if you ask me) that are just hair over 1/4" in thickness. The problem is... You know... Spalted stuff has that 'rot' that goes through the grain and, well... When ya try to bend or shape it... Well... It just crumbles. The tops of most of the guitars I make are heavily sculpted. I could do the Tyler thing and just 'carve away' with the top already applied exposing the core wood, but I'd kinda like to figure out a way to get this stuff to go around a curve. Thus far, the only idea I've come up with that I think would work is to thickness it down to < 1/8" and apply it to some sort of plastic substrate and work it as though it were a veneer. I don't really like that idea much, however. Just because it goes against my thoughts of having nice thick tops. Any-a y'all got any ideas? Respectfully, Unc

@Mr. Wez V... Thanks for the reply, Senor. That's it? I was reading somewhere that they used some sort of 'hot wax mixed with oil' and it sounded real... Well... Top Secret or something. So it's just tru-oil and beeswax? I should've known. Oy! Thanks a ton, Senor.

Hey All... Do any of you all know anything about the techniques and materials used for those EB Music Man oil/wax finishes?

Hey All... I'm curious now. I did a mod on a guy's strat, ended up changing pots/caps, etc... He was happy with the way it turned out when he picked it up. Told him to run it through his rig and lemme know if he wanted to tweak it some more. This experience got me more curious so I read through the tutorials and found information CLOSE to what I was looking for. Through experimentation, my ear knows what the effects are but I'm wondering if there's an easier way to communicate this kind of thing to others in black and white as though the combinations of the components looked like a shelving EQ. Something like... Volume Pot Value + Tone Pot Value + 'x' Cap = Y Freq Cut Off Any ideas?