Jump to content

Voting for May 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - VOTE HERE!

avdekan

Established Member
  • Content Count

    76
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About avdekan

  • Rank
    Member
  1. I would just use more clamps. Using too few clamps makes you use a lot of pressure in order to get a good squeeze-out of glue, whilst potentially starving the area under the clamps and is not good for the clamp itself in the long run. I prefer using as many clamps as comfortably possible with moderate pressure. In the end its the power of numbers that does it.
  2. No problem. Traditional classical guitar bridges with scales from 640mm to 665mm all have the "same" straight saddle. Not being able to individually intonate strings is a problem in itself though...
  3. What type of glue did you use when you built it? If it was hide glue you can detach the top using heat, a mixture of hot water and spirit, and some patience. With carpenter's yellow/white glue (i.e. titebond) I wouldn't bother saving the top and just plane it off. If you have a set neck you might want to remove that too before planing. good luck.
  4. I don't like it too close to the bridge (too much "twang"). I say locate the bridgewise pole at 25.80697580112788mm (the square root of 666mm) from the bridge
  5. I think that unless the body design is radically different then the "traditional" centered mass approach, you can expect similar results from different body shapes using the same material and mass. Doing a 'x' shape body that's one meter long using 1x2" beams will have enough mass, but the flexibility of the design will probably cause a loss of sustain.
  6. Ipe? That fits the clues ...but no. I suppose this game sucks? SR last try: a weird subspecies of Bubinga?
  7. Pin router for the rough thicknessing (without the pin!). high angle (55 degrees or above) hand plane for the fine work. about the home made drum sander- benedetto's archtop book has a nice description of one in which the drum is fixed and the bed is adjustable using a hinge on one side and a lifting screw on the other. in order to change the thickness you tip the bed's angle. Fairly simple after you can figure out how to construct a perfectly square and stable mounting for the sanding drum...
  8. If you build the guitar for yourself, and you don't use tune controls, I think not putting one is the right thing to do. However, I would make the electronics cavity big enough to accommodate a theoretic tone potentiometer (at it's would-be place), so that if one day you will discover that you do want a tone control - you could easily add one just by drilling and rewiring.
  9. Cool! Melvyn's book on electric guitars is what started my journey into this addiction. I hope the informative and user friendly nature of his first book is present in this one as well. Will find out soon enough.
  10. The (happy) client who just picked up this guitar couldn't think of a proper name for it (her!!), so I will temporarily name it "the 5 Pounder" - after its weight. Sapele / figured Maple body. Sapele neck. Ebony fretboard, electronics cavity cover, recessed scratch-plate and knobs. Strandberg headless system: bridge and string locks. Gold MOP face and side dots. Bone nut. Schaller strap locks. BKP custom made alnico III humbuckers. Volume / Tone / 3 way pickup selector / Series-split-parallel mini switch for each pickup. Double action truss rod. More pics of the Finished guitar can be viewed here: http://www.facebook.com/B.M.handmade.guita...135576636474094 And the Building process photos are here: http://www.facebook.com/B.M.handmade.guita...135576636474094 Cheers.
  11. Ashtray Dip holder... put in more than one like me and its a chip AND dip holder ! I'll take a picture of the guitar served with guacamole (the 2k finish is Glasurit so it should handle it) You could also make millions by taking this idea a step further, selling microwave dinners in totally playable guitars. I don't do it only because I'm too lazy.
  12. I assembled the guitar and the grounding wire thread I drew beneath the string locks works perfectly fine. I still need to do the final setup, But even as it is, after playing and hearing it a bit, I am very pleased with the result. Words of praise are due to Ola Strandberg for his cleverly designed bridge and the quality of it's fabrication, and to Tim Mills from Bare Knuckle Pickups for yet another amazing pickup (custom made alnico III set). The entire build process can be viewed here: http://www.facebook.com/B.M.handmade.guita...135576636474094
  13. have you considered using banjo tuners or the Steinberger ones?
  14. Haven't done it yet, but I was thinking of running a wire between the screws that attach the string clamps, which the strings rest against. clarification: one thread of a braided wire under the string clamps.
×
×
  • Create New...