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n8rofwyo

Blues Tribute Group
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About n8rofwyo

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/22/1978

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  • Location
    Laramie, WY
  • Interests
    Woodworking and butchering classic rock
  1. Tuts been modified to show the index pin in action a little better. If you see anything else that needs to be addressed just let me know. Nate Robinson
  2. Fret boards top to bottom: Cocobolo, Bubinga, Bubinga, Lacewood.
  3. I will get a pic of the fretboard with template attached this weekend. The purpose of having the pin offset 1/4" from the blade is just so you can't screw up and forget to change your blade depth, thus hitting the pin with the saw blade. Granted that is a pretty remote mistake but moron moments happen! That being said I see why you would ask that question. The fretboard blank should be a few inches longer than what you want it to end up being. This way the 1/4" offset doesn't interfere with the overall length of your fretboard, as you just trim it up after it is slotted. If you see anything else that needs addressed just let me know. Nate Robinson
  4. Sure thing, DaveK. I'll get a few more pics in there. Nate Robinson
  5. DaveK, the tutorial I promised is ready for scrutiny by all. Title: Table Saw Shooting Board For Fret Slotting Date: October 20, 2005 Topic Starter: n8rofwyo Pictures: yes Complete: yes Link: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...ndpost&p=232746 Glad I could contribute, even if it is a small one. Nate Robinson.
  6. The first fretboard I slotted was done by hand with a guide and hobby saw. The results were that some slots were too deep, some too shallow, and the guide wavered on a few - making those slots skewed from the rest. I immediatly decided to find a better method. This is what I came up with. This is a "shooting board". It's purpose is to make perfectly parrallel repeated cuts. A frett board can be quickly and precisely cut when the shooting board is used in conjuction with Stewart MacDonalds Frett Cutting Table Saw Blade (item # 1557), and Stewart MacDonalds Dual Scale Frett Templates (item #'s 4915 - 4920). Materials Needed: 4' X 4' sheet of 1/2" MDF 1/2 lb. of 3/4" screws wood glue 150 grit sandpaper 1/16" drill bit (a cheap one) 4' - 2"x4" Tools Needed: Table saw Hand held drill Sanding block or handplane or jointer The shooting board should be a minimum of 16" in length and 38" in width. It needs to be at least 16" in length to get as much travel out of the runners as possible. More travel = more precision. A good rule of thumb is to make the shooting board just as long as the table of the table saw you will be using it on. The shooting board needs to be at least twice as long as the fingerboard you will be freting. This is to accomodate the fingerboard as well on the first cut (when most of the fingerboard is to the left of the saw blade), as on the last (when most of the fingerboard is on the right of the saw blade). The fence height is negligable as long as it is at least 1" tall. The purpose of the fence blocks is two fold. They ensure that the fence is perpendicular to the shooting board, in addition they also ensure that the fence is straight. For the fence blocks to accomplish their functions they must all be exactly the same size. The truss is there to simply hold the shooting board together since the saw blade will cut the board completely in two. The retaining block is purely a safety device. This block retains the blade when it gets close to your hands. Lastly are the runners. The runners are what keep the shooting board's fence perpendicular to the saw blade. So now we got dimensions for the the pieces needed to build the shooting board. Time to assemble it. The First step is to attach the fence blocks to the board. Be sure to countersink all screws used on the bottom of the board, as we want this thing to slide nice and easy - not snag on every damn screwhead. If the fence blocks are identical you should be able to line up the blocks with the edge of the shooting board base and have a perfect anchor for the fence. Next attach the fence to the fence blocks. Then add both the truss and retaining block. Now for the most important part of this whole thing. The runners. The runners MUST BE PARRALLEL TO EACH OTHER AS WELL AS THE SAW BLADE!!! The runners should be 1/64" thinner than the miter guides in the table saw. To achieve that dimension, I cut the runner material to the exact size of the miter slot and hit it with a sanding block, hand plane, or jointer to shave that last bit off the runner to make if fit just right. The runners can be made of mdf or uhmw, but if mdf is used be sure to seal them with shellac or similar finish to help prevent swelling. I prefer to dado the runners into the base of the shooting board rather than just screwing them on. I have screwed runners onto other jigs just to have them shift a little and bind in the miter slots. I cut the dado into the bottom of the shooting board only after I have completed the runners. That way the fit is nice and tight. I then glue and screw the runners into the dados. Last thing to finish the shooting board is to set it in the miterslots of the table saw and run a standard 1/16" or 1/8" saw blade all the way through the board. There is no reason for the blade height to be any more than 3/4". Now the shooting board is complete, time to set it up for frett slotting. An index pin needs to be installed into the fence to make the dual scale fretting template work correctly. The indexing pin is nothing more than a 1/16" drill bit that has been clipped to be around 3/8" long. Be sure to drill the hole for the indexing pin before clipping the drill bit. The pin should be 1/4" to the right of the saw kerf and centered 5/16" above the base of the shooting board. The purpose of having the pin offset 1/4" from the blade is just so you can't screw up and forget to change your blade depth, thus hitting the pin with the saw blade. Granted that is a pretty remote mistake but moron moments happen! You will also want to make sure that the fingerboard blank is a few inches longer than necessary so you can trim it up after you have it slotted. From here its easy. Take a standard 1/4" thick fretboard blank that has not been tappered or radiused and attach the dual scale fretting template to it via double stick carpet tape. I push the fretboard up against the fence and then hold the template to the fence as I push it down onto the fretboard. You then hold the fretboard with template installed up to the indexing pin and the pin will lock into the slots in the template. Push the shooting board forward to make the cut, pull it back, move the template to the next slot, re-engage the index pin and do over and over again until all your fret slots are cut. These four fretboards took approx. 20 minutes to cut. That beats the heck out of spending an hour and a half on one that ended up skewed anyway! Good luck, and see ya in the sandbox. Nate Robinson
  7. That is a very good point. Would you mind giving a brief description of how you begin your "offset center"?
  8. Well, I have made three necks and fretted two. The first sucked so bad I plan on burning it - along with the body (way to heavy). That fret job was done with a brass/poly hammer and my inexperience became evident pretty quick. The second time I made a neck it went much smoother. The only difference between the two was that I got the stewmac blade, made a shooting board to run the fingerboard, and used a press to install the frets. Night and day difference as far as the fretting goes, but the neck itself was done in the same manner. A tuned spokeshave, scrapers and sand paper. Someone mentioned in another thread that the centerline defines the carve - that is the golden rule of carving the neck. If you don't break the centerline, you don't expose the truss rod channel. It really is that simple. There is a lot of voodoo involved with even the thought process of creating a neck. In my mind though, it really just comes down to geometry: 1. The strings have to have an equidistant accending spacing from the nut to the bridge (forming an elongated trapezoid). 2. The strings need to stay roughly the same distance from the fret board from the bridge to the nut. Several was of skinning a cat, same holds true for this. 3. The anlge of the headsock needs to be sufficient to hold the strings in the nut without allowing them to move at will (barring locking nut of course) 10 degrees is my preferance for 3x3 . 4 Possibly an angle on the heel of the neck (depending on if you need neck angle for your configuration AND if you subscribe to the idea of angling the neck vs. the pocket for the desired relief). 5. The neck must be wide enough at the nut to accomadate the string spacing you want. 6. The neck must be wide enough at the heel to accomodate the spacing of the bridge while still leaving the same distance from the string to the edge of the finger board to the the E,e strings To me those are the simplified requirments for making a neck, everything beyond that is personal preference - which is what making your own neck is about anyway. However, I am not a pro. I don't consider myself good enough to be telling anyone what to do. This is simply the thought process that I use when building my necks. BTW, if you fellas that have more experience would like to poke holes in this - feel free. I'm here to learn. Nate Robinson
  9. Minwax has a spar varnish in the rattle cans. I used it on a neck a year ago, and I believe I got it from the local lumber yard( not a national chain I'm sorry to say - Bloedorn Lumber). You may be able to have your local hardware store order you a case or so. I found it to be fast drying, easy to recoat, seems to hold a shine, and only had to wait a week to buff it out. It does add a slight tint of yellow though, so beware. All in all pretty good stuff IMO. Nate Robinson
  10. Hi, my name is Nate Robinson. I have limited experience in guitar building, as I have created only one guitar from scratch - a strat copy that was nice to look at but an abomination to play. I am 25, married, and co-own a contracting business in Wyoming. I have played guitar for 8 years with no lessons - believe me it shows!!! I decided to build a guitar instead of paying the money for the one I wanted. I initially thought I might save some money going about it this way. I guess that shows that "young and dumb" is a relevant saying, right? My experience is almost solely in woodworking, and I believe that jigs and templates are acts of god. Here's a pic of my only guitar with myself and it's owner - the best man at my wedding. He's holding the guitar.
  11. I signed up on this forum as an amatuer, on a amatuer forum. So I deserve to be called an idiot for assuming that the fret markers were filled in slots, not for a grainy picture. I think I would have reacted the same way if someone who didn't know better had said that all my hard work came from a factory. Past that maybe the best solution is to vote and leave it at that, leave the comments in the in progress threads. If I had followed Raga's in progress thread I wouldn't have said anything so senseless. So shame on me for not doing my homework. The only reason I gave any opinion at all in the vote was to show my appreciation of all the good work done on these instruments. Nate Robinson
  12. Raqa, I didn't mean any insult by asking why you didn't make your own neck. And it is obviously not against the rules, it's just that your craftsmanship apears to be superb on the body. It just struck me that seeing filled in frets on such a beautiful instrument was sad in a way. Nate Robinson
  13. Matt, an omnipotent silhoute no doubt, and beautifull workmanship from what I can see. I especially appreciate the natural finish accompanied by such a mathMATTical body contour - balances out real smooth. Raqa, that headstock is absolutely amazing, it reflects the body to perfection. But with your skill at woodworking, why not do your own neck too. The only turn off was not using a matching grain/finish on the control cavity. Rhoads, an absolutely gorgeous finish. I can't help but admire the classic tele with a pleasant - though unexpected - twist. Toddler, your interpretation of a classic design is fantastic. That coupled with your choice of cap and laminates, along with a seamingly flawless finish has gained my vote this month. All of you are among the elite of this forum , and I hope to gain more incites - both in design and technical use - from all of you this year. Nate Robinson
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