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eddiewarlock

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eddiewarlock last won the day on January 2 2014

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About eddiewarlock

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 03/14/1980

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  • Location
    Seville, Spain, but i am from Venezuela
  1. kind of a necrobump but, could you please send me that Suhr plan? Thanks!
  2. OK, i removed the fretboard about 2 hours ago. I inmediatly noticed it was the neck that twisted. The fretboard is curved in a backbow and seems uniform on both sides. I'll let it sit and check if it moves any further. Thanks everybody for your replies
  3. sounds like the way to go Scott. This is the first time this happens to me. I really don't know what it is. I have been building guitars since 2002, and i don't know if seasons has anything to do with this. Up until 2013 i lived in Venezuela, neverending summer, and where i lived, not really humid. Here in southern Spain, doesn't rain much for most of the year, and it's mostly warm, but there are seasons...
  4. i use heat and an exacto knife, which is kinda the same as using a flat palette knife. but for some reason, they always curve upwards...
  5. well, hard to tell, in my experience. Everytime i've removed a fretboard, it ends up curved upwards. Like in an upbow. How long would you let it sit before taking a decision?
  6. I took pictures, but it's hard to see in those pictures. It's not an extreme warp, but it is there, and makes the guitar unplayable, at least to me.
  7. So i am building this neck thru guitar, all sapele, 3 piece sapele neck, quartersawn. Quartersawn ebony fretboard, with sharkfin inlays and ivoroid binding. I have been building this guitar the last 2 years. Second fretboard i use. First one was removed because the inlays sucked. The guitar has always been inside my house and has been primed with polyurethane since march 2014. I want to save the fretboard because the inlay set was damn expensive, but i have read that in many cases, warped necks are caused by fretboards. What is your opinion? save or not to save?
  8. I kinda understand you, John, i was the same when i lived in Venezuela, but because the wood choices were limited to what grew in the country and wasn't forbidden to use ( like all the mahogany and spanish cedar species) I was tempted to use caribbean pine for a neck, because i wanted something that looked like maple... But when you have available mahogany, maple, wenge, jatoba, ash, alder, etc etc etc etc, why would i even bother? It's a waste of wood, time, money and resources.
  9. I have to agree with Luis...why do you always go thru this headache? I don't know you, but it seems like a waste of money and wood. If you don't want a bright tone, go for mahogany, or even sapelli. Both are cheap enough If not limba...
  10. i wouldn't chuck that guitar in the bin If you manage to break the joint, it's something else you have learnt. you can, afterwards reset the neck angle.
  11. and to break a glue joint all you need is steam and a putty knife...
  12. for kahler you need some neck angle, not too much. Maybe with the stud mount kahler it can still work. What's your neck angle?
  13. damn...what are the options??? the one i will build will have a wraparound bridge, so water will get there...maybe if i use clay?
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