Gigabyte

As requested...... It's a little jagged looking because I just hit it with the bevel effect.......

Here's some red ones.... For some reason photoshop didn't do the burst as evenly as I would have liked but you get the picture I would have to agree though, I don't think you will be able to pull off a carve like that with the top wood being so thin (1/4?). When I photochopped it I didn't see the other pic of the the body from the side revealing the thickness of the top wood. If you think you can pull it off I I'd say go for it, just be carefull not to sand thru......

Just screwing around in photoshop........... Didn't finish the neck area........

Looking at the pics I see a couple of issues or design flaws. 1) The neck and neck pocket..... It looks like the neck is sitting too far in the neck pocket (pocket is too big, not too small). Look at a 24 fret PRS; it's only sitting in the pocket to about the 22nd fret. Well, the visible part anyway (and that's the problem I see). What you're missing is one of two things: 2) Either you need to make a neck heal so the neck will have something to bolt up to (but you've already cut off what would be the neck heal); See my PRS style guitar, not as pleasing to the eye as a real PRS in regard to the neck mounting but a simple solution for adapting a preexisting neck and it doesn't get in the way any more than a real PRS's bulky neck. OR: 3) Alternatively you could modify (extend) the neck so it will extends under the neck pickup which doesn't exist (yet ) . For an example of this look at a Saga HT-10 guitar kit neck. You can see that they just took a standard bolt-on neck and added a piece to the back of it so it would work like a PRS neck. Just for reference here's a page with a bunch of pics of an HT-10 kit (similar in design to a PRS) which should give you an idea as to how a PRS bolt-on neck and neck pocket are set up http://www.universaljems.com/cart/ht10/ht10.htm . The better option would be to make a new neck with the extra part at the bottom as one continuous piece.... If you decided to redo the neck you might be able to pull the fret board back up with a clothing iron and some steam and reuse it........ Anyway, the next thing: 4) With the neck being so far in the pocket, those last few frets are useless. That means the neck needs to come out a little bit (to about the 22 fret on the horn side) BUT that causes a new problem! Moving the neck up also causes the bridge to come up (gotta keep the scale length correct) which might just happen to be right were you bridge pickup cavity is currently located! 5)One last thing..... If you decide to just leave the neck where it is, one thing might help some. Make the scoop on the inside of the bottom horn bigger. It's literally almost a half circle on a PRS (trademark "scoop")...almost like you could sit a baseball in the scoop and it would fit perfect....... I would do a little more research and start over completely but that's just the opinion of a guy that's only made 2 guitars so far.......... Take it with a grain of salt, weigh you options and go from there................ If you do decide to start over and don't want to make a regular neck heal like mine or add onto the neck, I would recommend looking at Maiden69's PRS style 7 string; it has a nice AANJ, similar to a Carvin........ Fred

Thanks for the info. That sure does help

Alright, new question..... I've looked high and low for a used 60 watts @ 4 ohm cab and can't find one anywhere. HOWEVER, it seems that 120 watt - 4 ohm cabs are falling out of the sky........ What negative effect would I get running a 60 watt head with a 120 watt cab (both being 4 ohms)? Will I still get the same volume and clarity as if I were running a 60 watt cab? If that doesn't work I'll wait a bit to see if I can find a 60 watt cab.... If not, I'll have to just get rid of this head and find a 120 watt'r............... Thanks for the input............

Just rewired it and it works just fine now. Wonder what it was......beats me...... Thanks for the input guys...... It sure does sound purdy! Looks pretty good too if I do say so myself

Yes, I did that as well. Maybe I just didn't get good contact somewhere. I'm going to start over and see what happens............

To tell the truth, I went thru the trouble of making that template just so I could get the slope at the top right. I didn't use it for anything else because I was only modifying my existing Ibanez GAX neck. I could give you the measurement off of that's but that probably not what you're looking for.......

Thanks for replying. The grounds I have going to the volume pot are the bridge ground, the grounds from the 2 pickup wires (green and bare wires), one from the side of the tone pot and the one going to the output jack. Did I miss one somewhere? Maybe I didn't solder one of them good enough.......

It's about 3/4 thick..... A real PRS is about 1/2 inch though.............

Well, I've been screwing with these darn Duncan designed pickups (HB103-B & N);trying to put them in my PRS clone project. I've been playing with them for a couple of hours now and just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. What I have is a volume, a push-pot tone/coil tap, and a 3 way switch. Anyway, the pickups are five wires and I converted them to 3 (white +red, green + bare wire, and the black). I hook the blacks to the 3 way, the gr./bare to the back of the volume pot (grounded), and the red/white to the coil tap. Everything works perfect; coil tap works, tone works and everything. BUT, the friggin volume is acting like the tone. I even tried completely disconnecting the tone and it still did the same thing (no caps anywhere). I also completely switched pots and tried it without the coil tap (just a regular 1 volume, 1 tone and 3 way setup with 2 humbuckers) and it still did the same thing.... Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? I'm tired of fooling with it and I could use some help.... BTW, I'm basically wiring it like a JS100............. except with no hi-pass filter. Here's a diagram of a JS100 for reference: http://www.ibanez.com/wiring/wire.asp?y=2004&w=JS100 Thanks for any help you can give me....... Fred

Cool, thanks for the confirmation..... Glad to see they work.......

OK, that makes sense. I think I understand how it works now..... (watts and ohms vs. cabs, etc...) Thanks for the help....

Thanks for the help guys. Glad to hear my cheapy head will do. I do have more question now though..... 1. If I can run 2 cabinets at 60 watts each and 8 oms each what would happen if I ran a "Y" jack into one cabinet? Would I use a 120 watt cabinet (if so, how many ohms?)? Would it make 120 Watts (optimally) running it like this or am I not understanding or would that not even work? I'm not asking this because I want to get louder.... I'm asking because I'm mix-matching stuff and I'm going to find the best priced cabinet I can find that will work with my head so I'm just trying to understand what options I have....... 2. In the even I can't find a cabinet with 4 ohms, would something higher be compatible? What effect will having higher ohms have? Would something blow out (ie: speakers or even the head)? 3. For a half stack, what if I can only find, say a 75 watt cabinet? Would that do or would the head be too weak to push it, which in turn would affect the sound quality? Again, looking for options just incase I absolute can't find a used 60watt cab. Maybe I just think too much and over complicate .......but thanks for the help.....