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Metalhead28

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About Metalhead28

  • Rank
    GOTM April 2010
  • Birthday 05/26/1976

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  • Location
    Kentucky
  1. I do something similar to the above staple idea, but I use little nails. I tap them in a little and then snip them off leaving a tiny nib. I use them for tops, body wings and fretboards.
  2. Same here, just drill a couple of holes to accomodate it.
  3. Thanks guys. I'm actually pretty lucky in that I expect to make a full recovery. Might have a little limp, but that won't slow me down too much.
  4. Got too busy to make it around here for quite a long time, but now I'm sitting in bed recovering from a really frustrating motorcycle accident, facing a few more months off my feet - and I had to find something else to do, and I remembered Project Guitar....duh. I'm hoping I can get a nice little fix here until I can get back into the workshop myself. What did I miss, lol
  5. It's definitely a risk. I use a drum sander now, but I used to have pretty good luck dampening the wood before sending it through the planer.
  6. I would agree that it's not usually as pronounced as what many people seem to think - but I think the impact of different woods is definitely there.
  7. It was really no trouble, just had to pick up a couple of special sized bits. It even came with a nice template for lining everything up. I really dig it, and if I wasn't such a bar user I'd surely try one myself. Super comfortable, and the tone is certainly there. I recommend it highly.
  8. Good for you man! I remember you posting that one, and I still think it's a killer design.
  9. "Diathesis" (named for the Band of its soon to be owner) 25.5" scale Wenge / mahogany 5 piece neck thru Mahogany body wings Claro walnut top & headstock cap Ziricote fretboard 10-14 compound radius Ivoroid binding 27 Stainless steel medium jumbo frets Sperzel locking tuners Graphtech nut Schaller Hannes bridge Bareknuckle "Nailbomb" bridge Bareknuckle "Trilogy" neck Master volume / master tone 5 way super switch (Neck / Neck+Bridge / Neck+Bridge split / Bridge split / Bridge) Dyed maple TR cover with magnetic attachment
  10. Machine one face of the board flat on the jointer before you rip your laminate from it - then run it through a planer. It's nice to have a perfectly flat face on the fence when you rip it as well.
  11. I thought I was saving money when I switched from LMII to Allied Lutherie at 15 bucks a pop. I suppose I will have to try these now. Can many of you guys speak for their quality?
  12. I use a drum sander now, but before I had one I would dampen the wood before sending it through for very light passes. Just wipe it with a damp rag and give it a minute to soak in. It usually helps a lot.
  13. You're the only one taking the dialog to a lower level, friend - what with these raging admonitions of yours every time someone seems to disagree.... I agree with SamC and Wez, worrying that pencil lines are not accurate enough would suggest that my manufacturing techniques were more accuarate than pencil lines. I wish. For what it's worth, I would never use a piece of hardware that demanded my calculations and construction be more accurate than what I can draw with pencil lines - and I'm not sure such hardware even exists. For example, the TOM bridge in your reference image above will allow your neck angle to vary widely and still work just fine. We're not talking pencil line thicknesses here, were talking a couple of degrees.
  14. Hey guys! I just finished up something a little different (for me), GOTM seems like a good place to share it. I call the body style an "SS", so I'll go with that. 25.5" scale Black limba body Wenge / Mahogany 5 piece neck Flamed maple drop top Ebony fretboard 24 medium stainless steel frets 10-16" compound radius Gotoh floyd rose with large brass sustain block, locked down for diving only Seymour Duncan Custom & Jazz pickups Master volume & tone, treble bleed, coil splits, 3 way toggle Hipshot locking tuners Nitro finish with oiled neck
  15. Me too. I used to think thin necks were where it's at for some odd reason. I wanted to shred and I think I just heard everybody talk about thin necks and shred at the same time so I thought there was something to it. I've seen a lot of people say thin necks are "faster" or whatever. I don't even know what that means.....? Anyway, I used to look for guitars with the thinnest necks and never even really thought about how it was making my hand feel. When I finally got over that and graduated to bigger necks, I wondered what the hell I was thinking for all those years. My hands have been a lot happier too. So I definitely cringe at the thought of a really thin neck, and I often think people who are after ultra thin necks are possibly falling victim to hype rather than listening to what their hands are telling them. However, it's not the feel of the neck that worries me the most....it's the thought of how it's going to sound with a stainless steel fretboard and an insignificant amount of wood.
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