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esppse

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About esppse

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  1. Hello, Here's my situation. I was shaping the headstock from a blank and the router took too much off the tip of the headstock. It is pointed so I need to glue 2 pieces of maple to the left and right side of the headstock point. 1st attempt: I cut the piece of maple to approximate size, then used a disc sander to attempt to get it to 1/8 thickness. However, the wood was bending and warping during the sanding. Is that because of the heat? I then sanded by hand, got it flat, and glued it. I cleaned up the squeeze my spraying water onto the bare glue joint. 12 hours later, I put the template on and tried to route it to its final shape, but the piece flung off. Actually broke off as i was routing around its corner. Was that the water on the wood, or too little time to glue, or the direction of routing. 2nd attempt: I sanded another piece to size and repeated the same steps, except i waited 24 hours. This time, I routed very slowly. I got it to shape, but the wood was black on the side from the router heat maybe, and the joint was coming loose. Was that definitely the router heat that caused it to melt the glue? There was only 1/8 inch between the router bit and the glue joint. Or was that because I sprayed water again to wipe off the glue squeeze. 3rd attempt: Instead of trying to route to the final shape, I decided to craft a piece if maple that would be perfect to size. I didn't use power tools to sand it, instead I used the Stewmac Safe T planer to get it to 1/8. I scored the joint sides with a razor so the glue would stick better. This time, I didn't use water to wipe the squeeze, just a paper towel. And this seems to work now. I then sanded the surfaces to flush it with the rest of the headstock. Now I am gluing the piece to the right, and the Safe T planer actually bent the piece a bit too, but not too bad, I sanded and glued it and will flush it tomorrow. Can anyone verify the cause of the 2 attempt failures? And do you guys have trouble with wood warping while using a belt sander to get a final thickness of 1/8 inch on a small piece of wood? Thank you
  2. Fixing nubs in router templates

    Oh wow thanks for clearing that up! I'll check out my epoxy against other ones
  3. Fixing nubs in router templates

    The result was fantastic. Here's what happened. I first user clear epoxy for all 3 of my messed up templates. It was my first time actually using epoxy. It was still gummy after the first day, so I waited a second. Then I filed them smooth, however 1 of the fills came out. That was maybe because I didn't mix it well enough or more than 5 minutes passed by the time I got to that last fill. What I did for that last one was use Stewmac 20 super glue, then accelerator, another layer, etc... that dried in like 1 minute. I filed that down and it came out harder than the epoxy and worked better for me. I haven't routed with the fixed templates yet, so I don't know how the fixed areas would deal with the friction heat from the router bearing Is JB Clearweld supposed to cure rock hard or be still somewhat gummy after a couple days? I might have mixed up the mixing.
  4. Fixing nubs in router templates

    Ah wonderful idea, I shall go forth with the epoxy. Thank you for your help.
  5. Hey I accidentally routed a bit off of my acrylic pickup template. What is the best way to fix it so it is usable again? Should I use CA glue and fill and level it? Thanks
  6. Oh wonderful, I'll proceed with the build. Thank you very much
  7. Hey, Here is the neck joint dimensions of a design of mine, though I was curious if someone with more experience than me can chime in here. I am planning am AANJ joint here, the pictures are top and player side view. The concern is that the neck pickup is right against the neck, and there will be no "wall" between the end of the neck and the neck pickup. Will this be stable enough? https://ibb.co/dgZQna https://ibb.co/b0VbtF Thanks for looking
  8. wait how do i find out which are the wiper connections?
  9. Hello again, I managed to desolder the pot from the behringer pedal and extended its leads so it could fit on the pickguard. The on off is being controlled by a flip switch now. however i am having trouble mounting it because it doesnt have a screwing thingy on the pot. Under the pot it says B100k. The pedal's pot has 6 leads. 4 are linked (i think. when i use the multimeter, those 4 show numbers on the meter when they touch together.), 1 goes to ground, and 1 goes to its own thing. Is this a dual gang pot? (sorry for the bad phone quality) http://imageshack.us...1/wp000433.jpg/ http://imageshack.us.../wp000431u.jpg/ http://imageshack.us...9/wp000427.jpg/ I just bought one of these i thought i could replace it with. http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cc17de7fd How would i replace that pot with the one i just bought? Please help me guys! Thanks -Henry
  10. Ah that's a dillema. I think I have a solution. Tell me it you Think this is ok. I'll use a separate dpdt for the true bypass on off. And ill desolder one of those pots to extend its leads and mount that pot directly on the pickguard. Right?
  11. i just realized a big problem with the on off scenario. when i unplug the cable, the led indicator is still on and wont turn off unless the button on the pedal circuit is pushed. this will consume the battery after a day right? and when i replace the battery, i have to open the whole pickguard where the circuit is stored to press the button to activate the circuit. (because it gets deactivated when the battery is pulled out.) should i remove the button from the circuit board and solder the dpdt to where is was?
  12. thanks for your help, but there really is nothing i can do for the first scenario? there has to be a way! :'(
  13. Im trying to put a behringer spectrum pedal into my guitar. I want to use this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=023-120&utm_source=googleps for two things. First, i want to use the potentiometer to control one of these pots. http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4240/pict6978.jpg http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2618/pict6977.jpg Second, i want to use the push pull to control the on and off of this pedal http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/631/pict6974.jpg http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6012/pict6971e.jpg Does anyone know how to solder the pot so that it can control this pedal in this way? Thanks! -Henry
  14. ok thanks i guess ill leave it like this, i still gotta figure out a way to tame the hum on this guitar, when i touch metal it stops humming. is that a ground problem? i checked all my grounds are soldered right
  15. oh wow, thats a quite a confusing circuit. i examined it but that cant really be done with 1 DPDT right? thats all the room i have in this tiny electronics cavity for since the 9v is takes up quite some space and only 1 hole left for the pot. btw, instead of this diagram i used http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_dpdt_tb_gi.pdf do you think trying this would have any effect? http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_dpdt_tb.pdf
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