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Batfink

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About Batfink

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 04/19/1964

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  • Location
    England
  1. OK Neil, seeing as you asked: 1)...if you have the Stew Mac routing template - chuck it in the bin. I don't know who came up with that but chances are they had modifying a standard Strat in mind, it's fiddly, confusing, not very well thought out and urges you to take more wood out than you need to. 2)...buy a Kahler if you play like a pansy. If you're used to a Floyd a Kahler gives the same feel as deleted by mod OK, from the image you posted it would sort of work but i'd not make the ledge quite as wide as you can get the base plate hitting it before the fine tuners are at their full depth so it'll try to pull the base plate away from the studs. You can champher this transition to help ease the situation or as i said earlier, just start the deeper route a little closer to the studs but leave around 1/8" between the edge of the stud and the new depth. As for having the whole route at the same depth - not the best idea and will depend on exactly how deep you need to be. Having the studs half way up their travel isn't ideal as you've indicated. The main thing you need to consider depth wise is the height your neck sits from the body, obviously if you have the chance to reduce the heel depth then you have the chance to reduce the depth of your floyd route. If you have anything specific send me a PM on the UKGB forum as i rarely log into the mail address that PG is connected to.
  2. I'm with you, i never used them so invariably don't put one on unless the guy ask's for one.
  3. Well, i don't know about the guitar version but every bass player i've met who has the bass version (which they've been making for years) say it's the absolute dogs nuts and most have retired any basses that don't have one.
  4. I don't like turbo fan compressors one little bit and i've never seen anyone in the automotive trade ever touch one with a 10 foot pole. For that sort of coin i'd lean more towards a decent gun like a Devilbiis Sri or a Sata Minijet and a normal compressor, it'll be a lot more versitile and give you better results in the long run. Oh, and as for painting your house i'd follow Maggotbrain's advice and do it the normal way, it'd be much quicker. And one last thing, if you do decide on buying a pro spec gun do not, in any circumstances, put household paint through it. The pigments and carriers are no where near as refined as 'proper' paint and it'll do the gun no favours at all.
  5. I'll chuck in my feelings here: Firstly what are you planning to do with the top bearing bit ? I mainly use mine for the final finishing of cavities so this makes the shorter bit the sensible choice for me as some of the cavities are barely an inch deep if that. If you are thinking of using the bit for the final shaping bodies against a template then the deeper bit is the obvious choice. To be honest i've got a 1/2" and an 1" one and if you can afford it i'd say get both - both have their uses and merits. As for the drawknife. I have no experience with one as stuff like that scares the **** out of me but, if you're confident in it's use then why not. You probably won't be able to be so precise with it as oppossed to a spokeshave but you could get pretty damn near to your target and then change to rasp's and abrasives which is what i do using a spokeshave anyway. Oh, just for info i only have a flat soled spokeshave, with a round sole i may negate some of the final shaping i do with rasp and paper but chances are you'll still have to break the stuff out at some point. Remember, there's no 'one' way to do things when it comes to stuff like this and different methods work for different people.
  6. Yep old thread indeed but, to put you right, the confusion is because what American's call Sycamore is a completely different species of tree to what we call Sycamore.
  7. A git of a job and a chance of real disaster if you've never done any inlaying. Suggestion: Get some scrap and have a few attempts at trying to inlay what you want to do. As a rule inlaying into a built neck will almost always call for the frets to be pulled out so something else to consider if you've never done that before either.
  8. Melvyn nor his publishers have made this available as an ebook but you can dowload THIS as an ebook which most people rate as highly.
  9. Hmmm....seems a bit quiet after last month's landslide of entries so i'll put this up for the shredders amoungst you....you may want to turn your monitor's brightness down for this one ! Nocturne NC1-KD Body: Alder 2pc Neck: 3pc rock maple / R2 nut Fingerboad: Birdseye Inlay: Tahitian pearl Finish: Yellow metalflake in nitro Hardware: Schaller all the way Pickups: Specially wound by Steve Blucher at Dimarzio for the owner Kevin Dillard And the owner with his new toy: Jem
  10. I use a 1/4" surface trimmer With wings ! - mighty big fun and gets it done fast and smooth. Jem
  11. I have reasonably little experience with flake but have just completed my second 'flaked' guitar so i offer this only from my experience and readings. Firstly i'm assuming that you are looking for a full (or virtually full) coverage of flake or are you looking for a 'dusting' (some flake) finish ?... just clarify as your post says "purple with metalflakes". If you are looking to have full coverage then the base colour will only effect the reflectiveness of the flake - it will not change it's reflective colour as such....if you wanted a mixture of purple and blue you could mix some purple and blue flake together or perhaps shoot alternate layers of purple and blue again depending on the coverage you're looking for. I suppose you could try a light blue candy over purple flake to see if that gave you the look you're after....just an idea, i've not tried it myself. Obviously if you're looking to have just 'some' flake then the base coat would be highly visable. I must admit that i've not found a website that really gives too much information - i suppose the combinations are so endless that it's too subjective. Oh, and yes - base coat, mid clear with flake and then lots of clear to 'bury' the flake and give an even surface. Jem PS: Next time post this in the 'Tech' area as oppossed to the 'Tutorial' area - you'll get a much better response.
  12. Yes....not that i've ever tried (enamel's really not an instrument finish) but i think the nitro will try to burn into the enamel and you'll be left with a gooey mess. Jem
  13. Well, i've already shown this in the finished section but a few of the guys from the UK guitar builders forum recon i should make this my maiden GOTM entry so here we go: (i pressume i'm allowed to do this ?) Nocturne NC1 - Here's the specs: Body: One peice flamed sycamore Neck: Three peice laminated maple, 25.5" scale over 26 frets, ebony board with Dangermouse cartoon inlays, high wide fret wire, flame maple headplate, Wilkinson tuners, magnetic TRC Hardware: Floyd Rose II with an R2 nut, aluminium checkerplate covers Electrics: GFS crunchy PAF and overwound single, single volume, three way blade switch, upsidedown rim mounted strat jack Finish: black 'n back then Chestnut products blue dye doctored a bit to make it a bit greener and then all wraped up in around 30 coats of nitro Thanks for looking, Jem
  14. Just by chucking 20 odd coats of clear over it will enhance the figure but as people have mentioned, it depends how much you want to pop it out. You could as mentioned add a little amber'ish colour to your clear which would bring it out and subtle it down a bit. As usual, prat around with scrap first until you find something you like. Jem
  15. There's a thread up above you that lists a lot of European suppliers: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=19579 Jem
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