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1guitarslinger

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About 1guitarslinger

  • Birthday 05/18/1963

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    Donate to the American Red Cross for hurricane victims at Specialty Guitars.

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  1. You guys helped me quite a bit right there. Thanks for the responses. And Mick, I will search for that thread. Thank you.
  2. I'm wanting to do up a Tele swamp ash body quickly, and want it to be as glossy as possible, yet do it fast with one of these. Now before anyone goes off about searching etc. I just need some quick advice. 1. Which one would be best, tung or Tru-oil? 2. Best way to apply it? 3. Should I fill first? 4. Best way to buff it out Any and all tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  3. Any opinions/observations on the differnces in tone and sustain between ebony and rosewood bridge bases for tuneomatics on electric arch tops? Thanks.
  4. Duncan 59 Model SH-1 Humbucker un-potted at Specialty Guitars
  5. True for the Duncan Antiquities...
  6. LK is right! I wasn't thinking it through. My apologies for confusing the issue. I am way too busy at this time, and should be leaving these things for people who have the where-with-all to pay full attention to them! Right on again LK. Happy Holidays!
  7. You're welcome. It might be tough to find one that has the right size button, and is not too long under the pickguard for the body route. If I get it right, you are wanting to be able to push the button off and on really quickly, and go" na na na na na na..." right? It might actually be more difficult to do that really fast with a push button than a toggle, but I don't really know.
  8. Actually, "normally closed" momentary means when nothing is being done to it, it is "closed" which means making contact or, "on". It would go "open" or "off", when the button was pushed. Then "close" or turn "on" when you let go of the button. "Closed" means making contact, and "open" means not making contact. You would want a normally closed, momentary SPST for your "kill switch" unless you wanted the guitar to make no sound unless you were depressing the button. You would use a "normally open" switch for a door bell.
  9. Southpa, quite a bit of what you have posted is correct, however, I must respectfully correct some of your information. Actually, if the humming stops when you touch the strings, it is a almost a sure sign that the bridge IS grounded. Your body is adding additional grounded shielding to the circuit when you touch the grounded strings. Your body would not be providing the path to ground unless you were also touching something that was grounded to the circuit when you touched the strings. If the humming does not change, or gets worse when you touch the strings, that is sign that there is a grounding issue with the bridge. Humming when you are not touching the strings, may or may not be the sign of a problem. Many guitar/pickup/amp/house wiring combinations hum more than others with the guitar turned up, and not touching the strings, when the shielding and wiring are just fine. Interestingly Fender Noiseless Strat pickups are very bad about this, even on a good day. But, as the majority of us tend to touch the strings when we are playing, this is really not an issue. Actually it IS because the bridge is grounded (many other factors could apply as well) that you will get shocked if you touch something else that has a difference of potential to your guitar and amp's ground. If the polarity is incorrect between your amp and your PA system, this can cause you to get shocked when you touch something grounded on your guitar, and something metal like a microphone at the same time. Many of us know that wonderful feeling of being shocked on the lips while playing and going up to sing through an SM58, when this difference in ground exists between our amp and the PA.
  10. If I am understanding what you are talking about, then it is just fine for the "axels" (pivots?) to touch. They are both grounded, so it's no different than 2 grounded parts of the same switch touching each other. As long as they don't interfere with each other mechanically, and as long as no contacts are touching each other or ground, it should be fine. Make certain that both switch frames are properly grounded. There is part of me that wants to know what you are doing with two 5 way super switches, and another part of me that feels it's best that I don't know. ;-)
  11. The S1 switch is not just a push/pull pot. And to my knowledge, on all Fender models, is used in conjunction with a 5 way super switch. http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...0101200APg2.pdf You can not use just your factory switch to do what you want to do.
  12. Out of phase would explain the middle position, but not the neck. Double check all of your wiring, and if you have an ohm meter (multimeter) check the resistance of your neck pickup and make sure it's ok.
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