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Marzocchi705

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About Marzocchi705

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  • Birthday 06/17/1989

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    Elgin, Scotland
  1. The spacing on my ibanez 7 is 1" roughly center to center. But it will depend on your specific tuners how close you can go. Scale length realy has nothing to do with headstock length. Get the old pencil and paper out and do a drawing, or print off scale pictures of headstocks from the net, you may have to resize the picture, but just use the nut width as a start and scale the pic up so that it is correct, the rest will be too. (if that sounds vauge and mkes n sense, its probibly because its 5am here) All you need to do is a little drawing. Itl all become pretty clear what you like. I know i like my own headstocks to be 3 a side or 4+3 so i can make them quite short, im hoping this will balance the guitars nicley when there done. I used quite light peices of wood for the bodys ad i cant stand neck heavy guitars (i will make an exeption for my paul tho )
  2. how long do you want it? realy its up to you. As long as you can fit all your machine heads on there and have a decent string path your fine. Do some drawings and see what you come up with. Look at other guitars you like for a referance point.
  3. Ive heard coffee beans being used befor. If you search the forum for Relicing you will come across lots of information. Good luck and post pics when your done!
  4. rule off thumb is to try and keep the strig path as straigt as possible.
  5. My band have just been together for about 6weeks now, we didnt even have a bass player till last week too. We dont have a CD yet but were working on a extended EP. We just played our first ever gig on friday night and the crowd seemed to like us. Listen to some of our stuff at The Amplitude on Bebo or The Amplitude on Myspace tell me what you think
  6. No, a RO sander would take ages, but a grinder, as Jay said, is realy good fun to carve with.
  7. I carved the top of my Les Paul using a 40grit sanding atatchment, it was very easy and quick, but practice alittle on scrap to get a feel for it, you can take of ALOT of material very quick.
  8. Ok, that clears up alot. Just print out the standard pick gaurd shape then draw on what you needon to the shape. It should just flow out longer, i did one simelar for my SG-esqe body (that i never finished), then just transfer it onto your chosen material. Remember to chamfer the edge for that professional look.
  9. Well do that then... Why do you need to make it longer? its already long enough to cover the Brige PU's ears.
  10. Pots are the same, you make it a 'tone' pot by adding a capaciter across a pair of the lugs (see your own shematic for that).
  11. I voted for the guitar i would want to own, and that was that bloody gorge SG! I love the maple and the colour (i have a thing for red guitars...) I liked the pointy bass too because it has lighty up bittys and im a simple person who would be greatly amused by that.
  12. id actauly wire it in paralel, using a resisitor for each LED, thatway if one of them blow's they dont all go out. its a pretty simple curcuit, i'll go draw one out for you.
  13. Ok, let me get this right, you want to wire just the LED's to a battery and switch? why not just remove all the LED's and make a series curcuit out of them? You do realise that if you remove the PCB from the curcuit you have they will not flash or do anything fancy.
  14. Perrys GG7 and The Jelly mans Owl got it from me this month, Truly great looking guitars guys, i want them...
  15. draw the centerline then use a protractor or square.
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