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bluesy

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About bluesy

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  1. Great tutorial. That one sentence above would have saved me some grief when I was starting out I worked it out by trial and error myself - eventually I would just like to add that I don't "go all the way" to achieve the absolute best. I usually end up with a touch more relief than optimal, but that suits me because I do most of my heavy strummin' using chords in the low fret region (below the 10 to 12th fret) because I don't like the sound of bar chords any higher than that. I only play lead up higher than that. Hence the bias for being able to hit the strings harder in the lower part of the neck suits me.
  2. Just missed last month's comp, but the final knobs have now arrived, so here it is. I call it a "PearlCaster" because of the mother of pearl and white colour. I am completely impressed with the sound. I am attributing it to the Gotoh Classic pickups, and the wood used, but for whatever reason, it has a super bright sparkle to the highs, and clean punchy bass. The bridge pickup really bites and the neck pickup, when tamed with the tone control (which works very nicely) can be nice and jazzy. Details:- - NG Rosewood body - Queensland Maple neck - Indian Rosewood fingerboard - Polar White - Black binding - MOP scratch plate - MOP dot markers - Gotoh Classic pickups - Gotoh tuners - ash-tray bridge - mix of gold/brass and chrome fittings
  3. ottovola - HOTSTUFF Very striking guitar. I'm glad the pickup covers come off though. andyt - Goldy Rich looking. I'd prefer if the pickups matched. Nice swirl though. Lil Petrucci - the RobEllis Aslan Tele and Strat sound? Should be nice and versatile. SwedishLuthier - The MorningStar SC Classico Loved the contrasting red and white. Lovely finish, and all that chrome from the bigsby and pickups looks great. A top contender. I wish there was more of a curve or angle to the body shape where it returns to the top of the neck. low end fuzz - Grant's Spalted Guitar Like the wooden tail piece, but I think there's too many different wood grains all mixed in - makes it look too busy. Love to see that fingerboard on a plainer guitar. kpcrash - The UGLY STICK Sorry mate - but yeh, it's as you say - ugly Still if it feels good to play - great. rdiquattro - AB1 Nice finish and shape. I'm not sure how well the f-holes go with the modern shape for me. Hydrogeoman - Erebus model "T" I was going to say I'd have like double binding on it, but the shot of the back as it is, looks stunning. I love tele's. The upper part of the front (where your elbow goes when playing) looks a touch bare. Maybe a logo or a strip might break up the wood grain? Anyway, one of the nice ones this month for me. Kenny - the Kaye Sol Lovely black and blonde combo between the hardware and the maple on the front colouring. Not sure about the rear control cover. Did you try plain black? Anyway, another top contender this time. Boggs - alves/Cuban mahogany chambered RockBeach Cicada Very unique. I liked the positioning of the output jack. jer7440 - His second Liked the headstock. Thought it was a bit orangey for me - maybe darken the pickup rings and volume knob? In the end, I gave it to Swedishluthier's because of the colour contrast, finish, and chrome.
  4. OK, pics. (if you're wondering what that line across the middle, especially in the second photo, so was I. Turns out to be a reflection of an overhead cable :-) )
  5. I want to say thank you. My guitar's finish has turned out very nicely. The help on the use of the electric buffer was good for my confidence. For the benefit of any other Aussies reading this, I used K & H primer and clear top coat, and Powerplus white in between for the colour coat. I got them from 'Autobarn' . This stuff is amazingly simple to use and fast. You only need to wait 20 minutes between coats for the colour, and only FIVE minutes between each clear coat. I applied a large can of primer, a large can of colour, and two large cans of clearcoat (overkill? maybe) in the space of 3 days. Then after only 4 hours ( I left it overnight) before you can sand and polish it. Bunnings were a bit limited in their sandpaper range, so I only had 400, 800, and 1200 grit. However, the K&H can had instructions that implied that sanding may not be necessary, and recommended their K&H "Buff and Shine". The guy in the store said it depended on how good the finish already looked. I had a mild amount of orange peel, so I hit it with 1200 grit only, until the shiny spots were gone, then used the "Buff and Shine" with the electric buffer, and it came up nice and glossy. Very happy !
  6. This comes at a good time for me, as I am just putting on my colour coats today. I will be polishing the clear finish soon then. How long do you let the acrylic clear wait before sanding and polishing? I had planned to start at 400 and work through to 2000 grit, so all is OK to follow your tutorial for that. Great pictures btw - they will give me confidence it is all working correctly. I wanted to ask about how to use the 9" buffer. I bought one while they were cheap the other day. I have never used one of these things before . I found the buffer pads very hard to stretch over the foam disk that spins. Even so, when I turn it on, as it gains speed, the cover will spin off. I noticed that if I keep it in contact with a surface that needs polishing, it never spins nearly that fast, and the cover stays on, so would I be correct in assuming you never let the machine spin free? <is that laughing I hear in the background? > How do you go about using the applicator pad? How much polish/cutter compound do you put on it? Do you cover it or just add a few drops, or do you put the polish on the guitar then just use the applicator to spread it? Do you let the polishing compound dry to a white film before putting on the polishing pad? Excuse all the questions, but you might save me from a silly mistake
  7. I am about to start trying to acquire this skill also. I looked at the router bases for the Dremel, and also the one Stewmac sells. It seems to me that accuracy might be hard with something so big. I am designing (in my head at the moment) and device that will accept the small 'pen' on the end of the flexible shaft from my Dremel-copy device. The pen is much smaller than the Dremel device itself, and hence a much smaller, more accurate, router-jig should be possible. I suspect also, that much practice will be required
  8. I applied the binding first while the top was still flat. Instead of 1.5mmx6mm, I cut the size of the route for the binding at 1.5mmx12mm, glued on the binding at the bottom of the route, then shaped the top, curving it down the 6mm to meet the binding's top edge.
  9. Is it appropriate to reply in this thread? Hope so, please delete if not... Anyway, about the binding, I shaped the top down to meet the binding (which was applied first). I noticed that I didn't get it meeting exactly in that spot, too late, while I was applying the finish. The binding is glued on solid and neat though, and that picture makes it look worse than it is (poor choice of picture eh? ) I think I agree about the headstock - too much black. Thanks for the thoughts - that's going to be the best thing for me in this comp - it'll make me own up to things I need to do better next time .
  10. Hi, I feel a bit cheeky putting my first real attempt up here in the comp, but here goes. I have posted a lot about this as I made it, but here's summary of what it is. - ES335 shaped chambered body, made of New Guinea Rosewood (not a real Rosewood, but so named anyway) - body chambered from the back and top carved and f-holed - Queensland Maple bolt-on neck - Indian Rosewood fingerboard - Abalone fingerboard dots - ply pickguard with black and white purfling as edging - all controls mounted on the pickguard - black side thumbwheels under bottom edge for vol and tone - miniature slide switches, one for each pickup, so they can be switched in alone or together - Epiphone humbuckers (for now at least) Edit: thought I better think of a nickname, how about "Ocean Rose", or just "Rosie" for short, given most of the wood comes from down here in the Oceania region, and the body is Rosewood?
  11. I found a nice shareware program called ABviewer that is very good at handling CAD drawings and printing to multiple pages. It's homepage is http://www.cadsofttools.com/ Here's a pic of the printing dialog. All you do, after select printer and page size and orientation, is select 1:1 as the scale, and it shows you how it is going to print it over multiple pages (I am using A3 pages). When I printed this dxf drawing on our laserjet, it was very accurately sized.
  12. I tried to print a pdf file to multiple pages just a week ago, and Acrobat reader (8 I think) won't split it into multiple pages. The non-free version of their software for creating pdf's will though ( a friend who has it, printed my drawing for me) - though it's not an option for most of us. So, I guess it's worth exploring what software/formats will do it (and print to scale). If I get some time this week I might see what I can find, because I will want to print out a fender neck template myself soon. As an aside, are there any good drawings of a tele (os strat) neck downloadable? I have one of the tele body, but not the neck.
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