JoJo T. Magnifficent

lol, I wonder why nobody ever questioned if the coconuts were imported? long live Monty Python!

mmm kai. Gotta be careful though, the language has to be called "Maori" or more specifically: "Te Reo Maori" (pronounced ma-o-ri, it has a macron above the A which i was too lazy to type, said fast so it sounds kinda like mouldy). They can be very sensitive about thier individuality and culture. And cheers Primal for the clarification

lol, thats ok. Niether can I as for speaking in other languages, my knowledge is fairly limited to a few sparse catch phrases such as "Madre de dios! Es el Pollo Diablo!", which i believe is spanish for "Mother of God! Its the devil chicken!" (see monkey island 3 for more details and proabably a more correct spelling ) and "Mine Deutsch ist sh*zen" (* was added to avoid getting in trouble, im sure we all know what goes there ). I think it means "my german is s**t", but it could mean "my german has s**t", im not sure about the possesive rules in german. mayb its sposed to be sh*zher? someone please correct me if im wrong. also thats the english spellin, german has those funny B shaped things for the zh sound doesnt it? and ToneMonkey, unless "less than 2 years" means a few mins, the beers wouldnt last till then

Being from New Zealand, I can apreciate the amount of talent that requires.

Haha! it was you! thanks for the reply when you say a few light coats, would a can or less be sufficient for the whole guitar? also do you know of any "alergies" to certain clearcoats metalcast has? im a n00b when it comes to painting thanks again for the info, much apreciated.

cheers for that, ill have a look into it. I might try givin my mate tracy a call, he has contacts for getin all the industrial grade stuff, so he might be able to get something to suit my purpouses. I may just end up going for the anodised look using the basecoat, cause I plan on just flogging it off on trademe once im done for just enough to recoup my losses, i got it for the building practice (ive had completely rewire the control harness which fell to bits aswell :S). i guess if i do put in a couple of plain stripes itll still show some of the flame maple

cheers for the reply, unfortunately the only scrap to test on is the kitset guitar itself (jk, its a decent guitar for what i payed for it, the only real thing that isnt up to standard for a factory guitar is the fretjob, frets were of a few different hieghts and there was lots of adheasive that had spilled over the fretslots when the frets were pushed in. a little filing and sanding fixed this up pretty well though, and it plays surprisingly well.) weather the metalcast will stick to the sealer that comes with the saga kits is the main thing im lookin for if anyone knows. my freind seems to think not because it didnt stick properly to the pulley he tried painting without the groundcoat, but i reckon thats cause its straight metal. I vaguely remember someone doing one of these saga kits in translucent blue and im not sure but i think they used metalcast to do it, but searching the forums didnt yeild much, so if anyone remembers who it was or atleast if they did use metalcast, that would be much apreciated.

hey, finally got some time of uni (cause its finaly the midyear break) and ive been thinking of getting round to painting up that saga PRS copy i got off universaljems a while ago (id like to thank brian again for the awesome service). I was looking at using some red duplicolour metalcast pain to get a nice translucent finish to show off the flame maple vaneer and then clearcoat over it, but my freind, whose being using the metalcast paint alot to detail his engine bay lately tells me that it wont work unless i use primer and some groundcoat stuff aswell (which is a matt grey) and that kinda defies the point of using the translucent paint in the first place. what im basically asking is can I just use the metalcast spraycans straight onto the sealer that saga put on the kitset and then clearcoat over that, and if not are there any other ways i can achieve what i want for little cost? cheers in advance for any help.

this is the first time ive been here in a while, been kept too busy with uni. Not the best thing to come back too . Bluespresence was a good guy and an upstanding member of the community, its a shame to lose him.

couldnt find much in the search function, so i just thought id take this opertunity to say DragonForce are an amazing band. Anyone who hasnt heard, or especially seen them play (check youtube.com for the solo from through the fire and flames on vid). Herman Li is an insane guitarist and thier other lead (forget his name) is also great, and then when they play duets and just to further entice you: http://www.googlefight.com/index.php?lang=...d2=joe+satriani google fight never lies (except on the odd ocasion such as metallica vs iron maiden) fury of the storm and through the fire and flames are both great songs. I hear the band also puts on a wicked live preformance, but i havnt seen them myself (we dont get alot here in nz) I definately reccomend you check them out if you havnt heard them already. :edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqYjqyHnVNs...rch=dragonforce for the solo and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njDtlnNkjko...rch=dragonforce for the music video to through the fire and the flames, it skips a couple of bits to keep the videos pace up i think.

http://www.dbmmusic.com/category-1058-10.php these prices are pretty reasonable i think. ive heard both good and bad bout kent armstrong, but the overwhelming majority says good. the above link is probly a good bit safer than something like trademe too id imagine for things like defective pickups etc. but as stated above, better amp > pickups. its more expensive by a fair amount, but its a better investment if you get the right one. something like a line 6 spinder II 1*12 or 2*12 (or maybe a marshall AVT if you can get a bit more cash) would make a good practice amp for the rest of your life (or ther amps). plus I use my line 6 spider 1*12 over the laney or fender half stacks they have at 'the stomach' where my band practices (although once i have a good ditortion pedal ill probly start using the fender 4*12)

it took me about 7-8 months to get my shecter c-1 classic from them last year, and the w*nkers shipped it halfway across the world in a cardboard box even after id specifically spent the last 6 months telling them that i wanted it shipped INSIDE the hardcase id had also ordered from them. they told me the hardcase was instock and they were just waitng for the guitar, 3 months later they said they had the guitar and it was shipping, a month later they told me that it haddnt shipped yet because the case hadnt arrived, so they changed my order status to returned, put a new set of everything i had ordered on the list and ended up costing me another 100$ or so in currency conversion fees, then for some reason they decided it would be fun to ship the guitar and the effects pedal i had ordered without the case. the case came in 2 weeks later so they shipped it, and it arrived before the guitar by about 2 weeks cause UPS screwed up. luckily the guitar still made it here in perfect condition, but it cause me a fair amount of stress. oh yea, then there was the 20$ phone bill cuase i had to ring them cause they stopped replying to my emails, i ended up siting on hold for 10 mins on an international toll call (which i also had to make at 2am because of time differences). just hung up in the end. evidently they had ALOT of people ringing to complain . to summurise all of the above: Cancell your order now for the love of god! take your money some place else (unless of course you have no alternative). somewhere that doesnt have the coustomer service skills of a colon infection. even thier emails seem to be pre-written reposonses. music123.com bad! beer good!

and dont forget the poor bastards who live in silly little backwater countries like New Zealand, the only tab books i see here are for bach n stuff like that :S. And besides, most tab books are 3rd party anyway, and the artist only get meger royalties. The way I see it, its just like a prostitute sueing some dirty slapper in a bar cause shes willing to give it for free. If some dude in kasblackistan wants to write a tab for a song based on his interpretation of the song and make it freely available ot all on the net, then good for him. I cant see why this is wrong and illegal, and why the tab book writers should get upset just cause they picked a dumb career. Im gonna miss powertab if it does go.

They are what you pay for. im fairly confident they are maple, and they are quite thick (some describe them as the "boat" shape) The fret job on the one i got was average, a few of the frets were significantly shorter than the others :S. the frets were poorly put in two, there was a lot of epoxy (or whatever they use to glue them in) on the fretboard in a few places. the kits seem to be pretty hit and miss from what ive read, and its probly best to go for the strat or tele models (i got the PRS shaped one). I would guess the strat/tele models would definately be no worse than a squier tho, try searching the forum for more info, theres been quite a few posts about them here and its where i got all my pre-purchase info from. http://www.universaljems.com/cart/st10/st10.htm for the strat and http://www.universaljems.com/cart/telekit.htm for the tele. or if you really want the angled headstock: http://www.universaljems.com/cart/ht10/ht10.htm or http://www.universaljems.com/cart/lc10/lc10.htm

just a random stab in the dark (my digital electronics exam has been, so all info has been evacuated to make room for remaining exams) but woudlnt a stright capcitor to LED to GND work? low Freq notes would mean the Cap would have a much higher Impeadance in series so the LED wouldnt be as bright, and vice versa for High freqs. Youd probly want a current limiting resistor in there aswell. Edit: Having had some time to think about it ( not that i did much thinking ), the diode may clip the signal if wired like that. but its worth lookin at, cause its a cheap and easy solution if it does work.

I think the design you picked looks good, although I think you may want to beef up the bass side of the neck pocket around the horn a bit, for strength, or perhaps drop the recess on the other side and make the neck pocket more recessed like a PRS type joint, where its right in the body and makin lotsa contact with wood. That helps the whole heel thing aswell (Im assuming its a bolt on cause of the bolt holes)

I actually think that would look really nice with a spalted maple top. or maybe a flamed spalted maple top

either way it sounds all good. Should be a mean axe when its done.

back in the day any more coke than that ine one sitting would mess you up pretty good (that is where the name came from after all). As for the guitar, its looking good, id probly want to change the series/phase/paralell/whateer other wiring config switches you had planed for the fender style sliding switches like they used on the jag. Its simpler and probly cleaner looking to IMO, fits the "retro" vibe aswell. have fun with all that wiring

500XL like lovekraft said (make sure its a bill lawrence, not a bill lawrence USA). EMGs are good, but as you said, batteries are a hassel. SD distortion (sh-6) and JB (sh-4) are both good, aswell as the custom, but the JB is better for cleans. Dimarzio Evolutions, x2n's blaa blaa blaa. go to a guitar shop and play some high end guitars with SD's and dimarzios and see what you like. An important thing to note aswell, is what kind of guitar are these going in? different woods acentuate different frequencies. because of this certain pickups will go better with different woods.

dunno if the no use of volume clause discounts this, but sumthing like an EMG active 20dB booster would be a pretty easy solution (push pull pot), but that introduces the hassle of batteries.

hey, sounds like a good buy. got a BC. Rich bodyart (bout 1 year old) for $300NZD not long ago at the local cashies, just ahad a few chips on the horns. every now and then you find a jem amongst the sand .

lol, my bad, thanks for pointing that out. i wonder if i actually used 470 ks or not :S thanks for pointing that out. I managed to get some 1n60s aswell.it may take a while to get the working PCB back, if I can get one at all. If not Ill just have to settele for the 5 year old bit of veroboard I found in my closet thismorning my brain dont seem to be working too well, too many assignments due, not to mention the duck project ( we basically have to make an IR gun that can track one of 3 plastic ducks that generate pseudo random binary code, find it and kill it. they made it quite challenging though, by making the prbs clocked at 133hz so we get ALOT of noise from mains hum and the flourecent lights on the prbs reciever). Thanks for all your help lovekraft.

http://www.geocities.com/j4_student/4trans.gif is the one im using I just realised i got the diodes backwards in the PCB schematic, so ive fixed it up and ill re-submit it later, hopefully theyll print it out again (although i was surprised they did it in the first place). cheers for all your help lovekraft

Thanks heaps, i should be able to get some germanium diodes easy, aswell as the NPN transistors. What about the 1/8th watt resistors? Im guessing the should be ok, because the transistors would go aswell if there was sufficeint current to burn the resistors (more than 20mA). So Im guessing that it will run ok, just mayb a little hot