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Entry for July 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


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About foil1more

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  • Birthday 08/04/1990

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    Pennsylvannia, USA
  1. SwedishLuthier got my vote. That guitar is amazing. Thanks everyone for the feedback on my build. I'm definitely hooked on building guitars now, so I'll be refining this design and designing new ones.
  2. I would agree with wes. Maple tends to amber as it ages. I have an old piece my uncle gave me that looks about the same color as that neck on the surface but if I sand it, it's light under that layer. You may have just sanded through it. Even so, I wouldn't mess with it. There's more of a chance of screwing up trying to get the color to match perfectly.
  3. Hmm, tough competition this month. I'll through mine in here too. First guitar I've built from scratch. "The Mad Dutchman" (I asked for name suggestions from my friends and this is the best one) Mahogany body with maple top (the body is about 1/2 to 2/3 chambered) Maple bolt-on neck stained with rosewood dust from the fretboard. 25" scale, 24 frets Ebony nut Neck bolted with brass inserts in the heel and 1/4 steel machine screws. Gotoh TOM bridge string-thru Golden Age overwound humbuckers. 5 way multi-pole switch (neck, outer coils parallel, both pickups, inner coils parallel, bridge) Body finished with shellac, neck finished with tru-oil I'm really happy with how it sounds. It has a lot of sustain and a nice rich sound. I'm happy that any mistake I made while building could be easily fixed or covered. My favorite pickup selection is the outer coils. Lot's of bite and crunch and almost a wah sound when the tone is closed. I do have to fix a bit of the finish though. I took it into college to show some friends and professors and I didn't realize that the shellac wasn't as cured as I thought. I now have a strap mark. But live and learn and this was a great learning experience.
  4. I pressed mine in with a vise and radius block. I only had to glue the ends of a few frets. The ends didn't want to bite into the wood.
  5. I don't think this is here. If you are using chisels, knives, and other stuff that can slip, protect the hand that isn't holding the tool. So far, I've bounced knuckles off of a drill press mounted drum sander, missed and stabbed my hand with a knife (I'm not sure how I pulled that off), and I've stuck a 2mm gouge through the skin over my first knuckle on my index finger. If it would have been bigger, I would have needed more than a band-aid. All these injuries happened to my left hand because the right held the tool.
  6. If it doesn't have the stripes in it already, you're not going to get the stripes. Like ihocky2 said, that is part of the wood. Not all maple is striped. If your guitar is a solid color it probably doesn't have the striping. Unfortunately, you can't know until you strip off the old finish.
  7. I wore a face shield but not a mask for the first knife I ever ground. Didn't get a headache ( I actually like the smell of steel) but I did get a mustache from the dust. That's why I (usually) remember to wear a dust mask. I haven't worked with any real toxic woods yet but I find a mouth full of mahogany or maple dust is quite unpleasant. Though after reading this, if I do use more toxic woods, I'll buy a respirator. BTW, I've been on Allegra D and Flonase for my allergies for about 4 years now and it works great.
  8. My name is Rob Brenner. I'm 18. I started building when I was 16 but due to lack of money, I've only built an acoustic and a bass, both from kits from Grizzly industrial. I'm currently working on an electric guitar from scratch. If I hadn't had to fix my car, I would be done with it by now. I've always been interested in music. I've played cello for 9 years now. I plan to have my own repair/custom shop one day. Here's my first acoustic which I finally made playable. It is french polished The fretboard was a little longer than the instructions specified so I ended up moving the nut about 1/8 of an inch towards the bridge and moving the saddle (involved cutting a new chanel and filling the old) almost 1/4" (that's what the light stripe is in front of the saddle). Took many hours and an impressive hand injury but it's good now. My bass. Built with no instructions. Refinished 3 times: 1. Tried thinning lacquer and brushing it on. Sealer went on fine but the lacquer went nuts. 2. stripped off the lacquer, redyed and used tung oil and waxed it with beeswax. Used too much beeswax. Scraped it off, cleaned it with alcohol and redyed. 3. used brush on poly.
  9. A little raising grain question? will alcohol and oil raise the grain? I'm planning on using transtint dye in behlen behkol to dye the top blue and then using tru-oil for the finish. If these won't raise the grain then I won't even worry about raising the grain. I'm going to do a burst with the blue. I plan to use a very dark blue, sand back, wipe on the lighter blue, and then use a little aerosol sprayer to burst with the dark blue. When I built a bass from a kit I raised the grain then sanded it back and it did seem to kill the grain of the quilted veneer a little. I also think I sanded to 800 or something stupid like that. Won't do that again
  10. +1 on car polishing stuff. I used mothers scratch remover and wax on poly on my bass.
  11. When I was researching for my current guitar project I was intent on putting a FR on it. I have only seen one FR bridge on ebay that was specially made to be mounted without routing to an LP. It was $500 for the bridge only and it wasn't even new. FRs are really complicated. I wouldn't mess up a LP to mount one if you don't know what you're doing. If you are intent on a trem for the LP, get a Bigsby and get a really good roller bridge or special saddles for the existing bridge and install a self lubing nut and locking tuners. If you're careful and set it up perfectly, you should be able to use the trem pretty hard.
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