daniboy

hey folks, i have a few questions related to fret levelling and crowning as well as a setup. i am under the impression that a brand new bolt-on neck should be attached to a body under string tension to factor in any reaction before fret levelling and crowning but i've read otherwise that it can be done prior to assembly and any excess relieve can be dialled out be adjusting the truss rod. i believed the frets should be on a straight plane with relieve factored in for the lowest possible action without buzz and fretting out. so isn't it redundant to fret l/c on an unattached neck that never been strung up before since string tension is going to change the fret level to a certain degree? that said, if i am to build a guitar and have it setup in a cooler and drier climate, will it need another setup if i am to travel with it to a hot and humid country? thanks! dani

thanks for the response guys and good call patrick. and that's probably why so many people has got polar opposites experience with walnut. some said it is slightly less bright than maple while some say it is slightly brighter than mahogany. i will be using black walnut since they are readily available. care to chime in about black walnut's tone?

thanks guys. any feedback on its tonal properties? i did a search on the forum and some said it was bright while others thought it was warm.

hey guys, i am planning to build a 7-string tele with a bolt-on 25" scale neck. guess i am pretty fixed on using wenge and ebony for the neck and fingerboard respectively due to the fact i like the feel of raw wood. question is, what will a walnut body add to the tonal equation? this guitar will be used for rock/metal where a quick bass response especially on the low b is required as well as a rounded tone on the plain strings. read not ice-picky. i did consider swamp ash for its tight and snappy lows but am afraid that it will have too toppy a high end. i read on frank's falbo wood guide that walnut is a good choice since it has snappy lows like swamp ash, mids like alder and highs like mahogany. any of you who built/played a walnut body guitar had similar experience? what else would you recommend besides walnut taking into consideration the neck and fingerboard wood. many thanks, dani

both are ash bodies and are mass market guitars as opposed to a custom shop instrument. the first guitar is a signature model and it is even available in the lower end edwards line. drak has a point on the "risk" of burning especially on mass market productions. so what gives?

hey guys, esp japan did some amazing work on their swamp ash guitars. they called it burner finish. its basically a clear coat over what looked like wood burning on the grains. anyone knows how they achieve the said finish? i was thinking of using dark colored filler only on the grains followed by clear coats instead of physically burning it with a torch. some even suggested using color pencil/pencil lead. here are some pics for reference. thanks, dani

thanks wexv. btw, the tele has a set neck. so i guess recessing the bridge is the only solution...

hey bros, this is the first time i am attempting to convert a fixed bridge on my tele to a string-thru-body/t-o-m bridge. any of you had the experience of doing this? should i even try? will appreciate if someone can guide me along this project. this is the guitar in question. thanks guys! dani

just cleared the store and these have to go. such a waste for them to be sitting around... anyways, here they are. nickel covered 59 trembucker - $55 nickel covered 59 neck with a3 magnet - $55 logo-ed black custom trembucker with electrical tape - $45 vintage stack lead for tele w/o logo - $35 mint white classic stack plus neck - $55 mint white classic stack plus rw/rp middle - $55 paypal preferred. do pm for details if needed. cheers! dani

the duncan hot lead for tele is a bridge pickup. more info can be found here. http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/telesdescr.shtml#Hot

double cream dimarzio air zone in standard space - $40 seymour duncan hot lead for tele - $30 fender japan dragster humbucker with nickel cover - $20 all pickups are in good condition with long leads. thanks as always! dani

i am not sure if anyone is interested but here goes. i have a good condition mij esp the hybrid prototype for sale (a tele body with doublecuts of an lp special). according to esp japan. the first hybrid is actually called 'the hybrid' with only one humbucker in the bridge position. this was the transition after 'the hybrid' but before they are discontinued and launch the 'hybrid II' with a tele rhythm pickup in the neck. it reads the hybrid but with an additional tele neck pickup. hence the prototype. neck has an almost medium c shape. slightly slimmer than a fender strat/tele but much thicker than an ibanez wizard. dead straight and zero fret wear. here are the specs, body - alder neck - maple/rosewood, 25.5" scale, 12" radius, medium jumbo frets and abalone inlays nut - earvana compensated finish - vintage white darkend to a creamy patina all other hardware are stock. asking $350 shipped. thanks as always! dani

quick sale. $170 shipped. here are some pics albeit not taken very professionally.

1 set of duncan sp90-1 vintage p90s for bridge and neck with cream covers - $100 dimarzio double cream air zone in standard space - $50 1 set of 6-inline chrome grover locking tuners - $30 all prices includes shipping and pickups have long leads. thanks as always! dani

usacg 1-pc maple neck for strat. 7.25" to 9.5" compound radius, c shape back contour with a fast .090" taper from the 1st to the 12th fret (.815"-.905"), medium jumbo frets, 70s headstock, bone nut cut for .010 to .046, finished in vintage satin by roxy. perfectly straight with zero fret wear. neck comes with threaded neck inserts and bolts,string tree and gotoh kluson-type tuners. $200 thanks as always! dani