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G_urr_A

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Everything posted by G_urr_A

  1. Didn't like metaltabs? Or are you gonna stay there too? And, building guitars is kinda fun even if you screw up. I did with my first attempt, it's sitting in the corner, and I don't ever play it, since it ended up non-playable, but it was a good experience, and I want to build another one. But, as someone said, it can be a bit tiring for the bank account.... ;-) Anyways, welcome!
  2. Temperature changes could cause trouble. If the metal pieces around the glass expand less than the glass, well.... *crack*. If the other way around, you'll have a gap.
  3. I like this thread even though it doesn't change my opinion. 1. It makes me think about what I think (I don't usually think about weed since it's pretty much not present in my daily life) 2. It shows which members can state their opinions calmly, and back them up with facts. 3. It allows me to get a better picture of the situation in other countries. 4. It gives me a better base for my opinion, by telling me that this and that person I have been respecting since I got here, has also been using drugs for quite some time. And for those who may be wondering why I chose to reply, I just felt I wanted to share my opinion to prevent mods from locking this thread. And for anyone wondering about my opinion in the matter at hand, I can't really give you an answer. What I can say though, is: -I'm strongly against myself using drugs (mainly considering alcohol, though), but I think that's mainly because I doubt I could handle it. -I think it's up to each and every one of us to do what we want, as long as it doesn't affect others (if it's going to affect others, ask first and respect their answer). And that leaves me with no answer to the question about legalizing drugs, since a legalisation would depend on the people's ability to use the drug in question responsibly, IMO.
  4. Your post to me seems somewhat ambigous, but I voted assuming that you're asking what I'd like. And my choice would be EMGs, simply because that's the only brand I've got any experience with (played others, but either unbranded, or not knowing what brand, or not in equipment that allowed me to make a fair judgement), and I've been rather happy with them since I got them. In my case, it's an 81 and an 85 (formerly neck and bridge, respectively, but now the other way around), but I think most of their stuff seems like it'll do what it promises.
  5. My 2 öres (that's like "Swedish cents", in case you didn't know). Keep in mind I've never refinished a guitar. The following part is only backed up by what I've read, and a little bit of experience from other types of finishing work. Chemical stripping To me it seems a lot of people have trouble with this, either not getting the right stripper for their type of finish, or getting blotches left over, and having to sand anyways. Heat gun I've got experience with this on guitar finishes, but I've been using a heat gun to strip some kind of finish off of the family's boat several times (have to redo it every year). My experience from that tells me it's good way to go, it's pretty simple and rather effective. Just make sure you don't burn the wood. Sanding It's gonna take a while, but if you're patient and don't want to invest in a heat gun, this is IMO the way to go. Pretty much fool proof (unlike chemical stripping, it seems), but takes time.
  6. I just thought I'd offer my input on the computer monitor issue. I can get almost buzz-less with my strat clone (3 singlecoils) sitting right here, less than 2 feet from one 17" and one 19" monitor. Requires some positioning of the guitar, but it's certainly doable. [Edit] And that's with rather heavy distortion on. But obviously there's a noise gate involved too.
  7. You mentioned that it'd need tweaking whenever something changes in the signal path. To me, it feels like it'd really be a good idea to implement several "settable" presets. Of course, these could be used both for having several different "sustainer based" effects, or for having one effect but different settings for use with different pups. How you'd implement that electrically I don't really know though... And it's kind of difficult to say much about what controls I'd want when I don't know how it feels to play around with it. About mounting the sustainer-thingy at the bridge or somewhere else, I wouldn't really be bothered (I'd get the thing if I wanted it, regardless of it's demands for position), but I guess it's easier to keep it clean looking if it's near the bridge, especially on rear routed guitars. So I think it's worth some time exploring the bridge positions. I personally wouldn't be concerned right now, since all my guitars are black (and black cables should match neatly), but if you've got a nice flamed maple top with an oil finnish, it'll be difficult to have the cable(s) there without them being noticed. Keep it up!
  8. I don't have any pics (could take if really wanted). The only thing I know about the guitar is what's been said, and that the label inside (seen through the soundhole) says "Sigma" (IIRC). Thanks a lot, tirapop, those articles look like they'll answer my questions!
  9. My dad's old nylon string acoustic guitar (bought some time in the seventies(?)) is having a bit of trouble, I think. If I point the neck to the sky, and the sound hole towards me, there is a crack along the edge of the top in the bottom right "corner" of the guitar. It's not a full blown crack, really, but only "starting" to crack, so the finnish is cracked and the top is bowing (maybe slightly cracked, can't see due to the finnish cracks covering that). I don't know if this is something that's been caused by a one time incident or if it's going to get worse and worse, but I've started considering fixing it. What I'm wondering is how would I go about fixing this? My guess would be that I should try to but some reinforcement inside the guitar in the affected area, and when glueing that reinforcement in, the top should be clamped flat. Do you guys have any ideas/suggestions/complaints? (And for those asking "is it worth fixing? shouldn't you just get a new one?", well, yeah, I could, but it'd be fun to work with this guitar)
  10. Sounds to me like you're either adjusting in the wrong direction, or you've run out of adjustment space... But I don't know. It should not be the drop D tuning. It could be a neck problem, but it shouldn't be. Selling a neck that bad is something they shouldn't be able to get away with.
  11. Found it yet? (You've had over a year now...)
  12. 28 pages. That's twice as long as when I started following this thread. First, I read through the 14 pages that had already written, and since then I've been following it (keeping an extra browser window open at all times and reading any updates as soon as I see them). It's pretty interesting, and it's awfully nice to see the progress made! Keep it up psw!!!
  13. And the neck angle has got nearly nothing to do with the headstock. Neck angle is the angle between the body and the neck, headstock angle is the angle between the neck and the headstock. (Yes, I know that's not very accurate, but I'm slightly tired now, so I won't bother finding proper planes between which those angles can be measured and then finding names for them)
  14. I had 0.53 on a guitar for a while, and that worked without drilling. Can't remember how much margin there was, though.
  15. The other way around though. The fret's radius should be smaller than the radius of the fretboard. [Edit] Which is what would be called overbending. Underbending would be what you said, thus the opposite of what I said. [/Edit]
  16. wes, that works if they all have the same resistance (or as you say, Ohm rating). If you start getting into different resistances in the speakers, you need to get fancy with the math.
  17. lovekraft is right. Ohm's law doesn't directly concern resistances in series or parallel. U = R * I can only indirectly be used for that type of math (ie if you have the voltage and current through every component, you can find the total voltage and current, and thus the resistance, or vice versa). So Ohm's law is not what you want to google for in this case. And I don't understand how your (R1*R2)/(R1+R2) is derived from Ohm's law.
  18. I'm not sure when or where, but LGM made a tutorial in which he built a riser block for his Delta bandsaw (I think). Search around on these forums and on his site, and you should be able to find it. [Edit] Apparently I was wrong. From what I could find, it was Lex Luthier that made a riser, and it wasn't really approved of from a safety point of view, so I guess it's not really worth a try. So sorry about the first part of the post.
  19. 1 inch is about equal to 2.54 cm, meaning that 1 mm is slightly more than 1/25 inch. But then "you people" measure inches as fractions with a denominator which is a power of two, so 41/1024 would perhaps be better. But a 1024th of an inch is a bit small, so 5/128 is better. So between 3/64 and 2/64 is right.
  20. Sorry for a bit of a hijack. I just realised that this thread is good in several ways. 1. Deadmike is not just begging and begging and begging, but begging and trying to find for himself and thanking when someone else finds. That's good. 2. It contains lots of good info. 3. It keeps the info availible. This is my main point. If we would, each time someone asked about scale length, refer to the search function and some older thread, the actual answers to any question would sooner or later be lost from these forums. There has to be an upper limit as to how old a thread can get before it is removed to save space. So after a long while we would have a series of links leading to a dead link. And the answer wouldn't be found. So, *in a way*, it is good that new people come by and ask old questions every now and then, even though you often wish they'd ask a little less often. And that's all for tonight.
  21. In case no one noticed, this thread had been untouched since May this spring.
  22. I didn't read all of this thread. I just thought I'd post one little comment. The part quoted above is what made me loose respect for these theories. To the best of my knowledge, the tonal differences that shape will give you are rather small. To consider an Ibanez (presumably and RG, but he didn't say) to be "just a strat with a humbucker" when dealing with so small tonal differences seems rather (please excuse my lack of vocabulary) dumb. It's a bit like saying that planes with aluminium seats fly better than others and also state that a Cessna 182 is pretty much a Boeing 747 minus the bulge in the nose...
  23. The first thing I thought when I saw your initial design: http://tinypic.com/ocw21 Cool woods, and neat design, even if the similarity kinda bugs me...
  24. This is NOT the proper place to post this. This is not about the construction of a solid body guitar or bass. A better place would be the "Players' corner" where we're supposed to discuss gear (among other things of course). I'd suggest you wait for a mod to move it, instead of creating another thread, since that'll create confusion. I have no useful answers to your question though. Sorry about that.
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