mkat

Sorry about this, I had to drag this thread out in order to correct it. Phil, you weren't on anything, you were right. I wound two coils tonight and the turn count is indeed around the 10,000 mark per coil.

[quote name='TonyFlyingSquirrel' post='365328' date='Jan 29 2008, 08:14 AM']I have the exact same trem, I was told by Stewmac that the Floyd template that they sell (both recessed & non-recessed) are a direct fit.[/quote] Thanks Tony. I'm a bass player who started building basses recently. I also just completed one guitar and am about to start the next with this trem. Do guitar players and builders really utilise the recessed option (is it worth it)?

I have a Gotoh GE1996T guitar trem. Is the route pattern for this the same as the floyd Rose original? I'll be installing this into a guitar that I'm preparing to build soon, rather than a guitar than has an existing trem route.

Yeah, thank but I already have that info. Those are Jason's dimensions though and not necessarily the original vintage fender height for the coil.

David, That's correct. It's around 5000 turns per coil. The DC resistance is around the 5K mark per coil, around 10K for both. There is no way 10000 turns of 42 AWG will fit on a single PBass bobbin.

Phil, while you're at it, do you have a coil height for a pre '64 jazz bass pickup?

No worries Jockson. Things that go wrong aren't always bad, because you get to think about workarounds. Anyway, the screws should be fine for that body. It's done now, so you can move on to the next body knowing you'll do a better job. Regards, Michael

Hi Jockson, It's bad. There are a few different types of joints you can use. For example, you could rabbit the ends of both peices and slot them together. The long grain (not that there would be much of it in this case) must be really smooth before glue up. This will make a better joint because of the long grain contact. Someone mentioned dowls, which is a good idea but it's still end grain with no long grain contact. Glue up using epoxy sounds good, since there won't be significant stress. I wouldn't use screws, but that's a personal preference not that it won't work. Regards, Michael

I harmonically tune my fretted and fretless basses by ear and check them against the tuner. But the tuner is flakey depending on the string. So, I wanted something that would register the input signal much better.

Some shops use some device, that I don't know the name of, to harmonically tune guitars. I use a tuner, but would like to know of a device that is far more accurate. So, what electronic gadgets are used for this?

Hi, Just wondering if there are any issues with mixing pickup types and brands. For example, I have what I think is an old DiMarzio P Bass pickup (passive, with cream coloured pickup covers) and I want to add a J Bass pickup to make it a P/J configuration. Now, since it won't be an active pickup setup, I'm assuming that it will be ok but would like confirmation and any pointers to avoid issues that may arise. Regards, Michael

For bass nuts, it's easy. You can cut a bass nut with inexpensive diamond files, which cost AUD$12 (US$ is slightly above half that amount at this time). Get a packet of small diamond files, which contain - thin flat file with tapered edges to do the initial cut - thin round file that tapers at the end to do the remaining filing. For thin strings use the end (thinner part) of the file and move towards the thicker part for the thicker strings I haven't found any fret files here unless I order them internationally, so this is what I use (I've cut bone and graphite compound nuts with diamond files) and it works really well. Note: Some care must be taken when using the round tapered file to avoid over sizing the slot. But if the nut is approapriately marked, this won't be a problem. If you don't know what they look like, have a look at this page which contains two excellent images that are large enough to see each file http://www.sunva.cn/Diamondfiles-07.htm Regards, Michael

Thanks for all your help. I started with nothing working and some wasted time, to everything working and creating some music. Thanks for all your assistance, patience and logical thinking, which has enabled me to learn a thing or two. Regards, Michael

Both pots now work, I didn't have to connect the tone pot ground lug to the volume pot ground. However, there is some hum or buzz, which stops when I touch the volume or tone pot. How can I get rid of that? Here is another image with how it is now wired: Regards, Michael

I've reconnected the light green wire to the back of the volume pot (ground) and have connected the tone pot. The volume pot works, but the tone pot does not work. I've connected the tone pot the same as the pic I posted. Any suggestions to correct the tone pot wiring? Note: The current wiring is slightly different to the original. Might send another pic to make things easier. Regards, Michael