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guitar_player

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  1. I route the neck taper with a template than glue on the fingerboard oversize and route it to the neck. If the fingerboard has no radius and it's an angled headstock I rout the taper on the fingerboard glue it then route the neck to it.
  2. I have the warmoth one's too and think there great, if your repairing guitars and use them often you may want something better (more durability) but they work great.
  3. Try the grizzly Japanese gouges, they are supposed to be pretty good for the price.
  4. I wasn't very impressed with mine and sent them back, the rasps are great though I use them all the time.
  5. That's what I do for acoustics just I use nails instead of sticks with clamps and I started using a strip of wood with packing tape on it down the center with a cement block on top instead of clamps. It's a very easy way to do it and I don't see why it wouldn't work for electric tops.
  6. There's a lot of tutorials to building necks there is nothing different about building a bass neck than a guitar neck besides the size. Also by wanting a fretless you saved yourself a lot of work on one of the harder parts. Good luck, I think neck throughs are the easiest type to build (and my favorite to own too) so that may help you. Check out ebay for wood but buying local is the cheapest and look through some of the build threads for neck through basses or guitars.
  7. I would try that method but I think removing it might be the only way. That's only if it is bad enough to bother you that much if it was only a little when you knocked the neck I wouldn't worry about it. You should have used caulk though and you don't want any glue to in the slot because it could glue the truss rod in and make it unusable or impossible hard to get out if ever needed. I put caul on in 3 different places put in the truss rod them take a piece of masking tape to put over the truss trod and spread the glue on then take off the masking tape and glue on the fingerboard. I have managed to get seamless glue lines after removing the board but it is not very easy.
  8. Mine are 3/4'' thick C-shaped and don't get any thinner close to the headstock, this feels great to me much better than any other neck I've played on before. I think I'll try 1'' for my next though I can always make it thinner.
  9. I would think it depends on what kind of cedar any probably isn't good for a fingerboard. Spanish cedar is a lot different than western red cedar nothing alike. Spanish cedar is a lot harder and looks a lot like mahogany, western red cedar is really soft. I believe spanish cedar is used on steel string acoustic necks sometimes.
  10. A router table only needs to be a table or a piece of plywood or melimine is best on sawhorses, the store bought tables seem way too cramped for me. I would use spindle drums in a drill press inside. A separate machine is best of course I ended up getting a used one off craigslist.
  11. The paint inside the cavities is shielding paint, to shield the electronics, it is cheaper to use the tape though and either will work just as good, just the paint would look a little cleaner. paint - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...ding_Paint.html tape - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...opper_Tape.html
  12. I use end snips as fret cutters, a flat piece of wood with sandpaper double sticked to it for leveling, a radius block, crowning file (I buy a replacement one from stewmac and make my own handle), a straightedge, micro mesh paper from stewmac for polishing fretboard, used to use a brass hammer for hammering in the frets but now I press them in. For the fretpress I use a crappy spade bit, a block of maple, a nail, and a insert from stewmac for $4.50. Pm me if you want info on it.
  13. I finished working on it today it sounds and plays great.
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