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Micter

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Everything posted by Micter

  1. I'm one to use somewhat non-traditional wood combinations. I have made necks from Peruvian Walnut, Koa, various Rosewoods, Black Walnut, etc. Some of my best necks have been Peruvian Walnut which has a very straight grain when compared to Black Walnut etc. Koa is by far my favorite. I wish I would have purchased a lot of it before the prices skyrocketed. Granted Koa is in the mahogany vein but it has some qualities that I haven't found in other close relatives. Even when it comes to bodies I use a variety of woods that aren't in the tradition of guitar building. Different is good!
  2. I've not heard of any real success stories with people finishing with Polycrylic. I have heard of lots of guys using it as a grain filler. YMMV
  3. I can slot 24.625", 24.75", 25", or 25.5" scale lengths. $25 shipped CONUS. I can slot your board for $8 plus actual shipping. PM me with any questions Micter
  4. Thanks, I've priced it to sell.
  5. American made Fender body/hardware with Warmoth neck. It's pretty clean with some buckle rash, and plays very well. Asking $400 plus actual shipping. I am also considering parting it out.
  6. I haven't posted much here but thought some of you might enjoy this scratch build. It's been a long time sitting in my shop. I originally was making this one for myself. A friend of mine has been asking me for it and I caved. Hey, money talks. Anyway, it's mahogany body, with flamed maple and flamed walnut front and back, 1/8" ABS plastic binding (don't try it. It's very difficult to work with) mahogany neck from the same piece as the body. Rosewood fretboard and side dots are alternating black and white. Finished with Spray Max K2 and tru oil on the neck. It plays and sounds really great. I'm having a hard time letting this one go but I guess I can always make another one. Some day? Maybe.
  7. I'm not much for traditional guitars at all. I kind of like doing different configurations, colors, etc.
  8. I used timbermate dark walnut grain filler, transtint red in lacquer thinner straight to the wood.,Deft S&S, and Deft brushing lacquer sprayed through a preval.
  9. Scratch built body obviously African Mahogany. Grain filled with dark walnut Timbermate, dyed with Transtint Red, Deft S&S, Deft brushing lacquer sprayed through a Preval. The neck isn't my creation. It's a Warmoth neck that I have had for about a year and a half. I needed to do something with it. The Trem is a Gotoh Floyd Rose. The pups are a Dimarzio PAF Pro in the bridge with a coil tap on the push pull volume. The neck is something I have had in my parts bin for years. I don't remember what it is but it sounds OK. Not a lot of output but very tone-full. This guitar looks 100% better in person. It is very difficult to capture the depth of the grain with my digital camera. To referesh your memory. Here is what it looked like in the begining of the finishing process.
  10. hufschmidt Somebody does need to buy this chunk of beautiful wood to stop me from building yet another guitar.
  11. Trust me it's African Mahogany.
  12. I have this left over from another project. HERE This is some great looking African Mahogany. $110 shipped/paypal ConUS. PM or email mcmicter at yahoo dot com if interested. Sorry no trades and price is firm. I also have an alder paint grade blank that I'll sell for $65 shipped/paypal ConUS. I might consider trades on this one. What ya got? Thanks for looking
  13. Thanks, the rout between the pickups is just a wire channel. It's standard on Fender pickguard type Telecasters.
  14. Thanks. I'll be posting pics as I go along.
  15. Well, I went to my local lumber supplier looking for some 8/4 Alder and low and behold, it was out of stock. I asked the salesman if he would be willing to give me a discount on some African mahogany instead. I found this stuff and thought "what the heck?" So anyway, here's what I have so far. Two piece African Mahogany Tele, routed in a hybrid (Super Tele) configuration. I used timbermate dark walnut grain filler, dyed the wood directly with transtint red, hit it with a wash coat of shellac, Deft brush on sander sealer, and two coats of Deft lacquer. I know a lot of folks don't like dying wood directly but you gotta like the way the grain popped on this one.
  16. Well, It's done (sorta). I tried an old Carvin pick up I had lying around and don't like it. I'm gonna wait til I need to change strings and swap it for the DiMarzio I had in it for the mock up. Other than that I'm liking it. I am very pleased with how the Koa top looks after clear. In person the grain looks like it's 1/4" deep. I had that piece of wood in the garage for years and saw NO potential in it whatsoever.
  17. I didn't understand what you were talking about at first as I had 13 posts too. I had done a search for burst finishes on Koa. I found this pic and tried to duplicate it but without the red band. Thanks for the compliment. It looks even better now that it has a couple cans of lacquer on it. I'll post up some pics once I wet sand in a few weeks.
  18. My first thought is : Way to make that plain body POP!! When I first looked at it, it looked like a backyard project, plain as jane. The color and burst is quite a nice change. Lookin forward to seeing it done now. Thanks. I have to be honest, I had that piece of Koa lying around for a couple of years. I saw absolutely zero potential in it. I guess we were both wrong there.
  19. You need a 7/32" channel. Either get a 7/32" bit or do multiple passes with a smaller bit. I think it needs to be 7/16" deep. A router table comes in handy or you can use an edge guide. as mentioned a dab of silicone at the ends to secure it then a strip of tape to keep glue out of the channel when attaching the fretboard.
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