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Mitch

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About Mitch

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 12/16/1994

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  • Location
    Cumbria, UK
  1. It's basically a Jazz Bass setup. It will have 2 single-coil pickups, though I haven't chosen any particular model yet. The bridge will be just a standard hardtail. Since the top will be quite thin, I will glue a block under the bridge (not touching the back of the cavity) or leave a block of back wood under the bridge. I can't say I have ever had problems with a bass guitar feeding back before but then again, I have only ever played solid bodys.
  2. Hi everyone I am in the planning stages of a new 4-string bass build. I have based the design on a Fender Jazz Bass with a 1/4" to 1/2" thick, flat top (possibly western red cedar) and a hardwood back. Anyway, I want to heavily chamber the body to gain the warmer, more resonant tone of a hollow body but I am worried this may cause feedback issues. For this reason, I think it may be a good idea to incorporate a centre block, and this is my quandary, I'm not sure if I need to have a full-length centre block, a block only under the pickups or a block only under the bridge. I'm aware that there are various different causes of feedback (sympathetic resonance of the strings, microphonic pickups etc.) but I don't know which type is most likely to cause problems. Or will the top be thick enough to fully chamber and have no feedback issues? Would a full centre block still allow me the tone I am looking for? Thanks Mitch
  3. Oakie Doke 5 This is my second proper build but my last build before this was three years ago (I'm now 17 years old). I have come across many new things and learned a lot. Specs: All the wood except the veneer and the fretboard has been locally sourced and was grown within a few miles of where I live. Body: Burl oak top and sycamore back with a thin layer of cedar between Neck: 3 laminates of cherry (the centre laminate is from a different tree hence the colour difference) Fretboard: Indian rosewood with spalted beech inlay 34" scale length 5 strings (BEADG) Through-neck 24 frets 10" radius Chrome hardware 3-layer bound fretboard My own body shape design Seymour Duncan Basslines Phase II pickup Volume control Tone control with push/pull to switch between 2 different capacitor values (one is a standard tone control, one has a high cutoff point to subtly smooth out the sound) Second tone control (with very low cutoff point)
  4. Hi everyone! It has been a little while since I last posted as I took a 2 or 3 year break from guitar making. I'm 17 now and hopefully my gain in patience will more than compensate for my forgetting of knowledge. It's great to be back! Anyway, I'm building a 5-string electric bass at the moment and I'm mapping out the fretboard to find what shape I need to cut it to. On basses, the standard gap between the outer edge of the string and the edge of the fretboard is 4mm. I was wondering if anyone has ever tried making a tapered gap, maybe a 3mm gap at the nut to a 5mm gap at the 12th fret. It would make sense as, near the nut, the string is less likely to slip off the edge of the fretboard. Thanks for your help. Mitch
  5. Would higher resistance effect how well it stops buzzing or is the resistance to small to make any difference? I dont think soldered copper tape has nearly that much resistance.
  6. I Searched copper tape and it came up with loads of stuff. Some for making guitars and some for repelling slugs. Same thing though. http://shop.ebay.com/copper%20tape?_from=R...tape&_naf=1 EDIT: I wouldn't reccomend getting less than 6ft for 1 guitar.
  7. The slug tape is inexpensive do you have the brand name available. It would be nice to have a cheaper source. Also I have seen aluminum shielding tape. All electronics has some Look here 36 yards 2" wide for a good price. If you don't have to solder the shielding together you don't need to solder. The point at which you attach your pot to the body becomes the ground connection to the shielding tape. They have other sizes as well. Err. Ebay brand. Mine cost about £4 including postage for 4 metres of 1.5" wide roll. The price has gone down since then though. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SLUG-TAPE-COPPER-TAP...Q2em118Q2el1247 I think that's the one I bought. I think the adhesive should be conductive on all slug tape because if it's not then it wouldnt work. I'm not sure how it works but aparently when the slugs slodge (what word do you use for a moving slug?) onto it it gives them a tingle which is like when aluminium foil touches a metal filling in your mouth or something. Anyway. Even if the adhesive isn't conductive you can just solder the bits together like i did just in case. It shouldn't take you 5 minutes.
  8. I did use dye. I sanded most of it off though so it just stayed in the grain. dayvo: Very clean looking build and very nice deep shiny finish. I think it could have done with a bit more of a carve though and It would have been nice if it wasn't so heavily based on a les paul so there was a bit more originality. Jaden: Nice build. The maple has turned out well though I personally wouldn't have chosen that colour and the head shape is a bit weird(Like mine I suppose). avengers63: Nice top wood and I love the headstock inlay as well. I am undecided whether I like the blue or not. I don't really like the colour of the back plate. low end fuzz: Good all round build and I really like the headstock inlay. All that browny colour just looks a bit odd. I can't put my finger on it. I think there is just a bit too much going on with all those laminates. chops1983: Amazing guitar, Got my vote. It's kinda like a modern variation on a classic archtop design with the body shape and reverse headstock and i love it. Clean, nice wood, great finish, A lot better than my second build is! (mitch-o-caster) I would change the knobs though.
  9. I looked up the slug tape which was a good idea.. Except you want a conductive adhesive to make sure the tape makes a complete circuit. I guess a bit of solder will connect the strips, but is it worth it. I picked up some conductive paint finally and I believe it will go much further than any tape roll so the cost is relative to the amount of shielding you get. I tested the tape with a multimeter and the adhesive is conductive. I was suprised at how much tape i used for my build (about 2 and a half meters) so yeah. It probably does work out about the same. But i was just trying to show that things not designed for building guitars can be used to build guitars
  10. This is my second guitar and first GOTM entry. I call this guitar: The Mitch-o-caster Uk cherry and UK sycamore laminated neck. UK ash wings Indian rosewood fingerboard 7mm Paua abalone dot inlays 25.5" scale length 22 medium wide frets A fairly fat neck Through neck Wrapover bridge 1.5" thick body Kent armstrong humbuckers with coil tap 1 master volume, 2 tones and a blend pot Bound fingerboard and head Carved top, belly carve an "M" carve on the top horn French polish Gotoh tuners Chrome hardware
  11. if you want a cheaper option than sheilding paint you can use sticky backed copper sheilding tape which you should be able to get from gardening stores fairly cheaply (though it would probably be called slug tape).
  12. Loving the inlays on the new one!!
  13. Here in the uk (seen it in homebase) they sell plasti-cote crackle paint in spray cans in a few different colours.
  14. Yeah, what foil1more said. You are usually better off leaving mistakes like that. Trying to cover mistakes up can often make them worse. 100th post!!! Yeeeeeeaaaaaaah!!!!!
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