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MuffinPunch

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Everything posted by MuffinPunch

  1. I asked the guys in the shop at school for advice in filling those cracks and I got a whole bunch of different responses as well. So I took a varied approach; one that Im already counting on getting a lot of grief from you guys about... But for my purposes it worked out perfect. I went with a thick CA (Slow ZAP) and drizzled many layers into the end grain of the split area. The fumes dont bother me, but it took a good hour of drizzling. Then after sanding the area down using a combination of belt, spindle, and random orbital sanders to reveal the air pockets within the cracks, I simply finished it off with wood putty and more sanding by hand. Smooth as silk! Not pretty to look at, I admit. But as I will be painting this one anyway and its main purpose is to be the pattern for my silicone mould, Im perfectly happy with it. I also took some time to shape the heel contour a bit. Man Prostheta, you were'nt kidding about keeping the body still with a sabre style carve on both sides! This thing wobbles like a Weebles no matter what side you have it on! I would have had my work cut out for me trying to do this all by hand! Tomorrow- the CORES!
  2. Would you suggest the epoxy instead then? Or thin CA rather than medium?
  3. I hadnt needed to think about this until now, but would it be advisable to finish shaping the body and sand blast the recessed graphic into the front before I attempt to fill the split gaps? I just worry that the dried CA (or whatever I end up using) will hold up better to sand blasting than the alder around it, leaving "veins" in that area of the graphic. I had originally planned to finish this body using waterborne automotive base coat over polyester primer, and topped with automotive clear. Im not opposed to doing it differently though. I have even speculated on the idea of using a powder coating. I like the idea of finishing this in a non-traditional way as this is a relatively non tradition approach to guitar building already, but Im not sure what limitations are inherent in the materials im using. Any Help?
  4. Im usually not a huge fan of guitars that are all made of fancy, spalted woods, but this thing is AMAZING!
  5. This was never meant to be sold. It is just a prototype. My bet is that it occurred because of a combination of the factors you all have mentioned. There was no sign of issues on the blank itself, aside from the obvious knots, prior to this. (Not that I would really know what to look for... ) Unfortunately I wasnt there to monitor The cutting process either. I submitted my digital file and my material with explicit instructions in case I wasn't, by I didnt foresee something like this. I think Ill go with the medium CA approach. I hate sanding epoxy!
  6. Got the body cut today. I didnt realize Alder was so temperamental under the mill... Or maybe I just got a bad piece. I had some serious splitting occur at the butt end of the body. I was so careful to make sure the cutter avoided all the gnarly knots in the wood, but there was no way of knowing this was hiding in there. Is this something that can be corrected with grain filler, or will it require more work than that? The body will be painted opaque, so Im not worried about it showing through the finish or anything. Just want to get it smooth as glass before I cast it in the mould.
  7. I cant help but wonder why you would want to do a Christmas theme in June... Green and Red?
  8. Looking good! You may have already gone over this somewhere in the thread, but your neck heels are quite a bit deeper than a traditional tele, aren't they? Im getting ready to start shaping my Strat necks (oops, San Dimas necks) and from what Ive understood, the heel depth is pretty close to the same thickness of the neck with a slight taper up to the head, about 3/4". Nothing wrong with doing it differently, just wanna make sure Im understanding it correctly. Aren't Strat and Tele necks pretty similar in shape?
  9. Body blanks glued up. Gotta get new neck blanks cut. Stupid miscalculation... Got my truss rods and fretwire in today and the fretboards are on order along with the abalone dots.
  10. More progress today! Got the neck lams all glues up today as well as the body blank. Should be on the CNC by next Wednesday. I also got my fretwire, nuts, and truss rods in. The rest is on its way...
  11. Thanks, at some point I would like to make one like that. Ive never been a big fan of playing Vs, they just feel a bit awkward to me. For some reason all of my guitar design come out very goth... Im not at all gothic, but I guess im just drawn to that aesthetic.
  12. Thanks. I agree with both of you. Im hoping the graphic engraving will draw some of the focus away from the innards. I also plan to "frost" the engraving and inside of the control cavity if not the entire back of the guitar. I hope to get all my wood laminated up this week, so Ill have the body blank ready for the CNC by next weekend, and I can start shaping the neck(s) by hand.
  13. Thats hot! I love the back carve. In general, I prefer a blood red, or trans black finish for almost everything, but I cant deny that this one looks like it should be natural!
  14. Spent some time today on the CAD file. I decided to go with a 1 1/4" deep core and a 1/2" back to the body. Even though the body wont be bearing any of the load from the string tension, 1/4" was just too skinny. This way Ill at least have enough space to countersink the bolts in the back. FIrst in clear Then in black I didnt model the graphic into the model because Im going to "etch" that part out with the sandblaster. These were done in SolidWorks. My first time using the software, bit of a learning curve for me, but these will suffice. Itll be trickier building the core... Should have this on the mill by next week hopefully!!!
  15. Ive inquired of some of the guys on here who make custom fretboards, but the prices seem to be a little steep for me unfortunately. StewMac sells Maple ones with a compound radius for $16, and Ebony ones for $45. Seems like a pretty good deal compared to what custom ones go for.
  16. I got the wood for this and my San Dimas project finally! The lumber pile Alder body plank walnut and maple neck lams I decided to go with a 7 piece laminated core 1.5" deep (thick) to go with my 7 string configuration. I also think I will make them both a 26.5" scale rather than the 25.5" I originally had chosen. Im debating whether or not its would be necessary to add carbon neck reinforcements due to the added tension of the extra string and longer scale. Any insight? Things should really start progressing very quickly now. I ordered the rest of my shaping tools, truss rods, nuts, and fret wire today. I dont really have time to slot my own fretboards unfortunately so Im in the market for one maple, one ebony 7 string 26.5" scale fetboards if any of you know where I can get them done for a reasonable price. I know there are guys on here that make a living that way, so hopefully someone can step up to the plate and help me out here! More pics to come!
  17. Finally bought the wood for this and my seven string project. Raw lumber from the yard including the stuff for my other project. The alder plank. The maple neck blanks the alder is a bit knotty, but I should be able to work around those spots fairly easily. Things will progress very quickly at first, but I dont think ill be finishing this for a while after I get the basics done. I also bought my shaping tools, fret wire and truss rods. Im looking into the fretboards. Im going use a compound radius, but Im not really up to trying to tackle that on my own so Ill probably end up ordering them from StewMac and adding the inlay dots myself.
  18. Ive seen that before. At school I think. The guy who designed it graduated from my school 4-5 years ago and left the original prototype mounted on one of the walls for a while. Ive been looking for his websight forever! Thanks man. I was referring to copywright regulations and similar issues when I mentiond the patents, because I was sure I wasnt the first to think of this.
  19. Thanks. Yeah thats exactly what i had in mind. Initially I was picturing this on a much larger scale, like for distribution in major guitar dealers (in theory), but like I said, I dont know if theres even a market for his kind of guitar or if people would chose to order this as opposed to a standard bolt on or neck thru guitar considering the price wouldnt be that much different if I was doing it all by hand. If it caught on tho, i might find myself in the guitar making business after all! Of course then Id need to start worrying about patents and all that political bs...
  20. I think if they were not in too close proximity and they were relatively weak magnets it wouldnt have any noticeable effect on the pickups, but I dont know for sure. Hopefully youll be seeing that sawdust a lot sooner than you think! Of course ive been saying that about my IM San Dimas for over 2 months now and I havent even shopped for wood yet...
  21. Thanks. Exactly the kind of response I was looking for. I still have to work out the electronics issues. I would really like to be able offer a core with a three pick-up configuration that would still compatible with the standard electronics setup of the bodies. Is there a feasible way of doing that? Maybe all bodies come with dormant female connections for a 3rd pickup which are only employed when the core is equipped with a third pickup and female connector? I may be getting into circuit programming territory here, which im really not interested in. I have a very basic understanding of guitar electronics, but no experience in creating "experimental" configurations. If i cant figure out how to do it, I will just leave that aspect "theoretical" and use standard wiring for the sake of completing the project for school. I really like that idea. Dont know why it didnt cross my mind before. I could rout around the pickups and bridge on the top surface of the core so a scratch plate like element could fit flush to the body mimicking the surface/finish. It would really be that hard to do. I guess I was thinking more about being able to quickly change bodies in between songs during a gig without having to mess around with screws and stuff. It could magnetically attach tho.
  22. Ok, well since this is an ever evolving idea and nothing physical has happened yet, I dont feel too bad throwing another wrench into the mix. The wild idea i had about making a purely "artistic" non-player version of this guitar is being scrapped. The guitar has become more conceptual in nature. Basically, the idea is now to have a guitar "core" which contains all major elements (headstock, tuners, nut,neck/fretboard, pickups, bridge, etc.) which bolts into an interchangable body variant made out of different materials which contains the other essential components (volume/tone controls, pickup selectors, output jack, etc.) The electronics would be connected via quick-connect sockets a la EMG prior to connecting the neck. This would afford the player different body shape, color, chambering, and tone material options for a single instrument, as opposed to gigging with or owning several complete instruments. Ideal for the garage band player w/o tons of money to spend on lots of gear or someone who has limited space for storage. The same concept could be applied to a bass guitar. Ideally, the manufacturer (me) could offer 3-4 core options (material/wood variations, headstock shape, pickup type/placement, and bridge type, number of strings, etc.) that are equally compatible with all 5-10 body designs, providing a model line of 30-40 different guitars. I made these project boards for school: Because the core will be a different finish than the body when used in most combinations, the truss rod cover would be made to match the finish on the body. I intend on building the black and gold variant and the clear one from before as my "deliverables" for school. I might make other bodies for it in the future... I will be making the cores by hand and machining the body blank as was intended originally. I dont know if theres actually a market for something like this but it will be interesting to see the public reaction. The next step is actually making this thing, but there are a few vital points that need to be worked out before I start cutting: What is the minimum body thickness I would need to leave in the cavity for the core to be bolted thru in order to maintain complete rigidity? I wouldn't think it would need to be all that thick given the fact that all the pressure bearing leads would be taken by the core itself. The idea is to bolt the core in from the back of the body using threaded inserts. Let me know if you have any ideas or advice for me. Thanks!
  23. Truthfully, im no metal worker either. Ive got a tiny bit of welding and lathe experience, but nothing to give me the confidence that I could actually do this myself. I suffer from wanting to learn EVERYTHING and not have the time to learn anything... Im attempting to change that tho. Ideally the CAD data I come up with could be taken to a machine shop and the labor could be done by a professional (or a machine) if I do it right. I will be making the plastic parts myself tho. I will SLA (stereo lithograph) the components individually using the digital data, make moulds of each piece, and cast the pieces in resin by hand. I will then have to trim away the "flash" to clean them up, and assemble them as if they were metal. I will use metal screws and bolts wherever necessary. The whole idea is scaring the crap out of me but its really exciting. I really would like to find a resource where I can learn everything there is to know about guitar bridges, so please let me know if you know of one! Thanks in advance!
  24. Man, do you sell any of your builds? You must have an entire wing in your house to hold all of the guitars you've built by now! beautiful work as usual Mark!
  25. I dont know if it was intentional but thats a great pic! looks like a studio shot with that lighting and everything... I tend to notice those kinds of things, sorry. This should be a cool build. Cant wait to see it come together.
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