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Entry for October 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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Everything posted by MuffinPunch

  1. First signs of this project actually materializing! I spent the day in the shop and made some real progress. I got my templates all laser cut. Took about 4 min. and cost me a total of $7. Beats buying them online! (besides the fact that you cant find strat templates with a FR rout) Then I traced and rough cut the bodies on the band saw. Finished off by cleaning the edges up on the router table using a brand new bit! I was hoping to get the cavities all milled today, but the equipment was being monopolized by another student all afternoon. Ill get that done next week while my scarf joints on the 7 strings dry. Shop is closed till monday or Id be doing it tomorrow... Ive also decided to add a faux skunk stripe TR patch on the back of the necks with some left over walnut. Ill be installing double action rods from the front of the neck under the FB with the adjustment nut at the heel, so call me cheesy if you want to. It wouldnt surprise me if the original was done the same way though, as it uses a 2 piece neck/fingerboard, but still has a skink stripe. I havent really looked into it. Happy 4th everyone!
  2. Started on the cores today. First of all, I laser cut my template on 1/4" masonite. Then I rough cut my neck profile and the angle for my HS scarf. I think I want to add a maple accent piece in the scarf now. Well see. Just for fun I wedged the template into the body cavity and put the pups in place to see what it would look like. I love the profile of the new extended housing EMG pups. very clean. Also, I actually like the contrasting dark core against the pale Alder. The final product will have a similar effect hopefully, only inverted. Shop is closed till monday, so I guess Ill take a little break on this project, celebrate my independence or something...
  3. Miten olet mieltynyt Suomi? I agree though this becoming a good guitar. Hey, lets keep the inside jokes to a minimum. I dont speak Finnish (guessing).
  4. Thats a good point. I honestly couldnt say. I bought the bit to cut my battle axe guitar and it hasnt seen any use since, but that maple was HARD! It wouldnt surprise me if it dulled the blade.
  5. Did you ever figure this out KP? This is a pretty good tutorial, but its a somewhat primitive use of a very sophisticated software. Photoshop includes many tools that make this^ much easier and much more efficient. A simple alternative to the first ten steps of this tutorial is to: 1. Open you guitar image in Photoshop. Select>All(ctrl+A, or command+A on a Mac), Edit>Cut(ctrl+X), Edit>Paste(ctrl+V) to get the image of the guitar on its own layer. 2. (If your image is not oriented with the body to the left and the HS to the right you can use Image>Rotate Canvas to get it there) Go to Image>Canvas Size and set the canvas to about 42" wide and 14" tall. Most guitars will fit within these dimensions. 3. Make sure you are on the layer containing the image of the guitar then: Edit>Free Transform(ctrl+T). Hold Shift to constrain the proportions +Alt to scale from the center of the image, then drag one of the corners until the guitar fits comfortably on the canvas with a little breathing room. 4. (If rulers are not turned on go to Window>Show Rulers) Drag a guideline from the top ruler through the center of the guitar (between the D and G string on a sixer) Now drag another guidline from the left to the scale point of the bridge (saddle+string intersection). 5. Drag the Zero point of the rulers to the point at which these guides intersect by clicking the box in the upper left corner where the rulers connect. Now drag a guideline to the length of your scale (in this case 24.75") from the left. 6.Once again, make sure you are on the layer with the guitar image and: Edit>Free Transform(ctrl+T). Hold shift+alt while you scale and reposition the image until both the nut and the bridge are lined up with the corresponding guides. You now have a full size image of your guitar! With a little practice you can complete these six steps in a matter of 30 seconds or less. I would then save file as a jpeg and open it in Adobe Illustrator to outline using the pen tool, then Tile Print in full size, which takes a bit longer. But I advise that the most time be spent on looking for a good image to work off in the first place. One way to compensate for the HS angle is to then use the rectangle marquee tool in Photoshop to drag a box around the HS (being careful that the edge lines up exactly with the back of the nut) then Edit>Free Transform, click the middle point of the right hand virtical and drag it to non-proportionally scale the HS until the tuner pegs are more or less perfect circles. A way to check this is to use the elipse tool while holding shift to make a selection about the size of the tuner bushing and use it as an overlay. This is not the most accurate way to do it, but the outcome will usually be too close visually for the untrained eye to spot. Personally, I much prefer to use Adobe Illustrator for template making, as it is a vector based application and is therefore infinitely more accurate with dimensions. Also, vector files can be read by a laser cutter.
  6. I asked the guys in the shop at school for advice in filling those cracks and I got a whole bunch of different responses as well. So I took a varied approach; one that Im already counting on getting a lot of grief from you guys about... But for my purposes it worked out perfect. I went with a thick CA (Slow ZAP) and drizzled many layers into the end grain of the split area. The fumes dont bother me, but it took a good hour of drizzling. Then after sanding the area down using a combination of belt, spindle, and random orbital sanders to reveal the air pockets within the cracks, I simply finished it off with wood putty and more sanding by hand. Smooth as silk! Not pretty to look at, I admit. But as I will be painting this one anyway and its main purpose is to be the pattern for my silicone mould, Im perfectly happy with it. I also took some time to shape the heel contour a bit. Man Prostheta, you were'nt kidding about keeping the body still with a sabre style carve on both sides! This thing wobbles like a Weebles no matter what side you have it on! I would have had my work cut out for me trying to do this all by hand! Tomorrow- the CORES!
  7. Would you suggest the epoxy instead then? Or thin CA rather than medium?
  8. I hadnt needed to think about this until now, but would it be advisable to finish shaping the body and sand blast the recessed graphic into the front before I attempt to fill the split gaps? I just worry that the dried CA (or whatever I end up using) will hold up better to sand blasting than the alder around it, leaving "veins" in that area of the graphic. I had originally planned to finish this body using waterborne automotive base coat over polyester primer, and topped with automotive clear. Im not opposed to doing it differently though. I have even speculated on the idea of using a powder coating. I like the idea of finishing this in a non-traditional way as this is a relatively non tradition approach to guitar building already, but Im not sure what limitations are inherent in the materials im using. Any Help?
  9. Im usually not a huge fan of guitars that are all made of fancy, spalted woods, but this thing is AMAZING!
  10. This was never meant to be sold. It is just a prototype. My bet is that it occurred because of a combination of the factors you all have mentioned. There was no sign of issues on the blank itself, aside from the obvious knots, prior to this. (Not that I would really know what to look for... ) Unfortunately I wasnt there to monitor The cutting process either. I submitted my digital file and my material with explicit instructions in case I wasn't, by I didnt foresee something like this. I think Ill go with the medium CA approach. I hate sanding epoxy!
  11. Got the body cut today. I didnt realize Alder was so temperamental under the mill... Or maybe I just got a bad piece. I had some serious splitting occur at the butt end of the body. I was so careful to make sure the cutter avoided all the gnarly knots in the wood, but there was no way of knowing this was hiding in there. Is this something that can be corrected with grain filler, or will it require more work than that? The body will be painted opaque, so Im not worried about it showing through the finish or anything. Just want to get it smooth as glass before I cast it in the mould.
  12. I cant help but wonder why you would want to do a Christmas theme in June... Green and Red?
  13. Looking good! You may have already gone over this somewhere in the thread, but your neck heels are quite a bit deeper than a traditional tele, aren't they? Im getting ready to start shaping my Strat necks (oops, San Dimas necks) and from what Ive understood, the heel depth is pretty close to the same thickness of the neck with a slight taper up to the head, about 3/4". Nothing wrong with doing it differently, just wanna make sure Im understanding it correctly. Aren't Strat and Tele necks pretty similar in shape?
  14. Body blanks glued up. Gotta get new neck blanks cut. Stupid miscalculation... Got my truss rods and fretwire in today and the fretboards are on order along with the abalone dots.
  15. More progress today! Got the neck lams all glues up today as well as the body blank. Should be on the CNC by next Wednesday. I also got my fretwire, nuts, and truss rods in. The rest is on its way...
  16. Thanks, at some point I would like to make one like that. Ive never been a big fan of playing Vs, they just feel a bit awkward to me. For some reason all of my guitar design come out very goth... Im not at all gothic, but I guess im just drawn to that aesthetic.
  17. Thanks. I agree with both of you. Im hoping the graphic engraving will draw some of the focus away from the innards. I also plan to "frost" the engraving and inside of the control cavity if not the entire back of the guitar. I hope to get all my wood laminated up this week, so Ill have the body blank ready for the CNC by next weekend, and I can start shaping the neck(s) by hand.
  18. Thats hot! I love the back carve. In general, I prefer a blood red, or trans black finish for almost everything, but I cant deny that this one looks like it should be natural!
  19. Spent some time today on the CAD file. I decided to go with a 1 1/4" deep core and a 1/2" back to the body. Even though the body wont be bearing any of the load from the string tension, 1/4" was just too skinny. This way Ill at least have enough space to countersink the bolts in the back. FIrst in clear Then in black I didnt model the graphic into the model because Im going to "etch" that part out with the sandblaster. These were done in SolidWorks. My first time using the software, bit of a learning curve for me, but these will suffice. Itll be trickier building the core... Should have this on the mill by next week hopefully!!!
  20. Ive inquired of some of the guys on here who make custom fretboards, but the prices seem to be a little steep for me unfortunately. StewMac sells Maple ones with a compound radius for $16, and Ebony ones for $45. Seems like a pretty good deal compared to what custom ones go for.
  21. I got the wood for this and my San Dimas project finally! The lumber pile Alder body plank walnut and maple neck lams I decided to go with a 7 piece laminated core 1.5" deep (thick) to go with my 7 string configuration. I also think I will make them both a 26.5" scale rather than the 25.5" I originally had chosen. Im debating whether or not its would be necessary to add carbon neck reinforcements due to the added tension of the extra string and longer scale. Any insight? Things should really start progressing very quickly now. I ordered the rest of my shaping tools, truss rods, nuts, and fret wire today. I dont really have time to slot my own fretboards unfortunately so Im in the market for one maple, one ebony 7 string 26.5" scale fetboards if any of you know where I can get them done for a reasonable price. I know there are guys on here that make a living that way, so hopefully someone can step up to the plate and help me out here! More pics to come!
  22. Finally bought the wood for this and my seven string project. Raw lumber from the yard including the stuff for my other project. The alder plank. The maple neck blanks the alder is a bit knotty, but I should be able to work around those spots fairly easily. Things will progress very quickly at first, but I dont think ill be finishing this for a while after I get the basics done. I also bought my shaping tools, fret wire and truss rods. Im looking into the fretboards. Im going use a compound radius, but Im not really up to trying to tackle that on my own so Ill probably end up ordering them from StewMac and adding the inlay dots myself.
  23. Ive seen that before. At school I think. The guy who designed it graduated from my school 4-5 years ago and left the original prototype mounted on one of the walls for a while. Ive been looking for his websight forever! Thanks man. I was referring to copywright regulations and similar issues when I mentiond the patents, because I was sure I wasnt the first to think of this.
  24. Thanks. Yeah thats exactly what i had in mind. Initially I was picturing this on a much larger scale, like for distribution in major guitar dealers (in theory), but like I said, I dont know if theres even a market for his kind of guitar or if people would chose to order this as opposed to a standard bolt on or neck thru guitar considering the price wouldnt be that much different if I was doing it all by hand. If it caught on tho, i might find myself in the guitar making business after all! Of course then Id need to start worrying about patents and all that political bs...
  25. I think if they were not in too close proximity and they were relatively weak magnets it wouldnt have any noticeable effect on the pickups, but I dont know for sure. Hopefully youll be seeing that sawdust a lot sooner than you think! Of course ive been saying that about my IM San Dimas for over 2 months now and I havent even shopped for wood yet...
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