ScottR

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About ScottR

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  • Birthday 12/10/1958

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    Houston, TX
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  1. I wondered if that would get noticed. I sealed the ends of that log with several coats of shellac when I first got it. SR
  2. First decide if you want your strings spaced evenly between their centers or to have even spaces between them. If you are spacing on three centers, just decide the amount of space you want from the outside strings to the fretboard edge, subtract that from your nut width and devide by 5. Even width gaps require a little more math. Add the string widths up and subtract the total from you nut length. Also subtract the amount you want on the edges of you fretboard. What remains is the amount of space left for your gaps, so devide that by 5. I like to make a spacer out of scrap at that width and use that as a fret file guide. SR
  3. Welcome Mateyboy! A poplar body is going to be fairly light so a good neck choice would be mahogany or maple. Walnut and cherry would work well too. You'd be amazed at how many varieties of wood have been used successfully for necks...for the whole guitar actually. If you've already carved a couple of bodies, you will likely find carving a neck to be very enjoyable. I'm looking forward to watching your build...and since you asked- Good Luck! SR
  4. Thanks Mike. I gotta admit it feels good to have another one of these going. SR
  5. Oil will give you a nice satin look, but offers pretty much no protection beyond sealing. Satin polyurethane will do so as well and offer protection, but you need a very smooth final coat to avoid witness lines from leveling cutting through coats. SR
  6. Welcome Pariahrob. I'm looking forward to seeing your builds and hearing your opinions of the doings in here. Cheers! SR
  7. This time I'm going to model the carving in clay first. Starting with the basic log shape in proportion. From that I remove clay to leave the first stage of roughing in the shape. And then move on to removing bits of ash that are not Cody. SR
  8. I have a little dog named Cody. Early in his life, when he was just a pup, so to speak he looked like this. For nearly as long, I've had an ash log drying in the garage. As Cody got older his color started looking more and more like the ash log. And for some time now that log has been telling me I need to find Cody in there and set him free. The thing is Cody no longer looks like that scruffy little puppy. He looks more like a cross between a tiny haystack and an unsheared mountain sheep. So the Cody I find in the log might just be more inspired by my little dog than what he looks like just now. He may still have some of the attributes of puppy Cody. Or he may not. We'll just have to see when I get him out of the log. SR
  9. Excellent job on some very twiddly work. I'm pretty sure that would have made my eyeballs twitch. SR
  10. That's awesome! Congratulations. I recognize the shadow of your head from your avatar. SR
  11. You gotta love em! SR
  12. You can apply a sealer to the edge of your koa top to help protect it against stain. It kind of leaves you with the same issue though. You'll need to protect the back against getting any sealer on it. SR
  13. These guys are giving you good advice. It has been my experience that you almost always never move a saddle closer to the nut to intonate. so you do want to leave yourself the bulk of the adjustment range moving away from the nut. I do occasionally find that I get a little drill bit deflection when drilling pilot holes for my bridge screws. Then the countersunk heads move it ever so slightly from where I marked it. Not so much too be out of position, but enough that I might need to move the high E saddle a turn or so closer to the nut. to be at the proper scale length. 75% is probably too far away...85% is probably closer to where I start. do check your own bridge and see how much adjustment you have. SR
  14. Try asking on Beer Advocate. I've seen other questions answered there. SR