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ScottR last won the day on June 24

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About ScottR

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  • Birthday 12/10/1958

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    Houston, TX
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  1. 'twould be a rather long wait,,,,, And talk about making promises you don't have to keep. If only I could get her to promise to spend the night in December.... SR
  2. If I were doing that, I'd wipe on the stain, then selectively wipe it away with solvent leaving the distressed look. Then shoot satin or matte polyurethane over that. SR
  3. I never picked up on the Italian similarities before. Now I always will. Looking forward to seeing your logo in action. SR
  4. I usually use small brads. These were a better fit and no worries about cutting through them. SR
  5. Down here halfway to the equator from where you are, sunset is considered a promiscuous holiday. SR sunrise too....
  6. If you are going to dye and sand back anyway, just look at these areas as having a head start. Odds are those are pores with dye in them and then sealed with whatever finish you used. You can use what ever solvent goes with the finish...but if it is polyurethane, odds are that is going to be paint stripper. I'd just consider it a head start if it were me. SR
  7. I like to drill the tuner holes before cutting the headstock to its final thickness.....like I ever do that. Those of you with pristine organised shops can just bite me! I 've got a squeezed little corner of the garage and I fill it up and use it. I've been squaring up edges after rough cutting the neck. It's a little tough to tell where the cocobolo stops and the rosewood begins... SR
  8. Routed the truss rod channel. Both sides. I had a little eighth inch dowel laying around and decided to use that for pins to locate my fretboard for gluing. I like to cover the slot with some trimmed back scotch tape prior to adding glue. Glued up the fretboard (and skipped the obligatory clamp forest shot), added a burl headstock plate and separated the Siamese twin necks. SR
  9. It is a little easier, yes. I recommend leaving some small amount of leveling till after the third week though. There will be enough shrinkage into pores that you'll need to still level out at that point anyway. Might as well be sure you have enough nitro over them to allow for that. SR
  10. I actually like to sand a grade or two after one week, a couple more after another week, and finish up after 3 weeks. In hot weather (something you get Mike, not so much for Ash) the surface can dry so fast that it traps the solvents underneath. Breaking the surface after a week helps any of those that may be trapped escape. (outgas). SR
  11. I do this over the course of a week, so say 15 -21 coats. Mind you, this is just my preference. There is no magic number. I like a thicker layer for ease of leveling and for the help it gives in pore filling. If you have a good non shrinking pore filler under the nitro you can easily go with less coats. Nitro does 90%V to 95% of its shrinking in the first 2 or 3 weeks of curing after spraying your last coat., but it keeps shrinking that last 5% for several more months. If you've got a solid job of pore filling under it that last 5% is no problem. If not, you are likely to see where the surface dipped slightly into the pores several month later. It will still be shiny as hell and those dimples will only be visible when viewed at just the right angle....but it's good to be aware of what happens. And a final note on my preference for a thicker coat, I just love the added depth it gives to the figured wood underneath. SR
  12. After spraying a couple of light dust coats, I generally spray 3 wet coats a day, with 15-20 minutes between them. Trapping solvents is not a problem between coats as those very solvents are what allow the coats to melt together into one. Trapping moisture will show up as blush, and that is not such a good thing, but there are remedies for it. Spraying too heavy a coat can trap solvent within that coat and create solvent pops--tiny bubbles that turn into pinhholes. These often show up in a run. Do not be afraid to spray too many coats.. They shrink and it is much easier to level a coat that is thicker than you want that one that is thin to begin with. SR
  13. Very nicely done Andy! You could name that Lazarus. After seeing the body wood with Tru-oil on it, I'm inclined to call it Alder. SR
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