ScottR

Moderator
  • Content count

    7,062
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    246

Everything posted by ScottR

  1. I wondered if that would get noticed. I sealed the ends of that log with several coats of shellac when I first got it. SR
  2. I have a little dog named Cody. Early in his life, when he was just a pup, so to speak he looked like this. For nearly as long, I've had an ash log drying in the garage. As Cody got older his color started looking more and more like the ash log. And for some time now that log has been telling me I need to find Cody in there and set him free. The thing is Cody no longer looks like that scruffy little puppy. He looks more like a cross between a tiny haystack and an unsheared mountain sheep. So the Cody I find in the log might just be more inspired by my little dog than what he looks like just now. He may still have some of the attributes of puppy Cody. Or he may not. We'll just have to see when I get him out of the log. SR
  3. First decide if you want your strings spaced evenly between their centers or to have even spaces between them. If you are spacing on three centers, just decide the amount of space you want from the outside strings to the fretboard edge, subtract that from your nut width and devide by 5. Even width gaps require a little more math. Add the string widths up and subtract the total from you nut length. Also subtract the amount you want on the edges of you fretboard. What remains is the amount of space left for your gaps, so devide that by 5. I like to make a spacer out of scrap at that width and use that as a fret file guide. SR
  4. Welcome Mateyboy! A poplar body is going to be fairly light so a good neck choice would be mahogany or maple. Walnut and cherry would work well too. You'd be amazed at how many varieties of wood have been used successfully for necks...for the whole guitar actually. If you've already carved a couple of bodies, you will likely find carving a neck to be very enjoyable. I'm looking forward to watching your build...and since you asked- Good Luck! SR
  5. Thanks Mike. I gotta admit it feels good to have another one of these going. SR
  6. Oil will give you a nice satin look, but offers pretty much no protection beyond sealing. Satin polyurethane will do so as well and offer protection, but you need a very smooth final coat to avoid witness lines from leveling cutting through coats. SR
  7. Welcome Pariahrob. I'm looking forward to seeing your builds and hearing your opinions of the doings in here. Cheers! SR
  8. This time I'm going to model the carving in clay first. Starting with the basic log shape in proportion. From that I remove clay to leave the first stage of roughing in the shape. And then move on to removing bits of ash that are not Cody. SR
  9. Excellent job on some very twiddly work. I'm pretty sure that would have made my eyeballs twitch. SR
  10. That's awesome! Congratulations. I recognize the shadow of your head from your avatar. SR
  11. You gotta love em! SR
  12. You can apply a sealer to the edge of your koa top to help protect it against stain. It kind of leaves you with the same issue though. You'll need to protect the back against getting any sealer on it. SR
  13. These guys are giving you good advice. It has been my experience that you almost always never move a saddle closer to the nut to intonate. so you do want to leave yourself the bulk of the adjustment range moving away from the nut. I do occasionally find that I get a little drill bit deflection when drilling pilot holes for my bridge screws. Then the countersunk heads move it ever so slightly from where I marked it. Not so much too be out of position, but enough that I might need to move the high E saddle a turn or so closer to the nut. to be at the proper scale length. 75% is probably too far away...85% is probably closer to where I start. do check your own bridge and see how much adjustment you have. SR
  14. Try asking on Beer Advocate. I've seen other questions answered there. SR
  15. Over the last few years, I've been exploring the craft brews that are sooooo much better than the old American stand bys we grew up with. No wonder the Europeans made fun of our weak bland beer.....but we had so few options back then. Not so now. Earlier this year Maul got me on a search for Pliny the Elder. I have not found it yet. It does not come to Texas. It does come to Colorado, and I conducted a search in Crested Butte while I was there. It turns out only one place there gets it from time to time and it goes fast. They told me the keg ran dry two days before I got there. I did learn that there are many great brews out there waiting to be tried.....there are over 2000 craft brewers in the states now. So happily I am trying all that look appealing. I thought those of us that appreciate this sort of thing could post up the stuff we run across to share with the others. Maybe I've tried something you saw but hadn't checked out yet and pass on my thoughts if so asked....and vice versa. So here's the first few that I've collected: Stone IPA Stone Ruination IPA Odells IPA--one of my favorites! Lagunitas IPA SR
  16. Three builders all loving () the paint on their guitars at the same time.....I believe you guys have started a movement! SR
  17. At which point some new element of unconventionality will have to be introduced.....just because. SR
  18. Cheers Retuos! I probably should have noticed this thread before my last response in your previous thread. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing develop. SR
  19. Exactly that. Assuming you are planning a 25" scale, adjust the high E saddle 75% to 80% of the way forward and line it up on that line you made 25" from the nut. Place the center point of the gap between the third and fourth saddles on the center line of the neck and body and your bridge is located properly. Wait until you have your neck in position on your body and verify all your measurements before you actually drill and screw holes. You can continue your build thread right here or start a new one; it's entirely up to you. some would prefer to have this discussion included in the build thread, as the information is relevant to the build. Others would prefer a clean start dusted with the sawdust of the first cuts. SR
  20. To my knowledge, it is not legal to mail it anywhere in the states. It seems a distributor's license (or something like that) is required. On the other hand, the postal service is not in the habit of opening anyone's mail, so it is quite possible to ship or mail beer....just not legal. I happen to know that it is done from time to time.... SR
  21. Thank you kindly, gentlemen. I'm rather pleased with it myself. SR
  22. This one is going to make Carl crazy. I don't know what this is going to look like. Okay, I have a vague idea....I've got a nice piece of myrtle burl coming for the top, And I know what my necks look like, so I'm starting by making a neck.I've made several necks out of one piece jatoba and several multi-ply necks. I like the look, feel and liveliness of the jatoba necks best. Thirteen or 14 years ago I stocked up on some crate timer that granite slabs from Brazil came in. They were jatoba that had obviously been logged and cut up wet and put to use as crates for the granite slabs to be shipped overseas in.They are thoroughly dried now but are very rough cut and twisted. I used the straightest pieces on earlier necks. What I've got left could be used as one piece necks, but won't give me as much headstock angle as I like so I'm going to glue a couple together and take advantage of the grain direction while I'm at it. I also decided to get me a nice low angle plane and surface these by hand. I'm not in any hurry..... Cleaning up the gluing surface. You've got to love the thin curls of slice wood from a sharp plane. Reward at the end of the first day. SR
  23. Yeah, to be unconventional is to be unique. To be unique is a worthwhile condition, at least in my book. SR
  24. You usually end up with a stair-step look. B is a little further back from the high E, G a little behind the B, A even with or a little in front of the G, D a little further back and likewise with the low E. You can set them up that way to begin with if you like, but you are going to move them all to intonate once the build is done, assembled and strung up. The only important thing to do first is get your bridge located properly for your scale length. SR