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Entry for August 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!

Sporky McGuffin

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About Sporky McGuffin

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  1. Shielded wire should be grounded at both ends, otherwise it acts less as a shield and more as an antenna. It's not difficult to demonstrate that connecting the shield at both ends results in better noise rejection than connecting it at only one end. The practice comes from the lazy way to solve a ground loop; this was picked up on by some of the less scrupulous cable manufacturers and sold as a virtue (pretty much anything used to sell cables is nonsense ). Connect it at both ends. Ideally there should be a central point for all those grounds to come back to - either the output jack or a star point.
  2. I sincerely hope your tools realise you're filming and are on their best behaviour. Personally I don't plug a power tool in unless I have the right kit on to protect my eyes, ears and lungs. I'm also unconvinced that a router table is inherently safer than a handheld - there are arguments both ways. A handheld router will often jog away from the workpiece if you ask too much of it; a router table will often try to do what you asked it, even if that results in the router bit biting deep into the workpiece, picking it up and throwing it at you. My router is "only" 1400W - not much compared to many out there, but that's still nearly two horsepower. Having seen the damage one horse can do to a person, I'd rather not give my router any opportunity to do anything silly. I've used it handheld and in a table setup and the worst damage has always been in the latter. Also worth remembering that it's a lot harder to get your hands near the bit operating a handheld router than a table router. Without wanting to sound like some sort of awful workshop calendar, the most dangerous tool in the workshop is the one you're using. Well, assuming that you're not leaving chisels stuck in holes in the floor.
  3. I understand that. I think two separate machines is the way to go. Best of luck!
  4. I feel your pain - I bought a used K2 3295 from a friend about 2-3 years ago - it's running beautifully now, but I went through a lot of unhappy times. It blew an encoder and that took out the motor driver. Trying to fix that I killed most of the black box controller - support from K2 was utterly non-existent. In the end I scrapped the original controller (very badly made and downright dangerous in some respects) and made a new one from scratch - the upshot is that I now completely understand how that part of the machine works so if anything else does go wrong I can put it right much more easily. Building your own really isn't either a bad idea nor that huge an undertaking, but I do see the appeal of buying ready-made. There comes a point though where you need to cut your losses and buy or build the right tool for the job.
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