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MiKro

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Everything posted by MiKro

  1. MiKro
    @henrim, I would think that if you have a sewing machine motor, say a Consew CSM 1000 or similar and have maybe the needle position set. If you enable the needle stop up or may be down to coincide with the baffle pointing out that would suffice. I hope that makes sense? You may have to have the actual positioner for that as well? That would be an add-on to the motor as a clutch I think. mk
  2. MiKro
    @Stu., I do have a question for you. Did you use metal inserts in the wood to screw down the linear rails and bearing blocks? I have a friend, whose son is wanting to build a Plywood CNC after seeing yours. Something I told him about last year was an option and keep cost down for now. DUH!! LOL!! MK
  3. MiKro
    Good for you on this build, at least you used decent linear rails and ball screws to start with. The Ply frame will give good service for wood working and also will give you a chance to really evaluate the CNC need and usage. The accuracy may suffer some due to the ply but with wood should be of no real problem. Make sure the Ply is sealed well even though it is painted. Kudos!!! ps I would move the electronics though as wood dust will get to it where they are now. MK
  4. MiKro
    I play them to make sure all is well, then sell them. Have yet to keep one for me. Also sold all of my factory guitars. There is one that I sold I wish I had kept though. That was my GOTM win in Nov 2008. I miss that one. mk
  5. MiKro
    Mike, I used to have the pleasure in having access to a friends wood working shop anytime I needed it , had my own key to the shop, about 20k sq ft. He had a drum sander to die for. It would handle a 6ft wide piece and would go down to a thickness of 1/8". It had roller in feed and out feed tables that were 12 ft long each. LOL!! A tornado took out the shop a few years back and he retired. Oh well. MK
  6. MiKro
    Mike, the tracking on mine was never an issue. The tripping of the breaker on it when I took more than 1/32" was a problem. Also keeping it parallel was an issue as most have only one side closed and the other open so they can do twice the width. I found that my 735 could do most of what I wanted to do, The CNC was also invaluable as was just good hand sanding. MK
  7. MiKro
    I got rid of my thickness sander. A Jet and it was torture all of the time. I still have a thickness planer that is used maybe twice a year only on things for the house. I do have a CNC router and use that for surface planing guitar wood. The use of a router on a sled would give you almost the exact type of finish. The hold back on that is you cannot control the feed rate consistently like you can with a CNC. That being said, using a router sled is a good idea and least expensive. Maybe adding a lead screw to that mix similar to a lathe on the long axis with a handle and even a more consistent feed rate could be achieved. Use at maximum a 1" to 1-1/2" dia bit at say 10k-12K max RPM for that purpose and taking shallow cuts. Just my 0.02 cents on this matter. mk
  8. MiKro
    No Life set in, and I have it partially done it is on the projects list though. mk
  9. MiKro
    No it is floating just like the resistor it replaced. One of the resistor ends terminates to ground originally. The pot makes a variable resistor, the fixed resistor is in case the pot fails then it fails hot which is what you want. mk.
  10. MiKro
    You can always use a small soldering torch for the wiring. mk
  11. MiKro
    I would need to see the schematic for your Amp, as far as the bias board just look at the schematic that is posted along with it. I do not have a picture of the back side. mk
  12. MiKro
    Been using steel pins for years Mike. I have 1/4" mainly. you just have to make sure they are not in the way of any cuts as a router bit will suffer big time if it hits it. If an end mill hits it it may or may not do well depending on DOC, end mill type , etc. LOL. It is good info to know though. MK
  13. MiKro
    So Mike, if this is a fretless Bass why the fret slots? I did not read the previous if it was stated there for whatever reason? MK
  14. MiKro
    Congrats on the GOTM Win Mike. mk
  15. MiKro
    No clue unless someone has biased it before? Was it set up originally for EL34 power tubes and changed to 6L6? That may be the reason as well. Also not knowing off of the top of my head what the resistance should be on the schematic, maybe they put them in series to get the correct resistance as they did not have the right one? I am only guessing now though. mk
  16. MiKro
    I had a long discussion about that very thing with Rob R as you said many put it at R127 and I was not positive. Rob R thought I was on the right track as well. LOL mk
  17. MiKro
    It is a trimpot that I had. Yes the insertion point was where R126 would be. On the schematic for the 1986 version may be different? Also not sure what tubes you use? if 6l6 then my values may not work as I was using EL 34 as my power tubes. It is a Round Trimming Potentiometer 1/2watt most likely I got it from Jameco or digikey. One more thing the Bias value shown on most of the schematics is wrong. Since this is a fixed biasing scheme on the cathode side, you are doing all 4 tubes at once not each individual tube. like many amps. Also most Carvin amps were biased towards the cold side . mk
  18. MiKro
    They are posted in the first page of this thread. Very easy to make. Post number 4 in the thread. BTW circuit was checked and verified by Rob Robinette mk
  19. MiKro
    Finally managed to get back in the shop today. Got the slots cut for the new stripes in the top as I am trying to salvage it. ugg!! MK
  20. MiKro
    While a miter saw is accurate it does not accommodate the angle you need without making a jig for it. mk
  21. MiKro
    Here maybe this will help. mk
  22. MiKro
    Lapsteels are cool. Did this one a while back for a friend. mk
  23. MiKro
    Looking good John. mk
  24. MiKro
    me too The beauty of this forum is no matter how long one has been at this game, there is always someone to bounce ideas off of. Thanks!! MK
  25. MiKro
    Yep that may work as well. Here is the idea using the center Larger maple and out stripes. I think instead if EIR will use the mahogany instead as this will lend to the finish of the body better. Image for stripe size comparision. left is 1" outers, right is 0.75" outers and mid is 0.875" mk
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