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Entry for October 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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About Moth

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  1. I gotta love me some redwood burl! Great build Simo! I also liked Tait's, and Jester's a lot! Beautiful work guys!
  2. It all really depends on what you want to do. This tutorial is much better for just making a body than anything else. Also keep in mind that from year to year, the body shapes may change. For example, a 60's SG will look pretty different from a modern one. Pickguards have changed, neck joints have changed, how far the neck goes into the body, position of the strap pins depending on if you're doing Iommi's model or not. That's my experience anyway. As stated in other threads (mostly progress threads), the Rhoads shape has changed too. So has the strat. Sam, you're correct in your way of doing it. The best way to build any guitar is to make it your own, especially since its a custom instrument no matter what way you look at it. If you're building it for non mass-productive purposes, then its custom. However if you don't want to do that, then this tutorial should help
  3. ***? Get over yourself. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=460448 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=459236 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=458314 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=456069 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=455970 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=454254 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=453450 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=453369 I like your glass house. Its shiny.
  4. He's following my posts and leaving passively derogatory comments because I suggested that sustainer people get along. *shrug* Whatever floats your boat I guess. Nice guitar btw!
  5. I see what u did there. You're stupid.
  6. I would ask what year guitar it came out of. If I recall correctly, the ZR system came out in 2006 or 7. My last review of a broken one was in late 2007. I haven't seen one come in since!
  7. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43246 Here's a rough version
  8. You know when you see a super sweet guitar and you want an almost exact copy of it, but you just can't figure out how to get it right? Well, here's how I would do it: First, find a picture of your dream guitar from an above view. Then you take your picture and open it in a photo editing program, like Adobe Photoshop, Paintshop pro, or any other type of photo editing program that allows you to adjust the size of your picture through percentage or preferably inches/cm/mm etc. I'm going to use Photoshop 7.0 in this example: Open your guitar picture. We're going to assume that the headstock is on the right and the rest of the body is on the left. Square out the space between the nut and bridge. Try to be as accurate as possible, and make sure you are between the nut and bridge, and not passed them or outside of them. Larger pictures help with the accuracy as they're clearer when you zoom into them. Crop Now you want to adjust the size of your cropped picture. We're going to go with a 24.75" scale length in this example, because that's my favorite scale. So go into image sizing, and set the width to measure out in inches. Make sure the height is in percentage mode. Also make sure that Auto Scaling is ON. Make the width 24.75". DON'T hit ENTER, or OK. Look at the percentage on the width. Remember this number, or write it down or something. Now, undo everything so that your picture is back to normal and you can see the entire guitar. Go back into the adjust image size menu popup thinger. Remember that percentage you wrote down or remembered hopefully? Make sure that the width or length menus are set for percentage and that auto scaling is on, and enter the percentage into one of them and hit OK or press ENTER. Congrats, you now have a full size image of your build. But how do you get it on paper? More so, how do you get it onto a piece of MDF to make a template out of it? Well, there's multiple ways to do it. You can save the image as a PDF, and bring it to Kinko's or Staples in a USB drive, and they'll print it out for under 5 dollars. I don't know how much it'll cost, because I've never done it that way, but supposedly that works. Or you can do it my way and zoom into the picture until the ruler on the side of the Photoshop screen is equal to a normal ruler. Then you can hold a big sheet of paper up to the screen and carefully trace your guitar out. Tablet PCs like mine are pretty handy for this. Big laptops are nice too… However way you do it is up to you. But after you get your full sized image, you can cut it out and trace it onto MDF or acrylic or whatever sheets and then carefully cut out your templates. Keep in mind that this will also replicate the width of the fingerboard. If you want a different neck shape, you'll have to adjust your templates, or adjust your carves during the build process. I recommend the ladder. Also keep in mind the legal stuff. You know... that whole legal thing that says stuff about copying other people's designs... Where if you do it, and make any sort of profit off of it, then its considered plagiarism, and lots of hard working creative individuals talk to you in a way that requires lawyers… and lubrication... Happy building! I'll update this with pictures sometime to make it easier for the basic end-user to understand! [edit] This tutorial allows you to make guitars to the scale of the scale length that you choose to play in. it'll look right, but if you have a pic of a 25.5" scale guitar, and you turn it into a 24.75", the whole body and everything will proportionally shrink... Knobs, switches, and bridges will look bigger, too. Tuners may not fit properly either. If you wish to make your guitar to true specifications, then do some research and figure out the scale length of the original guitar you're copying.
  9. I've had a few ZR trems come in because the part that holds the barrings in near the trem arm had cracked. Upon further research, it turned out that was the most common problem with the trems. However, that was a few years ago, and quality control has probably improved since then.
  10. that kitchen oil sprayer looks pretty nifty!
  11. +1. I don't know how many times I've explained that here. I don't mind explaining it, but a tutorial would be nice. Carving and contouring for beginners would be pretty cool too. Like, drawing your depth on the edge of the body and then drawing the start of the slope on the face of the body. Simple stuff like that. What i'd really like to see is the missing pictures or a redo of the finishing tutorials that Lex Luthier posted. Same goes for a neckthrough tutorial that includes clamping, as I've never seen anything like that, and I'm sure a lot of people have questions on weather to clamp before you carve the body parts out or after.
  12. It was a close call between the Texas Tele and the Gecko explorer. I ended up voting for the explorer, because it's the one I could picture owning. A few months ago, I wouldn't have even thought of voting for the Tele, because the pictures just made it look... bland. But now that I'm seeing it in proper photographing, It really blew me away! I couldn't even tell that there was top carving on it from the earlier pics. When I voted, I noticed that the invader is pretty far ahead. I'll review this one, simply because I'm confused. I didn't vote for this one because it looked nice until I saw the kill switch button... Kinda reminds me of a beer can in the middle of a crystal clear lake. So yeah, nice guitar, except for that killswitch.
  13. Moth

    Bear Carving

    I'm really enjoying watching this thing emerge from the wood! Thanks so much for documenting it
  14. I just fill the slot with super glue then take a rubber tip hammer and push them in with that and slide the hammer across the fret pushing it in instead of hammering then take an extra radius block and squeeze clamp the fret in (I usually have three frets in before I clamp) let it dry a couple mins, move on and repeat. I find this is cheaper than buying press inserts and all that stuff and with this process I have only had to level the frets once (my first build) other than that the frets stay perfectly level, that is if the board is level to begin with. Love this build though, its lookin good and I like that ebonizing technique I will have to try it sometime. But now the radius block has fret imprints and superglue all over it
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