Moth

Hey Everyone, I really appreciate everything you've all done for me, emotionally, and most of all in the field of work that I'm in. Unfortunately, I've found myself in a sticky situation in my personal life. I'll be moving, and I don't know if I'll have internet for a while. But just in case, I wanted to say goodbye to everyone! Mods, i don't know if you can deactivate my account, but please do. I won't be needing it anymore. Thank you all -Amiee B.

The botom one's pretty, but the top one looks like it would have a lot more character to it. It also looks like it would sound better over time (like a violin), and it looks like it would age better.

I gotta love me some redwood burl! Great build Simo! I also liked Tait's, and Jester's a lot! Beautiful work guys!

+1 you could also measure a square that closely fits your pickups if you plan on using rings or a pickguard. But it is more astheticly pleasing to route to the shape of the pickup. If you do it right it is a mark of good craftsmanship

I like your test fretboard as a clamping barrier

oh... well they're advertised in their catalogs as flat

Unfortunately, wood normally looks a little different when you finish it. Whatever color the wood is when its wet is the color its going to be when you finish it with a clear finish. However, if you're okay with that, then I'd say that pretty much any water or alchohol based finish (shellac, polycrylic etc.) will work out for you. Oil based finishes will yellow with time.

Wizard necks, and most ibanez necks have some of the thinnest profiles out there. Its not a surprise to me that most of the guitars that come in with fret buzz problems are Ibanez RGs and S series guitars. Also, the fretboards on Wizard necks are not radiused. Its easier to bend something flat than it is to bend something round.

In that case, you'll want to place the high e's saddle all the way forward. since wavelengths are not perfect through string plucking, you'll need to make the string longer to compensate for intonation. the high e having the smallest wavelength out of all of them will require the least amount of extra length. The thicker the string, the more length it'll need to compensate for the vibration. So as you get to the lower strings, you'll have your bridge saddle further back. take a look at guitars with TOM bridges. Note that they're slightly angled with the high e more toward the neck than the low e

I don't normally venture into this forum, because I don't have much to say about accoustics. However, this thread caught my eye! A kahler flat mount trem would work. Its not a floating trem with knife edges, but it does do the same thing pretty much. I'm not sure how you'd mount it as I don't do much work with the inside of accoustics (I mostly work on the necks, frets, finishes and electronics), but if you were able to stabalize the body well enough to accept the added weight/tension/anchor point for the trem, it could probably work. [edit] it'd probably sound aweful though, because the resonance of the topwood would be killed by the giant hunk of metal stuck to it.

however, bubinga is sometimes referred to as "african rosewood". I'm not sure if it has any relation, other than the fact that its wood, and its expensive.

I guess it all depends on what you're going for. Black on endgrain can make things look pretty drastic. Sometimes it can be overkill. In person, the grain will still dance as long as you sand back enough. I made some pens in the "other woodworking" section of the forum, and i used only black dye on them, and sanded back some (probably could have sanded back a little more). The pictures are aweful and do the grain no justice, but the actual pens are pretty sweet in person!

Think of taking a P-bass pickup and aligning the two parts of it so they are even with each other - that's what that is. There is a separate pickup for the 3 bass strings, and then a bridge & neck set for the 5 guitar strings. They also go to separate output jacks so that you can bi-amp. teehee [edit] Now that i've reread the post, I realize that you're asking about the width beyond the strings, and not the extra pickup... my bad. My guess is that it has something to do with the width of the pickups available vs the pickup placement. Am I correct in assuming that you don't want the two outer guitar pickups picking up the sound from the lower strings?

***? Get over yourself. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=460448 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=459236 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=458314 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=456069 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=455970 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=454254 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=453450 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=453369 I like your glass house. Its shiny.

He's following my posts and leaving passively derogatory comments because I suggested that sustainer people get along. *shrug* Whatever floats your boat I guess. Nice guitar btw!

I like!

I see what u did there. You're stupid.

That's hot

I would ask what year guitar it came out of. If I recall correctly, the ZR system came out in 2006 or 7. My last review of a broken one was in late 2007. I haven't seen one come in since!

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43246 Here's a rough version

Scale length refers to the length of the area between the Bridge's last contact point with the string, and the nut's first contact point with the string. In other words, the length of the space between nut and bridge. If you can find that length, then you can place your bridge. Try determining how deep into the body you're going to be setting your bridge. How high are your strings going to be? Mock up your guitar with the neck in place (always mock attach the neck before routing for pickups/bridge placement) and use a straight edge in the place of where you would like your strings to be. Mark your points on the body where your scale length ends. The space where your scale length ends is where you will place the last contact point with the string (i.e. the string saddle), and you can mount your bridge from there. You may have to get creative with some templates in order to get the shape of your rout onto the body. Good luck!

I've had a few ZR trems come in because the part that holds the barrings in near the trem arm had cracked. Upon further research, it turned out that was the most common problem with the trems. However, that was a few years ago, and quality control has probably improved since then.

that kitchen oil sprayer looks pretty nifty!

You just can´t make them happy, can you? Sorry, I've been reading too many of Spoke's posts Its not like maple isn't in abundance I guess

That's a lotta extra wood you got there!