drpossehl

Thanks for the help guys. Ill grain fill twice next time with epoxy. Will be using Mcfaddens also next time. Is there a better epoxy to use?

I have built 2 guitars so far. I used two part devcon 30 min epoxy for grain filler both times with Deft clear lacquer sprayed for the top coat. I let them cure for months before finish sanding and polishing and they looked super when finished. Six months later you can start to see the grain pores again. I know that lacquer shrinks. Does the glue shrink also, because I filled and leveled the grain pores once and now the lacquer is shrinking into the pores. Is it possible to prevent this (grain showing later), or is this a fact of life with laquer paint? Next build is swamp ash with huge grain to fill. I will be using McFaddens lacquer this time. Will this shrink less or about the same? Dave

I use them with fixed bridges and love them! I'll never go back for that matter. you can get chrome Schaller Mini Locking Tuners for $51 a set at warmoth.com . For that price, theres nothing dumb about it. Gotta agree with Greg, Not "necessary" perhaps, but nothing wrong with spoiling yourself. For all the work you are doing to build it, whats a few more bucks in the end going to hurt?

Im happy with my results as far as looks goes, I'm just looking for the best product. I Have a good spray gun and thought I might as well use it. I tried searching but didn't find much discusion about brands of lacquer.

I also am switching from rattle can, (Deft), to gun. I wish someone would answer to original question. Which nito lacquer gives the best resaults?

Thanks, that was very informative!

Ya, the only info I can find is from the seller's site, not the end user's. Not to imply that the seller is not sincere. Peoples styles very and while one person might think its the greatest and decide to sell them, another might find a flaw or isue with their particular usage. Thanks for the reply.

I'm thinking about getting one for my next project, and I'm looking for feedback from Trem King user's, if there are any here.

I am tooling up to eventually make my own through necks. What would I need to focus on to improve tonally over a Carvin neck. Is it a demensional thing? Just curious.

I'm doing just that with a Carvin neck! In fact I'm hanging out here between coats of Deft. I'm very happy with the quality of the Carvin neckthrough blank and would recomend them to anyone.

No I dont think this is typical at all. The ones I have played (about four in all) were in the .010"-.015" range at the first fret. Is your bridge set down on the body? Trem springs missing? How high at the 12th fret?

My post wasn't intended as a flame. My coments were regaurding the sheetmetal look, not the fit and finish. If you read my post again with that in mind you will under stand what I was trying to say. Sorry if it came off as being mean. It would be a great replacement for a sheet metal style bridge,like I allready tried to say. Peace, Dave

I love the idea of this bridge, having a trem that acts like a fixed bridge when not in use. The trouble is I'm building a nice looking carved top neck through, and that bridge looks like the $19.00 unit that came with my first Squire. I realize the stamped sheetmetal look resembles some of the vintage style bridges, but for that kind of money I would expect it to look more like a Hipshot or a Schaller fixed bridge. I would drop it in a strat any day, but it just doesn't look nice enough for a custom made guitar. The price it's self is fair for the mechanicals of it. It's looks just don't match it's price. Sorry Trem King I got to pass on this one.

ya, cross drill a hole from the controll cavity (or possibly bridge pickup cavity) to the post insert hole. Run your ground wire in to the hole prior to pushing in the post insert and your good to go.

You could do a search here for "SoundAt11" and then PM him. He also has a Ebay store (also uses SoundAt11 for a user name on Ebay). He has alot more wood then whats listed at Ebay.