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Everything posted by djobson101

  1. Slotted this piece that I've been saving for the fretboard. I am going to have to do some math to place the bridge... I used my 27" template but started at the 2nd fret because it measured that it would fit into the old fretboard area, and I still got 22 frets. So I have no idea what the scale length is. I will need to go back to the scale length calculator I used on stewmac and subtract whatever the 2nd fret value is from 27... Sound right? Dug out some old epiphone humbuckers (that I won't be using for this) to do a mockup. The only work that was from tonight was starting the nut slot & radiusing the fretboard: I'm going with a 20" radius, so hopefully it shouldn't be too much of a PITA to glue. We shall see.
  2. Managed to find some time to get back to the LP project. I'm going to just link to the old thread instead of updating the threads individually: I am happy to report that the second time using the drill press routing for f-holes, it turned out much better. I used the same template from the other guitar. Finally got the top glued on, and cleaned it up on the spindle sander. Ran a cove bit around and drilled/routed for electronics. Randomly decided that it will have independent volumes & master tone. So you can still do the "on-off-cool-les paul-thing", but I don't care for 2 tones. And mini toggles for coil tapping: Don't ask about that horrendous truss rod channel... lol. Never will I ever attempt to make that cut on a neck that's shaped already, I just didn't have a choice and the old impatient gremlins were at it again. Couldn't keep a template on it for anything and for what this guitar is, I'm just going to live with it. Did some carving on the top. I forgot to take during pictures but came up with this: I want to soften the line some more at the top of the cove. Will have to get back to that soon.
  3. One bad habit I keep repeating is jumping around to different jobs before completing them. I definitely feel like it is somewhat detrimental to work flow, but sometimes when I only have a short time in the evening to work on the guitar I'll hop around out of just plain old impatience. Routed for humbuckers: Then decided to drill the bridge post holes, and ack did that bit wander! As for the band aids: Decided to invest in some nicer brad tip bits for the second attempt. Happier test fit than last time! So I am going to need to get a router bit with a longer shank to complete the humbucker cavities. Can't cruise the router around the body at the neck position with that fretboard glued on... Maybe a written list of processes is in order for next time!
  4. I started to play with shaping up the back of the headstock and some neck carving. I still have a ways to go because I was very apprehensive about removing too much material from the neck. And for good measure wiped some mineral spirits on. I am beginning to see why people like doing this! It's still rough with scratches but now I'm really excited to get further along.
  5. @KnightroExpress it is indeed quite Languedoc inspired I should say, at least leaning in that direction. I can't imagine how many hours that guy put into making some of those guitars, especially getting into all that crazy binding and inlay. Thanks for the reference too, I'll be getting a set of those ferrules on order asap. @Pariahrob thanks! I'm definitely discovering my learning curve on it. Probably my biggest setback is learning to plan more and be patient before cutting wood. I guess I will have to employ this philosophy on the next build
  6. I particularly like the way that ta28 guitar is looking That Bridgeport is a seriously cool machine! That's not in your home shop space is it..?
  7. Before gluing, shaped the end of the fretboard to the same template that I had used to take the body down for the top to slide on. Kind of starting to visualize that the strings are gonna be higher off the body than I would've liked - in terms of the combined height of the fretboard and the bit of the neck that is peeking out mistakes were made when I was removing material to allow for the top to sit on there. It may come down ever so slightly when radiusing the fretboard I guess. Will have to wait and see.. Dun dun dun! Trimmed up: That's about where I'm at for now. I'm really hoping to make some good progress this next week in a couple different areas. Going to want to start carving the neck soon. I have all the hardware now, so have to figure out how to start tackling the bridge & nut placement. Tuner holes Figure out the electronics cavity and hope that I don't tear out massive chunks that you can see through the f-holes (perhaps should've started some kind of opening before the back was glued on. Oh well) At this point, I couldn't wait any longer to do a mockup: One last thing I should ask - I have 2 sets of ferrules like these. Is that proper usage of the hardware, or do they make a different style ferrule for where the string goes through the body like this?
  8. After much deliberation, I decided to make a slotting jig with the table saw blade they sell on LMII. Basically just cut a little MDF "pin" to recess into a sled, and then marked and cut position slots with a small router bit onto another sheet of MDF to tape the fret board wood to. I didn't do the greatest job of getting good angles to show what's going on in the sled but you probably get the idea. The fretboard is attached to the side of the MDF piece closer to the middle of the sled and those little jig clamps keep it pressed against the bottom of the sled. And then the "pin" is up against the back of the sled. So on the fretboard wood - I bought a piece of mora from the local Rockler store knowing not a whole lot about the wood. It's pretty hard stuff right? Are there any other pros/cons/indifference for this as a fretboard choice?
  9. Overall it was a fun process, but yeah I'm pretty sure I probably tried to go in too heavy. I would like to practice this method some more in the future - definitely satisfying in it's own way. And thanks! Of course at the moment they happen the hickups are a real drag, but in exchange for learning through experience it's not a bad trade.
  10. Onto some neck updates. Got me a truss rod and some fiber rods! I'll explain in a moment why the good looking picture is first This whole process was done on a day when I was really rushing and it shows. Everything from cutting the rods, to the truss rod channel being slightly too wide (template moved on me maybe? not sure), to THIS: I was too impatient to make investments to do this job via the router, so I hastily decided to go back to the drill press routing, and of course, being that the body is present, made it a huge pain in the ass. On one of the passes I didn't realize that the body pushing against the column on the drill press forced the template out of place... Not something that'll be seen of course, but I will certainly hit the drawing board much more seriously in the future as far as which steps need to be done first.
  11. After a little bit of filling and sanding, I got it looking a little better. If you are looking at it from a foot away, it's a little haggard but it's better than it was. I'm still window shopping for a band saw, so for now I have this contraption - jig saw screwed onto an MDF box it did the trick for this thin piece of cedar, but beyond that it's usefulness will be limited: I used the template from the body route to oil the back of the top & body cavity just to.. protect it from what, I don't know. It's just some furniture polish type stuff from home depot, beeswax & orange oil I believe. Nearly forgot to cut the channels for pickup & bridge grounding wires. That would've been unpleasant! And finally, just went for it and did this:
  12. About time for more updates! I sprung for some acrylic templates, mostly to deal with the f-hole cuts. I wasn't really sure how to go about making a clean template for them and the time I have had to work on the guitar lately, I've been anxious to make progress quickly. So it seemed like a good idea to get these I put the whole body in my router sled with a neck/fretboard template on to take the thickness of the body down enough to allow for the top to sit on top. For whatever reason, I think I went lower than I had originally wanted, but I like seeing the little bit of the neck woods showing through. Seen as the f-holes have some really tight corners, I wanted to try out the drill press routing method. I forget who I recently saw make the post with the link to the video of Robbie O'Brien doing this on a classical head stock - but thank you! It seemed to work pretty good, considering I missed some of the instructions that a second time going back and watching I picked up - had the drill running at too low of an RPM, wasn't being great about removing the waste material from the cut. Not sure if it was my ignorance or the softness of the cedar, or both, but it tore through in some spots.
  13. I'm just getting really happy with using templates now. This will get cleaned up of course when it comes to working on the neck: With all the rough areas on her it's really kind of a hot mess right now but I swear I will be giving it much needed attention in the near future. I didn't forsee that the round nose bits cut like... that, but the neck is still too thick anyway. I actually went back and did the cut again with a wider diameter bit to smooth the transition more, but I am having trouble with my system of retrieving pictures from my phone and getting them on the computer.
  14. I picked up a used 14" drill press from a commercial liquidation tag sale recently, and have been having good times so far with it! I was anxious to give this a shot. Finished her off with the trusty Makita: It's really teetering on being truly "neck through" at this point
  15. Woops, adding pictures out of order I guess what I'll do when it's strung up (a very ambitious statement at the moment) is try out varying gauges to see what feels 'right' for this. Also because I most definitely would like to do another of this same guitar in the future to keep in a different tuning, so there will be room for trying different things. I used some cedar to try and decorate the back of this thing. It is really, really soft.
  16. The regular reply form that is the screenshot up there, I have always used this and worked fine but I am now having trouble when I try and add multiple files at once. But only certain pictures, on occasion, it seems to randomly not work with some. The error message I think read "There was a problem uploading the image -200".
  17. So I'm actually not sure how to approach the string gauge for this guitar. Is it that using light or normal gauge strings on the longer scale creates more tension by the time it's tuned up? As long as I can get away with using a string set without a wound G string I think I'll be happy.
  18. It'll be standard most likely, although I'm definitely in the future going to build something like this to either tune down or go 7 or 8 string. The best answer/reason is that I have big hands - ukuleles, mandolins and even Gibsons just throw their heads back and laugh when they see me coming I feel like 25.5" scale is the minimum I feel comfortable on. I was intrigued back when too I saw that the Buckethead model LP came with a 27" scale. This was actually an inspiration to want to build a guitar in the first place - I would go around to guitar shops to ask if they had anything larger than Fender scale I could try out, and never found anything.
  19. Got a little more work done today, I didn't manage to get any pictures until I was done.. Trimmed the rest of the neck & headstock. I realized that I should have thicknessed the headstock before glueing it to the neck - I had a hell of a time trying to secure the thing in my router sled face down with the body up in the air. Had a close call when it came free at one point! I should be able to clean it up though. I'm thinking of trying a volute here.
  20. Thanks! - I was definitely wondering about using carbon rods for bulking this neck up some. What do you mean as far as the middle possibly blowing out though?
  21. I had much better luck with this jig for scarfing. I failed to realize though that it would have made it incredibly easier to have extended flat sections of the angled guides, in order to set the depth of the router with ease. I wasted a lot of time playing around with it to see where the bit would contact the work. I guess I could cut and attach guides to achieve this. (forgot an after pic of the cleaned up joint on the neck): New sandwich got the treatment as well (question - to avoid the tearout at the bottom, would adding scrap wood underneath help prevent this?) The neck itself is still thick enough where that portion will be worked away eventually... but I would like to try and get it better in the future. Finally! It was warm enough to be able to glue something out in the garage and not have to bring it inside: And the end result. Before gluing, I went the route of drilling holes and dropped a couple little nails in the scrap areas to help keep it in place. As it sits now, she is a bit neck heavy
  22. Couple more updates - making some progress with the headstock. I had a little scrap of the redwood left so I sandwiched it in a couple of the oak pieces. Made a little mod for the router sled for more thin workpieces: The shape is actually going to end up more to the left than this because of the scarfed portion, I failed to plan but I think that little devil on the bottom is going to be right smack on the bottom line of the headstock: Going at it with cedar again, I want to try some layering further down the line with the headstock. Something tells me this guitar is going to be full of nicks and dents into it's life.
  23. I gave it a thumbnail test before and it definitely gives way pretty easily. When you adjust the truss rod, does it push more against the end of the channel at the heel end of the neck, or is it more that it pushes downward along the bottom of the whole channel?
  24. Very cool & very clean looking! I like how the P90s look against the pine
  25. The wings are just a couple of fir 2 x 6 pieces. I am really wondering both if this is a bad idea and what it will sound like. Ready to trim the neck piece to the template, and in my hastiness......forgot to set the depth stop on the ol' plunge mechanism: I ended up band-aiding it by trimming 1/16" from each side of the neck template where it joins the wings, and re-trimming. I left the space at the top of the neck to maybe try and get the fretboard straight with a locating technique that I've seen some of you guys demonstrate. I need to do a bit of reading on that part! Cleaned out the horns and went for the glue up. It looks like a close call but I'm pretty sure I have at least an inch left at the fouled up scarf attempt to redo with the soon to be made router jig: Planed the whole thing for now and smoothed the edges, so I am inspired while I look at it for what will probably be the next couple weeks. That fir takes up a whole lot of space as shavings!
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