djobson101

I'm looking to toss an old licensed FR trem when making a new body, and in the new guitar use a 2 point strat style trem. On the FR the studs looked to be about 2 7/8" apart. The new trem I want to use has spacing of 2 7/32" (American Strat spec?). What I am wondering, is will this cause any tuning problems? I feel like this might be somewhat of a stupid question because I wouldn't think the stud spacing really dictates a whole lot here... but then again I don't know much about this at all.

Did you replace it with the same kind of switch (e.g., DPDT)? If you replaced a dpdt with an spdt or something like that, you could get that behavior. A little more info is needed.

Well, it was the 'direct replacement' from Dunlop. I had to clarify some stuff with the rep on the phone (the date I bought the pedal) because they changed something on them apparently. But we got it all squared away, the new switch had the same terminals and everything. Tough luck I guess.

Apologize in advance for posting a question about a pedal in the guitar forum. It's a very basic problem though... I had to replace the on/off switch on my CryBaby because it broke. I wired a new one in, and it works except when in bypass mode it (the guitar) doesn't make any sound. When the wah is engaged the pedal works as usual. Sound like something easy to fix at home?

I guess it is only 1/16" divided across the strings.. It makes sense that it would work, intonation was a concern too. I'll be sure to be very careful measuring before installing the LSR nut. And, thanks for the heads up!

I recently bought a used Peavey Predator (strat copy) and was thinking about putting some different parts on it. One particular item was a 2 point tremolo instead of the existing vintage style trem.. I was curious about whether or not I could do this because of string spacing, on my guitar it seems to be 2 1/8". With that tremolo I thought it might be neat to throw on these roller saddles I found - This is where I came up with this concern, because at least for these saddles alone in the description they have said that the spacing must be at least 2 3/16". Another thing I might add is that I already have a Fender LSR roller nut to install on the guitar as well. Between these 3 parts, is it likely that I'll be able to get it right?

Many thanks for the responses guys. This thread will be my new bible, as a lot of confusion and wondering has been cleared up

If one were to want MIDI capabilities hardwired into a guitar (basically I don't want to strap one of those clunky Roland units on to the front of a project guitar), what kind of equipment would I need? I've been looking at LR Baggs and Fishman Piezo bridges but I'm not sure if this is at all the same concept. What kind of gear would I need to buy and/or wire up in a guitar to have MIDI access without using an external system (not excluding of course, whatever processing unit and additional amp would be needed)?

Also, what type of toggle should I buy? An on/on?

I actually do have a spare 3 way. Would that be easier to wire up that way? Also I've never seen how the toggle switches work in guitar wiring. Would you have to solder it directly to the volume pot?

I've gotten a little curious after seeing one of these on a Carvin. If I understand correctly, this is the setup that comes on the entry level bolt kit guitar, there are 3 single coils, with the controls a master volume, master tone, a 5 way switch and a toggle switch.

Now, what I think it does, is enable you to combine the bridge pickup with any of the other positions on the 5 way. Is this how it works? I'm asking because I have a cool idea, but not sure if it would work.

I will be using a guitar with a H-S-H configuration - a couple of stock (Epiphone) Firebird humbuckers, and in the single position I have a SD Hot Rails. If I were to attempt to wire it in the same way that the Carvin's are (and if what I heard about that toggle switch function was true), could I have it set so that it's like this - the hot rails is wired to the bottom (bridge) position on the 5 way switch, and is able to be used with either of the two other humbuckers via the toggle?

Thanks, any advice is greatly appreciated

I'm trying to wire up 3 pickups - 2 stock Epi humbuckers and a SD Hot Rails to a master volume and a standard 5 way switch. The 2 Epiphone humbuckers only have a hot wire and a ground wire, I already have them in a guitar with the hot rails right now, in order to have only a master volume... do I just need to remove the wires going to and from the tone pot?

That looks pretty cool... can you buy a nut like that anywhere? Or was that one custom made?

http://www.universaljems.com/cart/bobbin.htm

Awesome, thanks

I've never played a scalloped neck, although I've always wanted to, I've heard it's sort of like a different instrument. It can be harder to play certain chords because if you put too much pressure on your fingers than certain notes can go sharp? But I'm sure it's an easy adjustment to make once you get used to it.

I have seen on some of the pictures in the gallery of project guitars, or elsewhere, someone puts some kind of material on a pickup to give it a different color, image, holograph etc. What is a good material that I can find to put over some pickups (i.e., to make them half one color and half another), and how does the application process go?

Highly possible, provided you have the tools and skills. Take a look at my thread. There is also a tutorial on the main site. One caveat is that it's very difficult to conceal the wood joints. Even if it's perfect when initially finished, the wood will often move a bit over time, revealing the joint as a wrinkle under the finish. This happened to my guitar. My advice would be to veneer the top and back once you've filled in the trem cavity.

Wow, excellent job. That's exactly what I wanted to do to it with the wood fill-ins... I will probably be able to bring the guitar to a friend's shop to work on it, so he has a lot of guitar building tools. Only other thing is the nut - but that should be fairly easy, right? I don't mind if it is visible where a chunk of wood might have to be glued back in the space that the locking nut takes up.

Is it within the realm of working on a guitar to modify a Floyd Rose equipped guitar, so that it has a simple fixed bridge? As in is there a way to fill in the body cavity from the FR and sand it down so that you can screw the smaller bridge on? And also... at the nut on the neck. I see there's a chunk of wood cut away there... does that make it near impossible to revert to a regular nut? I know this seems (at least to me) darn near impossible, but if you guys have any advice I'd appreciate it. I really want to go Floyd-less at least on this axe.

Worst case scenario I'll just block the trem.

I definitely will... "pics or it didn't happen." Heheh, well this is certainly something I'd wanna share anyways. It may be a couple months (hopefully less.. one month!) but I'll be sure to share.

The only reason I would consider the stripping down was to paint the back of the body a different color to match the pattern. Can you repaint the guitar if you sand it down like how you were describing? I am not the most experienced in woodworking so... I may sound funny asking these things. What I was thinking was if I do the guitar with the binding, to maybe cut out the paper along the binding so it still shows? Unless that'd be too hard. It's not that big of a deal to just go over the whole face though. Thanks for the good advice Our Souls, and everyone else for the links that will also be helpful for this.

Hey guys,

I'm new here, and have a new project idea I'm ready to kick off -

What I'm doing is taking a guitar, and stripping all the finish off of it so that I can apply a graphic pattern to the front of the guitar. The patterns are on paper cutouts... What I'm hoping to do is adhere the paper to the front of the guitar when it is unfinished, and than seal over the top of it with some clear finish. A couple things I was wondering - First, would it be safe to assume that the clear coat will take well to the paper? And secondly, one of the guitars I'm contemplating getting for this project has binding on the body. Would the procedure for stripping down the finish be any different, or would I have to worry about breaking through the binding?

Thanks in advance if anyone has advice,

Dalton