FireFly

If you have a neck and bridge pickup on at the same time, you will have a hard time producing an artificial harmonic...

No it isn't. Im sorry but Im not allowed to go on arguing unless you've payed.

I made a tutorial about this in the tutorial section of the forum a little while ago. Maybe that'll help? It's called "how to make a full scale template" It's all words and no pics, but it's a pretty good way to do it IMO

That looks like a hot rod. Since one side of the rod stays straight, is ther a problem with proper expansion inside the carbon fiber tube? Does it stay put inside the rod? I'm very interested in this!

*raises hand*

I've done a few refinishes with mahogany bodies. I'd get it all leveled out, and then a month later, after it was cured, it would show up with those pinhole grain marks. So I'd apply a few more coats, and it'd be all good... until the 6th month when the finish was still curing and tightening. Sometimes finishes take a long time to cure. I'm sure yours is in playable condition right now, but it'll probably be a while before the smell goes away.

Poly's pretty finiky, as you seem to have figured out with this build... and you probably already knew. Now... what to do... There's a tutorial on the main site that shows you how to scallop your frets. In this tutorial, it shows you how to wrap your frets (even a little under the fret) with masking tape. You can use this to mask your frets. Then you can use chemicals to strip the fretboard, as abraisives would just cause more problems than solutions. Then you can respray and scrape the binding, and the tape should help protect the frets against the chemicals, sprayover, and scraper. Then you can carefully peel the tape off your frets... There shouldn't be any problem with using poly over shellac provided one has time to cure before the other is applied. I would have to say that any finish that is put on the fretboard is probably going to wear off over time. I'm not trying to sound condescending when I ask this, but why don't you just use shellac? why cover it in poly after?

I thought the concept pictures looked pretty cheesey. Now that its finished, I can imagine this thing being played, and I would have to compliment the creativity in the build! I like it

I heard that the blood of a unicorn works pretty well...

Muzz, your guitar reminds me of my first kit guitar that I built and finished myself when i was 15. I voted for it because I would have had the most sentemental value in it. Great first build! I admire that you took your sweet time building it too

Well, I think the build is cool I don't see anyone yelling at killemall for his KL copies. Or any other body copy on this site for that matter. (LPs, SGs, RGs, Strats, Explorers, Rhoads, etc.)

With the amount of wood in that tearout, I'm going to have to stress how lucky you are that the guitar is the only thing that got hurt! As you can see, the router is a force to be reconed with and deserves some respect. I'd take the advice in the posts before mine seriously if you decide to attempt another build. Good luck, and be safe!

Holy Voulte Batman o.O

lol @ thread

You know, I saw a burrl just like this one online somewhere. It could be the same one. I had a hard time seeing anything I could do with it and thought "hmm... I wonder if drak could do something with it" and here it is I'm glad you filled in the eyes. They looked kinda stupid before lol.

I like it! I'll have to give it a shot some time

Glue, spread, clamp. I don't see an issue. For the tr, some will add Saran wrap. I use silicon around the covered parts of the tr and then I spread the glue where I want it. Works great!

I personally would get out the toothbrush for the frets. As far as the hardware goes, I'd remove it and clean each piece individually with chemical cleaners. Make sure all the chemicals are cleaned off before you put them back on the guitar. However, if the guitar is in playable condition, then I would just scrub with the toothbrush.

You would normally receive a nut blank. Then, according to your preference, along with bridge spacing, neck taper, pole positions on your pickups. So no, there isn't any real formula other than to pick things that match. Hopefully my vague answer answers your vague question

Oh cool! I didn't know you started this build! You're welcome to use my shop if you wanna take the drive

Big box store is shipped across the country baring the weather. It then bakes in the sun outside the store under plastic till they need it. Then it goes into a big box store with inconsistent night and day conditions. Definitely not straight lumber...

Don't relax too much, k. You'll make a mistake I like these non glossy builds!

+1 to the above. To answer some of your questions, you can route through another piece of wood into your guitar and that will minimize paint chippage. Definitely practice practice practice first on another piece of wood though!