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timothy.coyle

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About timothy.coyle

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  1. Received the gibson sized pre sloted Graph Tech white Tusq XL today in the mail. I also made a card board mock up of the body shape to see how it fit on my body. Felt pretty good. Heres The Nut: Cardboard mock up: Card board mock up with fretboard an nut layed on top:
  2. Thank you for the compliments. That transition is a bit odd I agree, maybe I will shape it a bit differently. As for the guitar stand issue, I may just hang it on one of my wall hangers. It is nice that this class is offered, I would have never had the opportunity to make my own instrument otherwise. Today I scored the guide lines for the fanned fret slots into my fretboard and filled them with chalk. I will cut the fret slots in class next thursday most likely.
  3. Update: Got the wood for the guitar today in class, also notched both sides of the fingerboard for slotting the fanned fret slots. Heres the wood, Neck through black limba, Black limba body, ebony fretboard, ebony headstock overlay. | Sorry about the bad quality it was taken with a crappy camera phone in low light. Also I had to get Hipshot locking tuners as the sperzels were back ordered. JS Moore pickups is winding me a custom set of humbuckers to my specs. I am in talks with Aldridge Empire to make me a set of flat aluminum humbucker rings and 6 single string bridges with tune o matic spacing. Thats it until class next thursday.
  4. Thanks for the comment. I have heard about his licensing charge for the use of his neck profile. What I was planning on doing is when I am closer to completion of the build I will make a test peice of wood with different neck profiles on it. Then I coyld decide if I like the profile and purchase the license if I decide to go that way with the real neck. Thanks for the heads up.

  5. I like what you've got started with your EGS-inspired build. Just an FYI, unless you have one of the remaining, unused "self-build not-for-profit" permissions, Rick now requires everybody to pay the $55 licensing fee and mark the serial number & patent number on the neck.

    Ray

  6. Ordered up some Sperzel Open Back Trim-Lock tuners from TK Instruments today. I chose these because they are sapposedly the lightest weight traditional locking tuners on the market. I almost chose Hipshot as they had a 18-1 ratio as apposed to the sperzels 12-1 but the hipshots were just a bit heavier. I thought it would be good to cut weight at the headstock to reduce chances of neck dive. TK Instruments Now I am researching different options for fanned fret bridges. I found the ABM Single string bridge and it says that it has a string spacing of 10mm. My preffered string spacing is tune o matic 2-3/64"(52mm) string spacing with standard non f-spaced pickups. I havent been able to work out if the ABM bridges will allow this string spacing so if anyone knows more about these ABM single string bridges I would appreciate some knowledge. I e-mailed TK instruments about possibly purchasing a set of their single string bridges but no response yet. Also e-mailed Armadillo Guitar about a custom bridge and again no answer. I have e-mailed Rick Toone about his bridge that might also work and he said that they will be availible sometime in february and thats when the pricing will be released. So I still have some research to do on the bridge choice. I e-mailed JS Moore about some custom pickups but have yet to get a response. Hopefully he gets back to me as I would love to try a set of his pickups. Right now its pretty much just gathering the materials and hardware until class this thursday.
  7. If I was to add more wood behind the bridge it would probably look something more like this(Only smoothed out). although it would move further away from the original EGS guitar design it might be a good idea to do add some wood behind the bridge to improve the balance since the guitar is meant to be headless. Thanks for the idea, I may end up dong something like that.
  8. Nice to know Mr. Strandberg is on this forum, I didn't realise that as I am pretty new on here. Ill be spending alot of time checking out his posts. To be honest I would have just ordered a guitar from Mr. Strandberg himself as I am sure he could do a much better job than me of building his own design(and guitars in general). But he has about a two year waiting list from what I understand, plus the pricing is a bit out of my budget. I would have loved to use his hardware but from what I read he has put a hold on sales of his hardware to provide enough hardware for his own builds. Also the pricing is a bit out of my reach on that as well. I am not complaining about the pricing as it does seem very fair considering what big guitar companies charge for non custom instruments and hardware. I am just giving reasons why I am not able to use his hardware or buy a guitar from him. And that reason is I am poor . As this is my first time building any instrument I just hope I don't screw it up too bad. But my instructor is good so I think it should come out ok.
  9. Hello Everyone, I am taking a class at my local community college in guitar building. I have many back issues so I have always wanted to own an ergonomic guitar to allow me to practice for longer periods of time but have never had the money. So once I saw this class in the catalog I jumped at the chance to make my own guitar. The class meets every thursday for 4 hours so it will take me quite a while to finish this build. If I had a shop at my home or access to one I may have been able to finish this guitar in one term. But since I dont It will probably take a couple. So updates will be very slow. The body shape will be Ola Strandberg's EGS guitar shape of Strandberg guitarworks. I have modified the EGS body slightly to my tastes and to accomadate the traditional headstock and bridge. His guitars are usually headless but I have been kind of having a hard time sourcing headless hardware and what I have found is pretty expensive and doesent fit my preffered specs. I am going to have this a traditional guitar with a small ish headstock and lightweight tuners. This guitar will be played in an angled up classical position as it is the easiest on my back. I made sure to ask Ola Strandberg if I could use his body shape and he graciously agreed to let me use it. Here are the specs: Construction: Neck Through Scale: 25.5"-25" fanned fret Frets: 22 Nut Width: 1-11/16" Fretboard Radius: straight 12"(I would have liked to do a compound 10-14 but my instructor advised against this for a first build) Neck Shape: Possibily Rick Toone's Trapazoidal neck profile(which I will pay for license) or traditional Neck Wood: Black Limba Body Wood: Black Limba Fretboard Wood: Ebony Headstock Veneer: Ebony Truss Rod Cover: Ebony Fret Material: Gold EVO frets Nut Material: Graph Tech White Tusq XL Tuners: Hipshot Locking Tuners with fake ebony tuner buttons(to reduce weight) Bridge: Most likely 6 single string bridges made by Aldrige Empire Strap Buttons: Schaller Strap Locks Pickups: 2 Custom humbuckers from JS Moore Pickups Switch: DiMarzio Three Position On/On/On 4PDT Pickup Selector Switch Volume Pot: RS Guitarworks 500k SuperPot Tone Pot: CTS 500k Concentric Pot(For neck and bridge tone) Neck Capacitor: RS GuitarCap .015 Bridge Capacitor: RS GuitarCap .022 Jack: Switchcraft Switching Positions: Neck, Neck and bridge Inner Coils(Parallel), Bridge Here is the original version: Here is the version I have settled on: And if you want to check out some AWESOME ergonomic guitars check out Ola strandbergs site: Ola Strandberg Guitarworks And here's a link to Rick Toone's site who's neck profile I may be using: Rick Toone
  10. Ive found that the sound certain humbuckers make when split is usefull. Ive tried playing guitars that have mini switches and push pull pots to split humbuckers and it has always seemed cumbersome, to me at least. I read about arcade style killswitches that are the right size and would be easy to push real quick while your playing to split a humbucker while not being in the way. Only problem is that the arcade style switches that ive found are only momentary switches and I dont even know if wiring them to split a humbucker is possible. I would like to find an arcade style button switch that you would push and let go of the switch and it would split the humbucker, then push and let go of the button to go back to full humbucking mode. Ive seen something sort of like it in the Suhr Guthrie Govan signature model blower button, but it just goes to the bridge pickup in full without a cap or anything and the button seems kind of small. I was wondering if any of you had tried this and or if know where to source a push push on-off arcade style switch. I usually end up smacking the volume knob on a strat when I strum and turn down the volume on accident so I usually just reposition the volume knob on a normal strat and get rid of one of the tone knobs. I was thinking that it would be about the perfect place for a button coil splitter that could be easily accessed quickly, and since it is so low to the body I would not hit it on accident. Im hoping it would look something like this but with a arcade style button to split the neck and bridge humbuckers at the same time instead of a black metal volume knob that i used to represent an arcade style button. Here are some red arcade style killswitches on a Gibson Buckethead signature les paul that look like they would be the perfect size for the job, though they are only momentary switches.
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