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3DogNate

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About 3DogNate

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 07/29/1969

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  • Location
    Mid-West
  • Interests
    Guitars... Guitars... Guitars...
  1. As a player that meanders around the upper fret area when soloing, that guitar looks very uncomfortable to play beyond the 15th fret... And the use of an actual strat pickguard on a not really a strat body is not working for me. And I can't say much for the neck since its a Warmoth. I say go ahead and take it down closer to the strat shape at least around the lower horn side of the pickguard. Not a fan yet, sorry. The lines on the bass side of the body look good.
  2. Nice.... I've been itching to do a batch build. I'm about to do an original prototype that I've got drawn up in CAD. We'll see what kind of response I get. If it's positive I'll probably give batch tooling setups a swing. A Paduak neck is on my list of things to try soon. Love working with it I've used it on one acoustic and body parts of a few electrics now. Love watching your build threads keep it up.
  3. I went ahead and sid the assembly and setup last night. Plays and sounds awesome
  4. Sanding Sealer is usually a high solid content though and since he is going to fill the gap the and put more clear on top I would not worry so much. However if it was filling in the final coat I would not use Sanding Sealer but use the finish lacquer. The problem with using finish lacquer is it is very thin (even before you thin it for a gun) so it will take a long time to fill. I'd fill it with thick/medium CA or even epoxy... filling it with lacquer is just gonna shrink back over time (not that much of it either.)
  5. Tell you what... I'm so f'n done with waterbourne finishes...its crap all crap... I decided that I liked the satin finish that was getting straight off the gun... looked a lot like the Fender Highway series finishes. So I went to install the String ferrules. and teh finish cracked around it so I said screw it I'm relicing the body. That's the last time I'm doing waterbourne, I've got an acoustic build that I started with it, I'm going to let that cure for a couple of weeks and consider that as a sealer coat and spray that with Nitro... The waterbornes are just too brittle. I'll post a pic later today. >^|
  6. Ooh... I'd knock the clear back down flat and pinstripe where the white and carbon fibre meet and then proceed with more clear.... That'd look wicked...
  7. I've had decent luck with the Target EM6000 Waterbourne Finish. But it goes on SOOO thin it takes forever to get a sufficient build for cutting and buffing. EM7000 is suposed to be essentially the same thing with a better build up. Anyone try it yet? Thhumbs up? Thumbs Down?
  8. You'll likely just make it worse my mucking around with it... If it's a crack in the finish... Live with it. If it is a scratch you can wetsand and buff it out.
  9. The Wenge wasn't too hard to carve, I'd put it about as difficult as Indian Rosewood... I mainly used a micro plane and a stewmac dragon rasp. It went pretty quick. No we're near as difficult as another rosewood like pau ferro or cocobolo would be. I've got a set neck I started a while back made of Cumaru... Now that **** is hard. I fully dread carving that one.
  10. After a round of Tele styled guitars for comissioners I decided that I'd take some of the leftovers and build a Tele style guitar for myself since I don't have a straight up tele of my own. I have not been very dilligent taking pics, but I've got some and I'm in the finishing phase right now. Thought I'd toss out a few in progress shots before putting a finished one out. Specs. Body: Swamp Ash Finish: Mary Kaye White (Target EM6000 Waterbourne Lacquer) Neck: Wenge Fingerboard: Wenge Fretwire: StewMac #149 Inlay: Mother of pearl face and side dots and mother of pearl Logo Bridge: Joe Barden Vintage Tele Tuning Machines: Sperzel Locking Pickups: Dimarzio Area-T (DP418 - Bridge, DP417 Neck) Pickguard: Tortoise Jack: Electrosocket
  11. Yeah, I'd like to know too. Dyes tend to creep into the wood and on the side view, you can see that, usually. Perhaps if the sides were sealed 1st, you wouldn't have this problem. Easy... yep, I sealed the sides and back with shellac then final sanded the top to make sure the top had no shellac. Then I dyed the top with denatured alcohol and Transtint dye. (I don't do water based dyes when there is bare wood involved.) and scraped and sanded the eage to break the sharp edge and expose a little more maple. Spray another coat of shellac over the whole thing again to seal in the top. After that is dry I mask off the Maple binding with 3M Pinstriping tape (Vinyl not Crepe) and masked off the top then I was able to shoot a toner coat over the back and sides. The shellac sealer makes for nice crisp tape lines and no bleed.
  12. Nice! I did a Padauk and Bearclaw Sitka OM sized guitar a couple of years ago for a guy... Great combination... I still get notes from him praising it. What'd you use for the bridge plate is that also Cocobolo? Just making sure it's not Indian Rosewood. Padauk is such a nice back and side wood... love it.
  13. Not really trying to dredge up an old thread But,I was just sent this video by the guitar's owner with it in action. http://www.youtube.com/embed/30ieBqUVRSI
  14. Been using strings from http://www.webstrings.com I have been VERY happy with them... I buy a dozen sets at a time and if I run out before ordering I go for Ernie Ball.
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