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wander

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About wander

  • Birthday 01/28/1980

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    Freeport, IL U.S.A.

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  1. I acquired an old Kay archtop a while back with the intent of refinishing it, but found the amount of work needed to be WAY over my head. The binding is shot, the finish is cracked, sometime in the last 50 years the neck joint has been "repaired." Long story short i have a Floating bridge setup that is good shape, but that is about it. Anybody interested in purchase/trade? Or can somebody link me up to a not craigslist/ebay site that does this sort of thing?
  2. i was at my paint store yesterday looking at what they had and noticed Minwax has a water based brush on line as well, currently researching how comparable it is to other more traditional lacquers and i sprayed up some sample boards over the weekend. should be an interesting couple of weeks.
  3. i've used acetone and 0000 steel wool to get some tough 100 year old shellac off before, not the prettiest way to do it, but it worked and only a minimum of sanding afterwards. get some good gloves though
  4. Let's swing this discussion another way for a moment, i saw another post asking about rattle can polyurethane...how durable is that for guitars? Done a ton of wainscotting, doors and the like, but could that do the job and still look good? That stuff i can brush on and make look like glass, i've done it before, but i'd been led to believe it was NOT for instuments from various tutorials i've encountered else i'd have used that in the first place. Thoughts?
  5. What sort of Rustoleum? They have quite a few lines. I bought the Industrial/ Hard Hat line. According to the Rustoleum Tech Support it is able to be coated with any lacquer within a few days, provided it doesn't have too hot of a base to it. I intend to let mine sit for a few weeks before i coat it with a water based lacquer, and so long as you don't try and use the clear coating (7701 or the like) for a final finish you should be okay. We'll see in a few weeks...hopefully all turns out well.
  6. I'll be able to tell whether brush on is any sort of viable (for me) by then. really i should be able to tell that before i finish a side. if i can't get it to flow out right and will need to spend the next few months sanding and recoating it is not what i'm looking for. i know this is NOT a quick process, and i'm not trying to do a slapdash job, but three young kids and a full time job demand most of my time. I'm gonna eat the gas money and take a drive down to my buddy with a sprayer and thirty years experience using it. gonna check out the Target site sounds informative. all this discussion has gotten me to a few conclusions. First and foremost, shell out for a decent sprayer, second i want to try a brush on finish on a guitar that isn't so valuable (to me)(i've got an old beater that could use some new paint/lacquer...i'm thinking blinding yellow...) and lastly this forum is a wealth of experience. thanks to all of you for the help. (superfluous parenthetical)
  7. RDub- Can i use water or off the shelf retarder from, say, Sherwin-Williams? If it is water based what would be the difference between retarder and just water? I realize retarder is specifically made to do this, BUT for the sake of information why use that over water? Any links for this info? Going to do test runs this weekend for brush on, also going to pick up a small quantity of H2o based poly to see how the two compare. ideally i'll have picks posted by mid-week.
  8. Clear Gloss Topcoat is a crystal-clear acrylic waterbase lacquer that has 100% burn-in between coats, without a time limit. That makes it repairable, much like nitrocellulose lacquer. It is a thermoplastic resin and will shrink and move around with the heat of buffing. 25-30% of the final finish thickness should be lacquer topcoats. It sands and buffs well to a high gloss, with good hardness and durability. Full chemical cure occurs in 150 hours. Waterbase Retarder or WATER can be added to reduce viscosity. When hot/dry conditions cause the finish to dry too fast, thin with 5%-15% Waterbase Retarder. http://www.stewmac.com item number 5570 also didn't say anything about NEEDING any other product for curing either on the company website or the label.
  9. It does melt in to itself, or so the label says, hopefully will mesh well with color coat I already have a scrap chunk ready, just waiting for good weather to paint as my garage is unheated i've got nice fine brushes, i've spent too much time on this project to cheap out with some cheapo box store brush good idea on the top for the brush, have done this before with my oil paint and poly projects, but this stuff is water based so as long as i have an airtight seal on the lid it's all good since i can wash with warm water.
  10. and that is why i have to use water based lacquer. i used an acrylic rattle can (see rustoleum post) to finish the guitar, i spoke with the rustoleum people and the stringed instrument lacquer i intended to use is NOT an option. as i have this guitar looking beautiful (pics posted when done) i needed a product that wouldn't melt the finish (which traditional MEK based lacquer would have). Water based was my ONLY option. Kinda leaped before i looked, but it's turning out good nonetheless newbie question- witness lines? specific question- what style brush were either of you using 2 1/2" fine latex sash brush seems right to me
  11. on the can it recommends cutting 20% for brush on jobs. brushing is not my first choice either, but i wanted to see what kind of results the folks here have had after seeing that printed on the label as brush on would save me time and money if it is possible to do.
  12. so what would you recommend as the best way to mount it for brushing? i was thinking to hang it that way i can get 360 degree access to catch runners, with it thinned so much i should have a good amount of working time so i'll be able to brush them out. i've done a lot of vertical poly on wainscotting, cabinets, and doors. That bass is fantastic btw
  13. I'm looking to finally wrap up my project and was wondering if anybody has brushed on the Stewmac Colortone Water based Lacquer. I'm an experienced painter and have worked with a wide variety of poly's, oil, and water based paint with fantastic runner free smooth finishes. I'm looking for any pointers or experiences from anybody who has brushed this stuff on. I know spraying is optimal, but for the sake of this post let's assume it's not an option. Thanks!
  14. I actually just called Rustoleum. The Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer B611-1406 has too much MEK and will eat thr rustoleum finish away. As will any other MEK based finish. HOWEVER the Behlen water based will work with the Rustoleum Hard Hat/ Industrial line of enamels. Thanks for the help and i'll post pics when it's done. This site is the best resource i've encountered.
  15. I am ready to finish coat a custom guitar i put together. This is the first I have attempted any actual finish work on a guitar, but have spent years doing cabinetry and such. I used a Rustoleum Gloss Black Enamel Spray Paint as my base colour, but want to put a clear lacquer over it to toughen and protect the finish. I am getting a quart of nitro cellulose lacquer from stewmac and am having a buddy spray it for me. My concern now is that the lacquer will interact with the enamel. Does anybody have any input on this? I know i didn't use the best method and such and i intend to be a little more orthodox next time, but for now any input will be appreciatted as cold weather is prohibiting me from starting over and i would really like to get this project together before the snow flies.
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