Jump to content

shimmy

Members
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About shimmy

shimmy's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. So heres a pic of the new and old bridge.....the old one is the top and new is bottom... as you can see the bridge willl be held down by 2 small bolts.. The finish is reasonably thick so Im guessing the only way is going to be to cut it out exactly the same as the new bridge....would the best way to do this be to temporarily correctly position the bridge in exact spot using the bolts to hold it down then trace around it? and cut that line out? Or just cut directly around the bridge while its mounted? Thanks alot Shimmy
  2. The raising you're referring too is a very natural occurance...It happens to most accoustic guitars over time....Its from the soundboard being pulled by the string tension.. You should be able to clamp the sides of the bridge flat and that will hold the middle down on its own
  3. The knife I used was just the thinnest putty knife I could find....I heated it over a candle Worked like a charm...... It appears as tho it was hide glue....it had a yellowish color and was fairly brittle...from what I can see, its the original bridge from when the guitar was new.....(takamine).. I would love to hear this option ... The new bridge is about 1/4 inch bigger at the wings and a millimeter or so at the back..... Im just waiting for the camera batteries to charge and Ill take a pic Thanks Shimmy
  4. PS sorry I downsized the pic right down but it still kept coming up large?? I couldnt find any rules on posting pics.... Please let me know if this is too big Thanks Shimmy
  5. Ok so.... The hot knife worked really well...its really slipped through like a hot knife thru butter Umm the new replacement bridge is a bit bigger than the old one....expecially at the ends its a fair bit thicker.. This is a good thing since it'll cover up the footprint of the old one nicely but do I have to cut the finish away to match the new bridge before I glue it? Im guessing I need to align the new bridge, trace around it and cut the finish away.. One other thing, Ive uploaded a pic of the bridge footprint..I was hoping someone could tell me if it needs to be fillled before gluing.. This pic is directly after the bridge has been taken off...no sanding etc..... Thanks alot Shimmy
  6. thanks alot rich.... Ill let you know how i go Cheers Shimmy
  7. Yea they look great and I'd buy one in a second if they were available in australia.... Its so much harder to get things here What do you think about using a hot knife or spatula? Thanks again for your help...
  8. Hmm....yea chunks could certainly cause issues One of the heating irons Stew Mac sells for heating bridges is just a piece of metal with a wooden handle that you first heat on a hotplate before heating the bridge.... Would something like this work? If I was to get the right kind of metal to hold the heat, pre heat it and then use it to heat the bridge? I guess that way I could get something of a safe size..... Thanks alot Shimmy
  9. Hi, Jst after some different tips and opinions on removing a bridge on an accoustic guitar.....I know heat is favorable method, but the finish on this guitar is very weak and I wanted to try and stay away from anything that might cause it damage.... Thanks alot shimmy
  10. sorry unclej when i first saw your post all i could see was the quote.... I see so thing to do would be to cut my mold in half perfectly then? and then join it back up again when im ready to join the sides..
  11. I see....It seems as tho my bender might just be the right heat then.. Another thing that Im wondering and didnt think about it till the last minute is.. Ive made a mold out of mdf ( its just the perfect shape of th uke jjigsawed out of 3 pieces of thick mdf and glued together.)...Are you suppposed to cut the side to the perfect length before bending? or cut it after you have bent it, but before you clamp it in the mold? I have seen one guy make 2 molds one for each side so that the excess can hang out of the mold...But then I have seen plenty of people just clamp the sides within a complete mold..I just never see what they do before they do that :S
  12. Hi all Im about to attempt to bend the sides for my uke that Im building. I have prepared a mold. I have read quite a few mixed opinions on preparing the wood to be bent. Some people say soak it for an hour, some say 5 mins and some say dont soak it at all but just mist it down. I will be using the bending pipe. I know it will be different for every timber also. The timber Im using is approx 1.8 mm australian blackwood (black acacia).. Thanks Shimmy
  13. Well I have done a few tests and it seems to be a pretty good temp...at the hotest part of the pipe, the water bounces off, further toward the end the water just steams Im hoping I can find a happy medium part of the pipe that works well...
  14. haha yea... I went very cheap as well....Ended up going to a car exhaust place and getting an off cut....I picked up what used to be a freezer deffroster back in the 80's by the looks of it but its just a element shaped long and skinny.... fits perfectly in the pipe and heats it really well.. Im about to try it out tomorrow and Im terrified..... Any last minute tips anyone? what not to do;s? Cheers Shimmy
×
×
  • Create New...