Jump to content

egdeltar

Established Member
  • Posts

    382
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by egdeltar

  1. i mark them with a pencil, then line up my 90 degree jig, clamp it with a mini c clamp and use a hand drill.
  2. I say why route anything? or even cut anything? His "first build" which looks like a just an assembly not actually a build and he's allready buggered it up a bit. I think at this stage getting out the power tools might lose some limbs. hahaha' Considering the body is allready finished & buffed Id remove the fret at the 23 fret and cut there, saving the piece you cut off to trace as a template. Draw a center line on the back of the neck before you cut, then sand that puppy to fit the pocket. Also Id take like a 3/32 drill bit and drill the 23rd fret slot in the center of the neck to see if the truss rod is there.
  3. Id try tightening the rod to open the crack, apply some CA glue then loosen the rod to close the crack. like some one said above sounds like a lack of wood behind the rod. it could be doomed no matter what you do.
  4. a bad crowning job on those frets could have a minor effect. but I mean it would have to be REALLY bad.
  5. I'd just use a dremel with a base and a 2 flute bit. You can double side tape anything straight to use as a guide. mask of all of the area you are cutting. shouldn't have any issues.
  6. Definitely sounds like some sort of contaminant. Or you possibly are spraying to heavy and it is gassing off.
  7. I think this can be easily achieved by mixing colortone vintage amber with a few drops of cherry red, and I mean just barely enough to give it a SMALL red tint in with a 90/10 nitro. spray that, mix up a bit of blue and red until you get the purple you want and burst that on. working very so gently from the out side in. Of course have a good base of about 10 cotes before.....those cheap guns from harbor freight are perfect. best thing is once they crap out you can just toss them and go buy another without feeling bad. Test it on some scrap first, I think you will find its a lot easier than you are building it up to be. It just takes patience.
  8. I use a go bar deck and a call to glue on my backs and tops. You can make go bars out of old tent poles or just buy some fiberglass rods. very easy to use and adds a bit of fun over standard clamps.. hahaha I am with verhoevenc on the braces. That is A LOT of brace material there and might shut down the top a bit. I would have scalloped the bajeezus out of those! and your bridge plate is a whopper! Looking niiiiice though.
  9. She is gorgeous! I too use a shinto rasp on all my necks. great tool...
  10. I'd be worried about the ferrules shutting down the top.
  11. Very nice, are you gonna do this on a steam pipe or a fox bender?
  12. Its sounds great so far. The cedar top gives it a really nice warm sound. I'll give her a few months before she really opens up and I can form an open on her sound.
  13. Finished this birdhouse up on friday. Bolivian Rosewood 3 piece back & sides. Cedar Top 2 Piece Mahogany neck, Ebony head cap, Ebony fret board. Ebony & Maple binding & wedge. Bone nut & saddle, Ebony bridge. Nitrocellulose finish crappy pics....I know! those are hand prints on the wedge. guess i should have polished her before the photo shoot!
  14. http://www.reuterguitars.com/mainsite/jerrycaster.htm One of the head guys at Roberto Venn. total dead head....
  15. Bluesy is on the right track. I would measure your first couple of frets also to insure your scale length is 100% correct.
  16. The pups sounds great. I finished everything up, intonated and set her up on Friday. She plays great!! Yeah I made the cavity a bit oversized just in case I feel like adding some BS down the road....and it lightened the guitar up a bit.
  17. My finish process goes something like this: day 1. 2 wash coats 50/50 lacquer to thinner. I like Mcfaddens the best. 1-2 top coats that are 90/10. pour fill if needed, let gas off for 2 days. day 2. 5 top coats. scuff sand the next morning with 220, let gas off for the day. day 3. color day, plus 5 full coats. drop fill where needed. scuff sand the next morning, try to get it as flat as possible, let gas off for a day. day 4. 5 full coats, drop fill if needed. flat sand the next morning, let gas off for a day. day 5. 2 light coats. let cure for 2 weeks, wet sand with 600 then 1000 grit then buff. There is no sense in doing any finish sanding while you are still technically building it. Once the building stage is complete, CLEAN your entire work space. Finish sand to 220, any higher and the lacquer doesn't stick too well. Clean your work space again. Once its done curing you want an immaculate clean area to work on it.
  18. That piece of metal on the pick guard is acting like a chassis ground for all your pots and switches.
  19. Yeah its a bad idea in my opinion for a couple reasons. I wouldnt want to damage the frets while I have the neck clamped down for carving. The biggest reason that comes to mind for me is the fret board surface is gonna move and change shape once it is joined to another piece of wood, then move even more once you torque on the truss rod. So now there is no real way to tell if your fretboard surface is level before fretting. Which of course makes fretting all that much harder. Less work you have to do to the fretbaord surface+good fret install= less work for the level crown and polish. The less fret material removed the better.
  20. Table saw with the stew mac blade and a sled/jig with a pin and a fret scale template.
  21. For Gibson style I just ruff out the angle on the band saw, then clean up the fretboard surface and front head stock surface on the edge sander laying flat. Get my crown points situated there then I thickness my headstock on the thickness sander.
  22. Its a EVO in the bridge and a tone zone in the neck.
×
×
  • Create New...