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Voting for March 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - VOTE HERE!

mikhailgtrski

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About mikhailgtrski

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  • Birthday 01/10/1963

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  • Location
    Bremerton WA USA - where the maple thieves dwell
  1. Mr. Jehle's Cigar Box - a six-stringer with the coolest headstock overlay ever! Another good month - congratulations to all.
  2. Very nice, Phil. Thanks for sharing. I had given up on a slotting jig due to the less-than-accurate nature of my cheapo Craftsman tablesaw. This concept solves that problem. Mike
  3. Hi, sorry, didn't realize this thread was still active... I've been "away" from this forum - building an amp. Almost done. Steal all you want... It's totally PRS anyway. For the faux binding I masked off both sides, using 1/8" green 3M pinstriping tape at the edges, then sealed it with 1 or 2 lb. shellac, two or three coats (you can also use thinned lacquer). Once it dried, I unmasked it and scraped any areas where the shellac got under the tape. The trick in masking is to not stretch the tape (it will tend to lift) and to rub it down hard to get a good edge seal. Take your time and make sure the line is perfect! Once the binding edges were cleaned up I masked the bottom edge with the 1/8" green, then masked off the entire top so I could pore fill, stain and seal the back. After the back was sealed (again with the shellac, although I'll probably use lacquer next time, as the alcohol in the shellac likes to redissolve the dye, making blotches) I unmasked the top, then masked just the sides in preparation for dyeing the top. Once the top was done I used a razor blade (taped onto a plastic strip for a depth stop) to scrape the dye off the top edge of the "binding". I made it a little wider than I had planned, and found that the dark brown had soaked in really deep, so the binding has the figure "enhanced" as well. It looks ok, but I prefer just the white maple. Lesson is, don't scrape it too wide, just the edge like a PRS. Anyway, hope that makes sense. There are other (probably simpler) ways to do it. I adapted my method from the StewMac Trade Secrets "PRS Blue Tele" tutorial, and Myka's process pages. Good luck with it, and be sure to post some pics. Mike
  4. FWIW it's a little more brown than the pics show... in the daylight it looks a bit like this tortoise shell PRS, maybe a shade or two darker. Indoors the red seems to show a little more, like this one.
  5. Lacquer the bass, hang it up, then start on the wifey's axe. No patience required.
  6. I started with rattlecan, then switched over after 5 coats when I got my compressor. You can get a good finish with the 'cans, it's just takes more work. Personally, I'd skip the sanding sealer and just spray some light lacquer coats to seal in the dye. That's seven months including experiments, downtime, and Other Things To Do. It really could be done in a week or two, plus a month + for curing. I think that's about the best "3D" pic I have. Perhaps a video clip... or 3D glasses would help? The figure really shifts when you move it in the light.
  7. Four months? More like seven for the finish, eighteen for the whole project. Real Life and Other Things To Do conspire to thwart Progress. (still not 100% - but it's getting regular playing time anyway. )
  8. like this? There's no black at all... tobacco brown, cherry red, lemon yellow. The recipe is here in my tortoise shell thread. Depending on the light it either looks more reddish or more brown, kind of a cool effect. Mike
  9. It's not black, but maybe these process pics will give you an idea... initial dye: sandback then some passes of diluted brown, red, and yellow... finished product My experience has been that you have to sand it back much lighter than you'd expect. The dye in the figure darkens up quite a bit once you get the top coats and lacquer on it. No idea about an oil finish, but my gut says that it won't look nearly as good on a dyed figured top compared to a glossy clearcoat. Hope that helps. Mike
  10. Nice. No, Ridgid isn't a K-Mart el cheapo brand. They've been in business a long time manufacturing industrial pipe threading equipment, etc. I think most of their newer power tools are made in China now, but the ones I've looked at seem to be very solid, good quality. Mike
  11. You could always do the surgical tubing trick if you need to raise them a bit. That's what I do with direct-mounted single coils.
  12. The soapbar style mounts with a couple of screws through the pickup itself, in between the pole pieces.
  13. Congratulations, that's pretty cool. Now, when you get Alex Lifeson to play one of your guitars, well, then I will definitely have to vote for it.
  14. Looks minty-green to me also... of course I've got the same slight colo(u)rblind thing going on. I love that LP! Cerb's bass is very nice too. Another month of fine entries all around - congratulations to all! Mike
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