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Entry for July 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

shad peters

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About shad peters

  • Rank
    GOTM Multiple Winner
  • Birthday 07/28/1989

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  • Location
    muncie indiana
  1. the worst thing I found about working with the Oak was that the pores are stinking huge! hence I think it is best suited for satin type finishes (at least for me) but the figured stuff does look beautiful. To see it in person it really even cooler, the curl creates a very unique pattern in the quarter sawn rays, and the combination of the rays and curl together is really breathtaking.
  2. this was a tough month for me to decide but ultimately I had to go with the ash/wenge guitar. nylon one was a pretty close second for that guitar is beautiful
  3. 7-string Ranger After some of the guitars entered this month I debated heavily weather or not I even wanted to take the time to enter, but I haven't finished anything new for a bit, so I figured I might as well. This is my first seven string guitar, its made from all domestic wood consisting of a curly quartersawn white oak top and neck, chambered black walnut back, curly black walnut pickup covers bridge base and knobs, and hickory fretboard. Its got dimarzio pickups, hipshot tuners, and switchcraft/cts electronics. This guitar is kinda outside the norm for me as far as style goes, but it was an interesting excursion into the world of extra strings- a good intro for the baritone 8 string hollowbody I'll be starting on soon. Just figured I'd throw it up for kicks. just to address the inevitable comment ahead of time it is not sitting on the concrete, I just like to concrete as a sort of industrial backdrop for some guitars, rest assured it is resting safely upon cork pads. ranger #4 seven string by Peters Instruments, on Flickr ranger #4 seven string by Peters Instruments, on Flickr ranger #4 seven string by Peters Instruments, on Flickr ranger #4 seven string by Peters Instruments, on Flickr
  4. I believe there has been some sort of mistake, you clearly have me confused with someone who knows what they are doing lol.
  5. I am loving this build! can't wait to see it complete
  6. I just finished this one up a couple of weeks ago so I figured I go ahead and enter this month. This is my Avenger body style, sort of my take on the modern double cut. It has a carved curly maple top, curly maple neck, eastern black walnut back, EIR fret board, and black wood for the binding, bridge base, tailpiece, truss rod cover, pickup rings, and knob tops. The pickups are p-rails, and its got a mini switch to control each on in addition to a master volume, master tone, and three way pickup selector. more photos on my flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/with/8442391389/#photo_8442391389 avenger 1 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr avenger 1 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr avenger 1 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr avenger 1 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr
  7. Scott thanks for the kind words, I don't think I belong in the same category as david myka, but I'll take the compliment though . I have plans for some future build threads I would like to include here on project guitar. Right now I don't have much of anything that isn't already half completed and I really like to start build threads from the beggining rather than pick up half way through. I'm fairly active on several forums, and I try not to post up duplicate build threads either on different cites which makes it kinda tricky at times. I'm honored that you would like to see some of my process though, and hopefully I don't let you down when the time comes to start some new threads. I think you are probably right about that top being somewhat polarizing(and the hardware choice for that matter), but that is ok. Guitars like this seem to be that way and I really wasn't expecting to win this month (if I were I would not have voted for yours lol ), I mostly just entered to get some feedback, the guys on here are always great about that and never let me get away with anything.
  8. Tough month for me to pick, I like both Scottr's build and demonyx very much. I'm not a huge fan of the color on either of them but that is just a matter of personal taste, they were both executed very well. I'm not a huge fan of the through f-hole but I do like the body shape and the carve on Scott's a little better. For me the clincher was the back, the backside of Scott's is beautiful. For this reason it got my vote
  9. if you can find some pretty easy then I'd do that, but no harder than wooden rings are to make I would think it be quicker (at least for me) to just make a pair than to scrounge the internet trying to find the right part. Thats not so much a function of me being very quick at making pickups rings as it is being pretty slow finding stuff on the internet.
  10. I really don't have a clue, but if I were guessing I would say some type of nitro if it is supposed to be a reissue. I could be 100% wrong though.
  11. welcome from a young'n! Looking forward to learning from your years of experience.
  12. Buckeye Carved top Vixen Top: 1 piece buckeye burl Back: two peice black walnut, chambered Neck: Curly claro walnut Binding: curly maple Fretboard: EIR Knobs & pup rings: EIR Logo: copper Inlays: abalone Nut: bone Bridge and tailpiece: antiqued bronze finish Tuners: Grover antiqued bronze finish Pickups: Wolfetone DR. Vintage Electronics: Master volume: Series-Parrallel Push-Pull Master tone: Bridge phase reverse Push-Pull Mini Toggles: Series/single/parallel for each pickup Pickup selector: 3-way toggle I had someone contact me a little over a year ago who was interested in having a guitar like this made, but never went through with it. By the time I found out he backed out it was to late, the seed had already been planted and the wheels were turning and I had a lot of ideas, so earlier this year in the spring I got my but in gear and started building. When I play this guitar I almost feel like its hugging me, I love the feel of it, its a guitar I would play regularly. The neck carve is perfect(for me at least ), its beefy but not a chunker though, just nice and comfortable in your hand. I love the looks and the feel on this one, and the wiring scheme gives you a plethora of tones. Its the deepest carve and recurve I have done to date and was over all just a fun experiment. vixen 5 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr vixen 5 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr vixen 5 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr vixen 5 by Peters Instruments, on Flickr
  13. this has just been my experience but from the wood that I have handled sugar maple has a slightly more amber hue to i than silver maple (those are the hard and soft varieties we have around here, not sure about other places), but thats not allways the case and not really much to go on. the main thing is density as Chris pointed out. You might also look at growth rings and rays, growth ring will likely be tighter for a hard maple since they usually grow a lot slower (at least sugar maple does) and I have never seen soft maple with very prominent rays on the quartered side. If you see really strong rays that could be a give away.
  14. Ok so I have been trying to figure the way that works for me to make wooden knobs for a while. I love the look of wood knobs but I have never liked making them and always struggled trying to get them to look the way I want. I have seen people cut them with plug cutters, as well as turn them on a lathe and really neither method worked well for me. My main issue with both of these methods has not been turning a dowl, or cutting a plug but rather getting everything centered properly to drill for the pot shaft, and then countersinking it for the threads, nut, and washer of the pot. Chris v has a nice and elegent solution to this problem, which many people have probably seen, where you simply get a forstner bit of the same diameter as your knob, drill a hole in a board clamped to the drill press and then insert the knob in the centered hole, where you can drill for the shaft and counter sink for the nut. If you have nice equipment this works really well, however most of my power tools are older than me and the drill press is no exeption. Because its so old the bearing are worn and its about like lighting striking the same place twice trying to do it this way. I also had issues trying to get the knob to seat down firmly and not spin once in contact with the bit. While I successfully made some nice knobs in this way I always ruined more than I made, and it was a frustrating time consuming process. This cuased me to look for a different method, and I settled on a variation of the plug cutter method that uses a hole saw. I wanted to be able to cut my plug, drill the shaft hole, and countersink for the nut all in one motion. This requires a hole saw with a pilot bit that is removable( I used a one inch whole saw which cuts a plug just under 7/8). Other size saws will work as well and the beauty is that you can easily change between sizes offering you multiple knob diameters. I replaced the pilot bit with a 9/16 spade bit that I ground to look like this. the spade bit can easily be shaped with a belt grinder to get the correct shoulder and shank depths. The nice thing about this method is that not only does it solve the problem of getting things properly centered (which is probably only a problem for me) but it also makes cutting knobs a lot faster. You don' have to set up anything special for a multi step process, and you don't have to change out through several bits and cutters for each knob. The hole saw also creates far less waste than a plug cutter does, which can make a big difference when you are talking about expensive exotic woods. The hole saw still works just fine as a whole saw, simply swap the original pilot bit back in. this mehtod has worked really nicely for me so far, although I think I will make a new center bit from a 5/8 spade bit rather than the 9/16 which should give slightly better clearance around the larger nuts found on cts and some other pots. this little tool only took maybe an hour or two make, and it really speeds up the knob making process. Its already saved me a lot of time, hopefully some of you will find it as useful as I have. here you can see it all put together with the bit recessed in the saw. I set it so that it leaves about an eighth of an inch between the teeth and tip of the spade bit.
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