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christhegreat

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About christhegreat

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  1. What could cause contamination? Dust or something else? And yes I did leave it outside to allow it to dry and it might have got exposed to the sun.
  2. I used SS in a spray form and I get hundreds of small spots in certain areas, how can I prevent this from happening? So you're saying the tiny scratches I get are normal when I sand and that they'll dissapear when shooting the first clear coat? Now I feel kind of dumb. But still I want to be sure since I wasn't careful enough at the begining of my project and I had to sand the whole veneer two times; what a loss of time. thanks.
  3. Hi. I'm now into testing the sanding sealer on my scraps. I use Deft's lacquer sanding sealer on stained flamed maple. I did spray until the surface was smooth. Then that's when I had a problem. They say to sand lightly with #220. As I lightly sanded, the surface became full of scratches and whitish. I got scared and tried out sanding with 400 grit this time, and got less scratches but still enough so that it doesn't look good. The surface is now matte, and I didn't sand through the sealer. I'd like to know if it's normal that it becomes so full of scratches and gets whitish. I tried using a dry rag, no results. With a wet rag the surface got back it's normal color while damp. What sshould I do? thanks.
  4. Indeed I'm using a flamed maple veneer. I use alcohol-based dye. Ok. I did wet the wood and then sanded while wet, and it gave a not really deep finish. I'll give it a try on scrap, to see if it makes a difference, but the results I had without sanding are satisfying.
  5. I understand about the need to have a good figure in the first place, which I have. It's only that in a tutorial it was said to wet sand three or four times using 400 grit before staining, in order to reduce the grain raising. Staining
  6. Hi. I've read the tutorials on staining, and I was testing them on scrap pieces of flamed maple. I discovered some samples had almost no figure, while others had real deep 3d figure. I'd like to know which steps of the staining process could kill the figure like that. -Can it be wet sanding too much with 400 grit when prepping the wood? -Could it be if there's too much stain? I'm asking. Thanks.
  7. Great. I knocked on the wood and checked every little spot on the guitar and everything came out great, glued tight. I just hope I won't run against other problems. thanks again
  8. Ok. I checked again the veneer. It rested a couple of days. I tried to poke it with a pinhead, but no glue came out. I noticed the waving is only detectable when touching the surface, and looking at a certain angle. The waving is less than 1mm thick, and feels very hard, like there was too much glue under that part. I'd like to know if by sanding down flat I could achieve a good result. Also what's the ratio you use to dilute the titebond with water? The good thing is that I work in a hardware store so I'll get the clamps I need pretty soon at discount. I just thought I didn't need them since the tutorial seemed so easy to do. If there's no way to save the job, I'll grab my sander and do it again using clamps and a board this time. thanks.
  9. Actually I removed the ironed veneer. I practiced glueing on scrap and everything came out perfect, I suppose because I used small testing surfaces. This time I used the weight bag method like on the tutorial on the project guitar site. I spreaded titebond on both the guitar and the veneer, a nice coat, nbut enough so that I always see the wood through the glue, and taped the veneer along the centerline, then placed the weight bag (30Kg) on the guitar, making sure the weight was equally distributed. And yes I'm determined to get the veneering job done. For the finishing job I already got the color and depth I wanted with the stain. I'm only having trouble with glueing the veneer correctly to the body. But you're all great help, and I'll go get a book on veneering to avoid some silly mistakes I could make again. thanks.
  10. Hi. I glued a flamed maple veneer on a basswood body using titebond. After the glue cured, I noticed the veneer was waving a bit at some spots. I'd like to know what I could do to help it. I already tried using a cloths iron but it didn't really help. Will I have to sand back and redo the job? And when I'll glue the veneer how can I make sure it won't be waving like it did? thanks.
  11. Hi. I got this product: Waxine products You'll tell me it's in french. On the bottle of red and black stain/dye, it's all french. The problem is that in french dye and stain both mean the same word. In the woodworking store I was, the salesperson didn't know the difference. So I'd like to know if what I have is a stain or a dye. I'll translate the info to help you out. They say it is alcohol-based, with transparent pigments. Colors can be blended together or diluted with methanol. On the bottle they say it's made from: Acetone, Diéthylène, glycol, monométhyl and methanol. It would be great to know if the product I have is a stain or a dye to use it as a reference for future uses. thanks a lot.
  12. Here it is. It's the post #32 of topic Veneer problem.
  13. Hi there. I was suggested to use the Iron method to glue the veneer onto the guitar body. The veneer is flamed maple. 1) Spreaded titebond on both surfaces using a credit card to apply an even coat. 2) Waited a couple of hours till the glue is dried. 3) Used heat from an iron to glue the pieces together. When I practiced on scrap, I didn't notice any shrinking, and the glue joint was solid, so I glued the veneer on the guitar. The problem is the veneer shrinked so much I have a gap of an eight of an inch between the two pieces. I will remove the veneer, that's no problem. But I'd like to know if I did something wrong or if it is normal that the veneer shrinks a bit, and what could I do to orevent this from happening? Thanks.
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