Jump to content

Entry for January 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

Voting is also open for Guitar Of The Year 2019 - VOTE HERE!


GOTM Winner
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


komodo last won the day on December 28 2019

komodo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

359 Excellent

About komodo

  • Rank
    "The only constant in the universe is change."
  • Birthday 12/30/1966

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Brewing, general mischievousness (and specific)
  • Country Flag
    Bloomington, IN USA

Recent Profile Visitors

2,692 profile views
  1. I guess this is done. After putting the center star flare star in I wish it was the smallest instead of larger, as it breaks the illusion. But the flares nexus was also not realistic. Also, since the top flare tilted on inlay and is very shallow on one end, it may disintegrate as I do final sanding, so we may not be done yet. Lastly, the two tiny pearl areas to the left of the star flare just disintegrated as there was so little area. I may be able to set in some tiny triangles, but not today. Overall I’m happy I could get this much!
  2. @Prostheta It's fine. It's still quite metally, snips with fret trimmers but with just a little bit of al dente. Silver is an excellent material. In college I took every jewelry smithing class they had to take advantage of the large studio while I was there. All the other graphic deigners took photography, which I thought was ridiculous as I could do that any time and anywhere. I played with copper, brass and silver a lot, and silver easily takes the cake overall.
  3. Slow going. Tiny and careful work. Right now I’m getting the tiny star flares in, but also one of the bigger flares must not have seated on one end, as it is extremely thin and pulling up. So, I’ll have to either feather in a piece on top of it or get it out and put a new one in. When all the flares are in, I’ll drill and place one star at the center point to hide the joints. The channel for the small flares is .008 to give you idea of scale.
  4. Next stop, silver star flares. That bit on the end of the big one should disappear as I do final sanding. That part broke and sank a little lower, so the ebony/CA is built ip on that edge.
  5. I’ve used the same as a depth gauge for drill bits but hadn’t considered doing it on a router bit. RE: pearl dust. I wouldn’t want to route it. Even with the jewelers saw it creates dust so fine that when you brush it off the surface, it goes into suspension and rises up like a cloud. I’m masked always, even for little trimming.
  6. Excavated and inlaid. Many ideas of templates and circular jigs have been in my head, deciding how to do the routes. In the end I did it freehand using my 1/32” mill, which is really no issue as thats exactly how slow you should be doing it. The only real problems are visibility (lots of light, head magnifier), and clearing the dust (stop often and brush). It’s still somewhat sloppy, but the ebony dust / CA trick works the absolute best with Gaboon. Inlays pressed in, packed with saved Gaboon dust then flooded with very thin CA. My wife asked “are you happy with it”? As I told her, I really don’t know until it’s filed and sanded down. That’s when you can really see the fruit of your labors. The accuracy of cutting and filing the pearl ends up being way more important than the excavation of the ebony. I know there are inlay artists who will cut it so close that you can actually snap the inlay in....I’m not one of them. Ha. That last pic is for @Prostheta, thats my largest silver wire hammered down to make the star flares. I’ll probably try it with my smaller wire as this is still pretty fat. Those channels might be sawed with my .008 saw. I can see the end of the tunnel now!
  7. Crushed. I survived on Rush and Sabbath for a long time.
  8. This is exactly what I'll be doing today. On the Black Queen, the stars are silver wire, but for the star with light flares I've hammered the thickest silver wire into ribbon. Today I will route (or cut) a thin channel and inlay the ribbon to make the flares. Whereas pearl gets extremely delicate as you cut fine detail, the wire can be hammered as paperthin as you want and it's still metal. Also, it will be contrasted by the pearl planets next to it. Of course this is all great on paper...check my thread later to either see it done, or a pile of tears.
  9. Watching news, I better finish this damn guitar so I get a chance to play it. ffs
  10. As mentioned I’ve recut one side of the small planet. In the second picture with the long whisker - that one broke and has been CAd. Though I’m saving it as a backup. If you look at the design, long skinny bits going horizontally down the board are no big deal. Going vertically has to follow the radius, so that’s a trick. It’ll probably require being more than one piece.
  11. The astute can see in the earlier picture that the small planet had too much circumference. Major pucker as I cut the thinnest sliver off of the thinnest piece and it’s thinnest part. Lots of blade lube, slow and steady, keep the blade vertical. If the blade tilts at all, you tend to push the piece up and slam it down cracking it. Then some uber fine filing and sanding to get it close.
  12. I’m puckering alright. Actually not worried about the excavation, high speed endmills cut well, and its shallow. Getting the thin curves to be visually accurate (realism) is the hard part. Your eye can see the slightest curve changes. I thought it would be cutting the thin pieces, but that’s not been an issue. I’ve still got some work on the smaller “planet”, it need to be trimmed down to make it more believable like the printout. My plan is for the “star with rays” to be silver. The rays will need to be dead straight, and thin AF. If I can get it 92.6% right . . . and look like two planets with edge lighting and not two clunky chunks of pearl - I’ll be happy.
  • Create New...