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komodo

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komodo last won the day on August 26

komodo had the most liked content!

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About komodo

  • Rank
    "The only constant in the universe is change."
  • Birthday 12/30/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bloomington, IN
  • Interests
    Brewing, general mischievousness (and specific)
  • Country Flag
    us

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  1. This build is weird. It doesn’t seem that hard, but every turn seems to have some aspect that isn’t straightforward. The Trisonics are very shallow, pretty much surface mount. But they had little tabs on either side that should be covered. I could do rings of a sort? With screws? IDK The RS trem was originally top installed, I’d like to do rear, but with a carved top. Hmm. Sorting neck angle and pocket, but fretboard end detail is going to complicate that. I’m leaning towards going with a more tradition carve top now, but going back to chambers. F hole or not? Anyhoo, I’ve gone and bought a vintage Stanley Bailey No 6 because it seems like a good time to justify another tool. I’ve pinned the halves together, sanded the edge and am building templates. Slow and steady.
  2. Slightly changed my plan around the neck joint, so I redid the heel block. Neck is set into the body a little more. Rough cut the top and bottom body halves. The maple is extremely dense, the ebony is like steel and the swamp ash is like styrofoam. Weight of both halves as-is: 5lb 11oz. I was worried it would be too light! This is going to be a small and thin bodied guitar, with regular weight. Perfect. Still considering chambers.
  3. In the end I was able to get everything drilled with only 5 more deaths. The real trick was the runout, mostly in how it was chucked. Once I had a bit placed in there I would hand tighten and then check it visually. You could easily tell if it was off at all, and then would loosen, spin the bit and reset it. They only needed a couple light turns of the chuck key to hold, if I tightened further it would sometimes throw it off (this is a good press). As @curtisasaid, plunge speed also factored in the breaks. Loading the holes with glow powder was interesting, as it doesn't want to stay in there like ebony dust would. It;s very dry and granular, like super fine sand. After filling, I'd tap the board several times to settle, then fill again before flooding with CA. Im still sanding it off to evaluate, but in the light I don't love it - it needs more varied star shapes. Then I turned off the lights and it's breathtaking. So, we'll see. I;m feeling a real sense of urgency to get it done so I can spray this year. I'm debating whether to spray nitro on the top and oil finish neck, back and sides.
  4. LOL all suggestions are welcome. The glow powder I picked shows as white when in the light and glows when in the dark. Already did tests, works great.
  5. It does not evacuate wry well at all, but when I pull it up it brings the material with it and easily knocks off with just a tiny tap. You are correct on runout, my spindle is good, but even a slight difference when you clamp the chuck on the bit can break it. I am NOT doing fiber optics!! I’ve got glow powder, will fill and CA, just like the ebony filling trick.
  6. Did rough fretboard radius and started drilling “stars”. Have a new design instead of the 12th fret inlay, sort of a negative space black hole planet thing. Had 5 carbide bits, broke all in short order, they are only .040”. Found 40 on ebay for $10 so I figure that’ll get me through the board LOL. I need to get this pig done soon so I can spray while I still have some weather. Life has been SO busy.
  7. Don't get me wrong, all I've ever played out of is big tube amps and have also spent a lifetime trying to tame the firebreathers to be tolerable in a small space! Probably a good place to mention that watts and volume are not what most people think. 5 watts can rip your face off and blow the ceiling off. Even 1 watt will.
  8. Can't believe I missed this one. Here's some crap off the top of my head. I setup a temporary booth outside using a very large plastic sheet stapled to deck posts under deck. It makes a largish space, maybe 15 foot square. I pull the spray gun and hose under the sheet and hang it on a nail on a post. Compressor stays outside between this booth and the shop. I'm wearing a full Tyvek suit, head sock, respirator with organic vapor cartridges, and it fits tight. Some kind of eye protection. This is all critical. Holding breath and hoping you don;t breathe overspray isn't even close to OK. That sent me to the ER once, and was very unpleasant, though it was something worse than nitro. I've got desiccant balls, and dry traps inline between the gun and compressor which is critical for nitro. You do not want any moisture coming from the tank or hose to be trapped in the finish. That causes the dreaded cloudy milky haze. ScottR had good advice on coats and frequency. I will tell you that I always push the limits here because I'm gambling on humidity and weather with my temporary outside booth. You decide the ratio of nitro and solvent that you spray, there are different mixes for different stages, for instance a higher solvent ratio for a final light pass can help flow out. I'm always pushing how heavy my coats are, and how many I can get on and have been lucky so far. I wouldn't spray unless I had some blush eraser on hand, it's amazing. It will work days after you spray, but I think there's a point in curing where it has reduced effectiveness.
  9. Tubes can be dependent on volume to get certain sounds. Something like this is smaller and lighter, will cover more situations and music styles and is very highly regarded. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PCKZJOK/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&smid=A3KO61ZGUBAZ09
  10. My coding is limited to After Effects expressions, and I copy and paste those. But I do tell a lot of front end devs what to do Lol.
  11. Gah, I work in marketing! Though I'm the techiest of the designers and tend to lose people when I talk. Zero criticisms for the vids, it's awesome that you are doing them and can't even imagine doing that as well as building. I'll be emulating you by speaking in an english accent while building. (to be fair, this happens anyways as I grew up on Python)
  12. Oh shit I hope that wasn't my comment on the router thing. I pop in sporadically from lunch at work and don't follow up often. If it was, soooooorry, wasn't suggesting alternatives for you but in case someone else following along didn't have a cnc. You are right that build threads should be kept to the build thread and discussions people want to have outside of that should be different threads.
  13. Here’ my fretboard / crosscut sled. Waxed oak rails, Stewmac blade with stabilizer plates, Stewmac notched template for 25” scale. Double stick tape. One pic shows how I line up the template on the bottom and then stick the blank on from the top so I can get it square and see where the cutline is. Flip it over and cut as you move it up the notches. Perfect and fast.
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