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komodo last won the day on February 27

komodo had the most liked content!

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About komodo

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    "The only constant in the universe is change."
  • Birthday 12/30/1966

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  • Interests
    Brewing, general mischievousness (and specific)
  • Country Flag
    Bloomington, IN USA

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  1. Wow thanks for the kind words Norris. I only use the Adobe suite, but thats because its our industry standard in the design world, and free for me.
  2. Sure, I use Adobe Illustrator. Mostly as I'm a graphic designer by trade and use the full Adobe suite every day. It's not an octopus anymore, it;s the unknowable, shall not be named, ancient evil of HP Lovecraft's Cthulhu. The center bit was grabbed from the web, I had it a long time ago to use for a custom bottle cap design for one of my beers. The original design was the octopus, but realizing that I wanted the Lovecraft / Cthulhu, it was a good fit and better than I would've done. It was vector art, so after I brought it into Illustrator, it wasn't hard to make the tentacles, as single lines to get the adjustment just right. Then, apply a brush to them and adjust the point size of the line as desired, Once, I had it nailed, then create outlines of the paths and combine everything so it was a shape.
  3. My thinking is that if I were to flood the fret slots with very thin CA, it may enter the end grain and stabilize the slot edges some. Using it as a finish later on larger surfaces, may have a stabilizing effect instead of just oil finish. Thinking out loud here. I've seen whole guitars finished with CA before.
  4. I wonder if anyone has ever flooded / finished a fretboard with CA to "stabilize" it and make it less chip prone? Doing it right now would probably be the best time as it's before all the inlay cutting. How deep would thin CA go?
  5. Well you certainly have the wood. Will you dye the top blood red? Can't wait to see this one.
  6. Slots. Final scale is 25.5” - 27.5”
  7. My large slab of fret board ebony was still roughsawn and had wax ends. After surfacing on the planer to prep it for slots, I discovered that it’s a thing of beauty end to end. Not the jet black I might have preferred originally, but you couldn’t pry this out of my hands now for anything.
  8. Welcome! With no neck tilt (assumed) put lots of attention to neck pocket depth and neck height above the body. That will largely determine action and playability.
  9. Whelp, our campus maker labs are totally locked down. So, commenced to staring at design printed 100%, chucked a 1/32” bit onto Dremel and pretend routed some elegant tentacle swirls. Mapped out pieces, and cuts. Approximately 65 pieces. I can span frets and cut after, or use the fret slot as a stopping place for a piece. The benefit of spanning is the more natural curves, harder to do with multiple pieces. The only real limitation it my raw stock sizes. Boy I’d love to route and fill with crushed stone, but cutting is actually not hard. Just a lot of cutting. The hardest part here would be scribing each piece. I’m tempted to do a super accurate route, see how it goes, then do super accurate cutting. Hard think inserted here.
  10. Exactly. The fixes I was referring to would be something like - cutting just inside the line, but then you make a little boo boo outside the line. If I was doing the stonedust/CA method, then the "inlay" is now has that boo boo. I'd have to use a sheet of teflon and dam the mistake, fill the gap with ebony powder and CA to fill, sand after dry. Could get hairy fast. @Prostheta You are right, I need to make sure frets are at width, do a final scaling, re-adjust the length of the tentacles, then print it at 100% and lay it on the table. Then, start the long process of deciding which areas will be individual pieces, cutting it apart into those individual pieces, matching the cutouts to raw pearl stock I have, and numbering them. Basically setting up a game plan. The thing is, I have to decide my process first. For pearl, you cut the pearl piece, affix it to the fret board, scribe around it, then excavate. I can't excavate, see how it goes, then decide to cut pearl. For what it's worth, I just bought 1/2 pound of pearl slab from Allied as well as a long truss rod. What I think I'll do is print out, lay it on the table and stare at it. Then lay the Dremel tool on it with my smallest chucked bit and fake trace around it to see if my balls shrivel up or not.
  11. As mentioned in earlier posts, it depends on the method. If I cut pearl, the only issues are sheer scale and the thin bits. The rest is actually easy, it’s just methodical and time consuming. No guesstimate as I’m working full time, this is side stuff and I have another guitar to finish. I could do it in a week or so if I really focused. The other way is excavate perfectly, fill with stone and CA. If the excavation went perfectly, It would basically be done. No telling how many ‘fixes’ I’d have to do, and I’m not even sure how I’d do that accurately. But this way would save ALL of the pearl cutting, which is considerable. There may also be some hybrid method, just not sure yet. Leaning towards the second way.
  12. Always sir. Every single process in this madness is considered that way. In RC airplanes, they call that "flying two mistakes high". For me it won't exactly be uncharted territory, but it will absolutely be crazyville. And, since we are ALL already there . . .no problem!
  13. You are not alone Wes I saw a meme that said "Happy Tuesday, or as we now call it: day
  14. btw- I didnt draw the center bit, thats cthulhu art ripped from the web. Same as I used on the bottle caps of my Cask of Cthulhu imperial porter. After bringing it into Illustrator, I blended the previous version I’d done and that one together. Just showed the wife and got just a little bit more than “thats nice”, so, hit out of the park. wOOt
  15. Hmmm yes, there's that. Either I can excavate a bit looser, cut pearl tighter and fill the gaps. Or, I can excavate perfectly, fill with crushed stone and be done. The second certainly sounds better, but the perfect excavation is going to give me nightmares. I mean, one slip and boom. Actually, I could still kind of fill a gap using a teflon dam, but that gets into some uncharted territory. Or, I could steal a page from the graphic design manual and just do it. Then whatever happens, you come up with a bunch of explanations and rationalizations of why you did that and sell it to the client ("I was going for a distressed look here . . ."). Unfortunately, I am the client, and I know my game better than anyone except for my wife.
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