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komodo last won the day on November 5

komodo had the most liked content!

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About komodo

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    "The only constant in the universe is change."
  • Birthday 12/30/1966

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  • Location
    Bloomington, IN
  • Interests
    Brewing, general mischievousness (and specific)
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  1. @ZekeB The pups come in from the right side in the black sheath, it’s coiled vertically just to the left of the volume and soldered RIGHT there. It’s called insanely OCD UltraClean Ridiculous wiring. My usual cavities and pedal builds look like a rats nest, so for me this will be a new bar to hit. A kind of masochistic act of penance for my previous wiring sins.
  2. Thanks @ScottR I was inspired by your carving and needed to finish this somehow. RE: black dye - you are right Andy, also @ScottRs dye advice had me doing a bunch of dye tests building a dark sandback color using brown red and blue with great success. I’m getting very close to D-day. Tailpiece more or less done (not sure if I should still do the piercing on it), sanding more or less done (I’m going to round over the carve some as it goes into the horns), two ebony repairs on the back (you can see the problems on page 6 by back of the neck pocket), neck angle and depth is dead on. Total weight of body, neck and hardware is right at 8lbs and thats without the final neck carve. I’ll finish that after the fretboard is glued on. Fretboard still has work. I’m probably going to spray before the neck is glued in unless someone tells me a great reason not too.
  3. Holy cow the gloves are off. You guys are great. I’m going to just step quietly out of the room and come back when it’s done.
  4. @ScottR Thanks for that. Spraying the burst should be no issue as I've got a nice jamb gun. It's exactly like a SATA, I've never tried spraying dyes though. The thing that has really been top of mind is getting the really sharp edge on the "binding". Since the body isn't darker wood and I plan on leaving it completely 'white', the top color will wrap over the edge to the depth of binding. To get that sharp edge, my best plan is masking the top and binding area, then spraying sealer (vinyl or shellac) over the back and sides. Then dying the top. Thoughts and trouble spots in that plan: Mask the sides again when you dye the top and try to match that same edge? If shellac is used, it's alcohol soluble and my dyes are alcohol. In the Vik example, the face goes opaque at the edge. Having the binding be transparent at the sides would be nice. Do I have it transparent on the sides or also a bit on the top like binding, and still have the opaque burst? Or just mild burst but still transparent. Thinking out loud here. Still much work to be done. If I can't finish before spray weather is complete crap I'll go mad.
  5. Ha! Thank you @Bizman62. The guitar will get its required sanding, and of course ideally the test pieces should as well - it may help you to feel better knowing this piece received nothing. Straight from the scrap bin.
  6. Closer. Just flooded with denatured alcohol, then wipes of black and hint of purple. This scrap was from a way better piece of quilt than what the guitar is.
  7. @Prostheta You are so right. I had thought, screw it I don't need the phase, and drilled the three minis for plan old on/off for each pup as I have on my Strat and love. But with three on-on-on so I can get phase/flipped phase/off, seems like a winner. I get the cleaner controls on the face, and the combinations of the RS. I was watching a video yesterday of a Red Special meetup with a bunch of people who build or love the RSs. There were maybe 20-30 RSs in the room and tons of playing. It was funny to watch people flipping through all the switch combos. Instead of just hitting the three-way toggle for the solo, they looked like they were using an abacus.
  8. Thanks for the link. Yes, I've been testing for the first dye layers. Everything from black to amber yellow for the first sandback. The trick is any subsequent layer starts to mix and get weird. ie. yellow sanded back with a blue purple over it turns brown. It really looks like the figure in the above example has almost straight black sanded back, but that ends up looking flat. That pic looks great...I wonder if in person it doesn't have the depth of chatoyance that some dye jobs have.
  9. I'd be surprised if the Vik wasn't sprayed - at least the purple and the outer blacks. After reading a bunch last night, this is my plan. I'll wipe the initial sand back layers, then seal with sprayed shellac, grainfill, sealcoat, then tinted lacquers to get the purple/black burst. The seal layer protects in case of a mess up. Your guitar looks similar to what I'm going after, I think the trick is the first colors and the sand back. To get that lightness in the "valleys' and no blotchiness is tricky. Doing a wash of the alcohol first, and then the alcohol stain mixture can precondition the wood so it doesn't blotch up, I'm still testing this.
  10. I’ve been contemplating the finish (again), and have gone back and forth on dying the maple edge or leaving it blonde to go with the ash. The top will be dyed black/purple, light burst. Kinda like this one: Problem is, I don’t know how to do it. I’ve been doing tests, not really close. My guess is that guitar is straight black, sanded back, but when I do it it’s flat and blotchy. Then it looks like either a light trans purple wash or sprayed, and then black burst sprayed. I don’t have an airbrush, so dyes would be sprayed with my gun or maybe tint some nitro?
  11. Finally had the cajones to settle on a control layout and drill straight through the body to commit. Ha. I’ve used the same cavity templates as my earlier dragon guitar. Partially as a nod to myself, partially out of sheer laziness and why not. I’m not sure how I made that cavity so messy using a router template, but I’ve since cleaned it up. My cavities usually look like robot vomit, my goal for this one is to have one of those uber clean layouts that beg for a clear cover. Sort of like that last pic (not mine). I mean would ya just look at it?! They polished the pots. Also, I had decided I didn’t want six switches to do a full Red Special wiring and went with three on-offs. But then today found full Red Special using three on-on-on switches, so thats the plan. (phase-off-other phase)
  12. Carving, shaping, scraping, forever. Then a crap ton of routing. Then more scraping.
  13. As always, I’ve got vision in my head - some is clear, some is “I’ll figure out as I go”. For the tailblock/tremolo cover, this was the case. Mostly, I wasn’t sure how it would resolve with the body carve. I made the carve ‘swoop up’ to the block, but it’s just not resolving, so I will remove that wood and make it a regular carve and shape the tailblock based on this sketch and iphone mockup I made during meetings at work. It adds a kind of Ferrari-like vent that allows a small peek into the cavity to reveal the springs of the special tremolo. I guess I’ll have to polish them up or put LEDs in there.
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