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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. I accidentally used a waxed shellac and when I realized my mistake, I lightly sanded it and I added 2 coats of dewaxed shellac over it, then sprayed the lacquer over it, I just hope the lacquer doesn't peel off because it would be a lot of wasted time, effort and money. So far, on the headstocks, its seems pretty solid but I'm not sure about the bodies with more lacquer layers. Maybe the adherence isn't great because its still fresh? It seems like the dewaxed shellac coats should be sufficient for proper adhesion, but I'm not so sure anymore.
  2. Yeah, I like to use shellac to give the wood a nice hue and it also acts as a sealer and partial grain filler. This is the first time I mix my own shellac. I used a 2lb cut and sprayed it on. I just wasn't sure anymore whether lacquer would work over it with no sanding. I haven't sprayed lacquer in a while.
  3. Do you guys sand a dewaxed shellac base coat when topcoating with Lacquer?
  4. It does depends. On tight, closed grain wood, 180 is what you need to really get that color in. On something like Korina or Mahogany, 220 works well. Sanding to 500 or 600 is a waste of time and the stain or dye will not take as well.
  5. 600 is waaaay to fine for staining. even 220. I rarely go finer than 180. You want to keep the pores open.
  6. Not sure I follow.... Before getting into the other issues, let's just focus on one, fix that and move on. Does the humbucker still hum/buzz? Did you add that brass plate?
  7. Yes, the brass underplate will help you to get a proper ground. You will run a wire from the plate to the ground on the tone/vol circuit of the humbucker. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Bridges/Plate_Mate.html They are easy enough to make yourself. Also, keep in mind that you'll need a small cutout or hole on one side for the piezo wire to come out.
  8. I have worked on the Godin Piezo & Electromagnetic combo in the past and they're pretty straightforward. You will need to get in touch with Godin and ask them for the A6 Ultra wiring diagram. That should help is determining how its supposed to be wired in the 1st place. The A6 has treble/bass controls for the humbucker, which I believe are active. My guess is that the pickup was not installed properly with the tone/volume pot. Really, why do that when there's already an EQ on-board? Do the vol/tone only affect the humbucker? If yes, you could add a brass underplate under the bridge and ground that to the vol/tone pots.
  9. As Scott said, carefully scrape that off. I would try to apply some kind of clear over it when done.
  10. You're not entirely wrong. There's more to it than just that. For example, changing string gauge can affect intonation.
  11. I would not use CA to fill the cracks. I've always used a good quality Epoxy. Apply it generously over the cracks and heat it with a heat gun or hair drier. The Epoxy will seep in and it will become very solid.
  12. For a Genuine Floyd, the nut is not tapered and the "shelf" is 15.4mm.
  13. I had that happen to me on an acoustic guitar repair (delaminating fretboard). After hours of frustration, that string broke, I replaced it and voilĂ ! The problem went away. BTW, when you say "1st E string", that ambiguous. If you say high e or low e, its foolproof.
  14. On the Ibanez bridges, you can set it up so that the scale length makes it to the middle of the saddle range. Then, you have to figure out how to setup the posts compared to that. Ideally, you'd have an example you can copy (easiest) or ask Ibanez for a drawing of the tremolo (probably hard to get), or maybe find one on the 'net. Floyd Rose publishes routing diagrams and I'm pretty sure that the Ibanez Original Edge routing diagrams are available on the 'net as well.
  15. For years, I've been building guitars with tremolos and TOMs but never have I done a build with the ABR-1 TOM. This bridge has the particularity of having a little less saddle travel for the intonation and as such, I'm being very careful with the placement of the posts. The guitar will have a proper 24.75" scale length and the Stew-Mac calculator places the treble bridge post @ 24.811" (630.2mm) and an extra 1/8" (3.175mm) on the bass side. I usually just set the bridge so that the scale length makes it to the mid-point of the saddle adjustment, which means I rarely use the StewMac calculator for this. I mocked up the whole thing with a nut, tuners and a bridge with the saddles in the middle position with the high and low E strung up. I proceeded to do a rough intonation check and placed the bridge where it seemed to be perfect. I checked the measurements and I'm at about 632mm from nut to center of the post on the treble side and about another 4-5mm for the bass side. Why the discrepancy between my values and the StewMac values? The fret board is correct in scale. Could it be that I should not have placed the saddles in the middle for the setup? I always like to have enough travel room for the saddles. The strings are new and had the same result with different strings. I saying this, It is a little hard to get a good measurement from nut to the bridge post holes on the body since the neck is angled so there is a bit of an error there. Am I the only one to run into something like this?
  16. Nice take on the tele. For #2, I would strongly suggest you reconsider the Jatoba neck and body. For having used Jatoba extensively, it is very heavy and dense. I would do a Jatoba top but never an entire body.
  17. I'm looking for a spot repair and something that is as close as possible to the original factory finish so that they age similarily. Laquer will look out of place after a few months.
  18. My acoustic guitar fell the ground ground and the result is a big finish chip. I managed to fix the colour but I now need to apply some clear coat on it. The finish is some sort of industrial poly/urethane finish that has a yellowish tint to it. Any ideas as to what could work well for a repair? I'm thinking that a gel clear coat might work.
  19. I'm not sure I understand your post. You want listeners to listen to identical guitars and ID the woods? That's not what this thread is about.
  20. What is your understanding of a one piece neck? Most of the time, even when there's no separate piece of wood for the fretboard, there's at least a second piece of wood to cover the truss rod channel route on the back of the neck, commonly called the "skunk stripe". Could it be done for a 2 way rod? Yes, but the question is why: I can't see any advantage of making a neck that way.
  21. Actually, the answer is no. I have two neck blanks here and the tap tone tone on them is very different. The wood is from the same tree, same board.
  22. High gain is all about the amp, speakers and pickups. The more distortion you pile on, less and less the guitar's acoustics come in to play. You could play a piece of cardboard and it would sound the same. Play some clean and crunchy tones and the guitar's tone should come out.
  23. On my computer, everything is bunched up and there's a 2" brown stripe on the right of unused space... and yes, the scrolling is very choppy.
  24. Would there be a way to make things a little larger? seems like everything got more squished together, making it harder to read.
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