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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. By how much is it off? If its something like 1/32" to 3/64", the pickup routes should still be ok. Just center the bridge studs on the neck centerline. Next time, you'll know to do a dry fit 1st and check the alignment before glueing. Neck alignment is one of the most crucial parts of guitar building. I always double and triple check before setting the neck and/or drilling bridge bushings.
  2. Yes, re-route the neck pocket so that the neck is angled towards the player. That will have the effect of lowering the action with the bridge set to its lowest position. You probably don't need much so start at a 1 degree angle and go from there. You could also just shim your neck route template at the bridge by 1/8" and re-route. That would be the simplest and most foolproof way to do it.
  3. It's not the angle that's the issue. The issue is that the neck simply sits too low in relation to the bridge. The neck needs to be raised because I've lowered the bridge as far down to the body as I can get it. The neck angle will allow you to raise the bridge a little. Its easily routed in the neck pocket.
  4. Gluing the fretboard against a straightedge or something like it is something I'm going to start doing from now on. Gluing a fretboard with clamps and wood blocks just doesn't cut it IMO.
  5. I agree, that is very nice. Do major manufacturers makes their LP neck joint this way? Seems like a faster, more simple method.
  6. ^^^ Thats a pretty bad generalization. So, I chose the best neck joint I could think of against the first pic of a setneck I found. Worst case scenario? sure. But when people come along looking for advice, it's not good to make such a broad statement. No parameters were given ,only set Vs. bolt . besides, the OP already stated he was using a bolt on......... The two examples you gave are bad. Why? Because one is 24 fret and the other is 22 frets. I can build a 22 fret neck with better access using a set nek vs a bolt on. That's all.
  7. No it really doesn't... Think about the mechanics of it,exactly...all you are doing is gluing an extra piece on the bottom of the neck,and then taking away the same amount of wood from the neck pocket...but it is exactly the same as if you just left the wood off the neck and routed a regular pocket.. No difference...you still have the same dimensions of the primary neck pocket,which is the three glue lines you hit first..the two on the sides and the one at the bottom of the neck itself... it also depends on the body's neck heel. There are many factors in joint stregth, not just the shape of the tenon. Rhoads' technique involved an extension into the pickup cavity, which is why I suppose it would be stronger.
  8. but the glue line isn't the weak point, so if anything, Rhoads23's technique adds strength. I think we're taking this thread off topic though... sorry to the OP.
  9. The Allied Luthierie rods are very nice, albeit more expensive than the cheapo eBay ones.
  10. Yeah, I'm sure a 3/4" tenon works fine but as you say, if you run it into the pickup cavity, a thicker tenon is a good idea. Rhoads23 had an interesting idea where he took a bolt on neck, glued a small piece of wood on the base of the heel to extend it and thicken it somewhat.
  11. But you lose the side support wood and the neck joint will show from the side. If you're not painting the guitar, I find that a full width tenon isn't as pretty, but it is a little easier if you have to angle the neck.
  12. Why the full width tenon? Will the back be painted? Easier for the neck angle?
  13. Wes - I guess that you just do a set neck with a 3/4" thick tenon? I like my tenon to be a little beefier. Personal preference I guess. All I meant to say with a set neck is that you wouldn't need a big heel/support behind it if it was properly designed VS the bolt on neck the OP want to use. Of course, you could make it an AANJ but if you're making a neck, might as well just glue it in. To the OP, you really should consider making your own neck. They're not all that complex. Just take your time and start with a good template.
  14. Really?!?! Tell that to Ibanez....... Haha! Good one. Yes but you chose the wosrt (Les Paul) and the best (Ibanez AANJ). The problem is that the neck that the OP wants to use is not an AANJ. The set neck on my Explorer gives me great upper register access and is profile exactly the way I want it. This is a 24 fret neck: @ Wes: How do you figure a set neck saves wood? A bolt on uses less wood the way I make them.
  15. A set neck will give you much better upper register access.
  16. I learned my lesson time and time again - I'm never using spray can anything to finish a guitar (unless its something like re-ranch - never tried 'em so I can't comment on them).
  17. Don't use the Zinnser Bullseye shellac sanding sealer as a finish on a guitar unless you want the finish to be very thin. When you apply it in multiple coats, the successive coats make the finish soft.
  18. I would add a piece of wood on either side of the neck join using the same species of wood and glue it firmly. Fix the template and re-route. The repair should be invisible.
  19. Use a sanding sealer on the entire guitar first, then finish with your favorite top coat. I use Bullseye Zinnser Sealcoat sander sealer.
  20. I'm really tempted to try the VS50 mkII because of the price difference. That 3-4 year old VS50 I got (from guiarpartsresource) is holding up very well. The trick to adjusting the saddle lockdown screws without stripping them on the older VS50s is to lower saddle using the two hex screws, then adjust and bring the saddle back up. Where did you get your VS50 mkII? guitarpartsresource.com and guitarfetish.com both have them it seems.
  21. I've used the Grizzly a couple of times already. What a pleasure to work with this bandsaw. Slicing a 7" piece of Maple was a breeze. What a difference a good saw makes!
  22. Yes, the VS100 is a very nice trem, better than the VS50 IMO. I have a VS50 from a 3-4 years ago and the saddle adjustment screws are like butter - they strip very easily. The VS100 is much better in this regard.
  23. I use them on all my floating trems. It works very well and simplifies string changes.
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