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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. Love the colour scheme on the front. Very nice and well executed. The only thing I would change is that rear shelf for the neck join and make it a little smoother, kinda like what Ibanez did on their early (pre-AANJ) Jems.
  2. I use regular glue, a long piece of wood and many clamps.
  3. I ended up getting 6 allied lutherie rods. They seems well made.
  4. I like it! what kind of finish is that? It looks very well done.
  5. Yes, but those are pretty expensive I was hoping that someone would respond with a cheaper alternative
  6. How do you guys do it? A thicknessing planer will likely tear the crap out of figured maple, especially flame maple. What is the proper method for thicknessing flame maple?
  7. That looks like a very nice Bandsaw. Very solid, cast iron table, enclosed motor... I had a Delta shopmaster 12" bandsaw for a couple of years and I just sold it last week. I didn't know much about bandsaws when I got it but had I known what I know now, I would have looked for something on the used market like the one you just bought. I'm waiting for my Grizzly G0555P 14" 1HP bandsaw to arrive tomorrow. I got the riser block with it. I can't wait!!! I've got some sweet flame maple waiting to be bookmatched.
  8. That seems very interesting. Have they come up with a final design yet? I spent a lot of time looking into oscilating spindle sanders, mostly for headstock shaping. Routering a headstock, expecially an angled one is 1) pretty scary and 2) prone to massive tearout, especially on intricate designs. The Ridgid sander just seems like the best overall out there. The miter slot guide is a great feature. I'm working on a thicknessing jig for it using an Incra miter slot guide. I've used the machine a little since I got it 2 months ago and its a breeze to use and setup. The dust collection is great and the belt sander is a huge plus. I didn't think I'd use it but its actually very useful.
  9. That looks like much thicker tape than what I normally use. You're not worried about that shifting? I might give that a try.
  10. Could you post a pic? I don't see how 2-sided tape could work on an angled template
  11. What is so different in spraying the watebased stuff? Is it that I would need a different tip? I don't even know what I have on my spraying gun now.
  12. I made my own template, as I usually do with all my guitars (except the tele I'm working on now). Its pretty easy to make templates once you get the hang of it.
  13. I just used a 1/2" router bit and an MDF template. Looks very nice IMO. I like it when the strings are close to the body so a recessed TOM is what I go for on most of my guitars (unless its an LP or arch top)
  14. So how high do you go in grits? Nitro is pretty forgiving but waterbased stuff seems like it would not be. I was thinking of going all the way to maybe 3000grit before going to the menzerna compounds (Medium, Fine, Extra Fine) but the StewMac instructions recommend 600 grit, 1200 grit max. Does that make sense? I suspect that If I go to 2000 Grit or more, I might not need the "medium" menzerna.
  15. Very nice. Did you use a tint in the clear or was that a stain? It looks like a tint to me. I want to do a black finish and I was thinking of using Stewmac's pigments. I'll definitely look into the EM-6000 product. Looks very interesting and is cheaper than the KTM stuff but I'd really like other people's opinions before I go for it.
  16. With the template at an angle, double sided tape won't work. You have 1 very small point of contact at the shim block @ the bridge and at the nck end, its the same thing.
  17. Excellent idea. I just might try that out when I build an LP style guitar. My idea was to have some kind of adjustment screws at the bridge end but a simple block of wood seems so much easier. How do you clamp on the neck side of things? Assuming you use a router to take the neck pocket wood, the clamps would get in the way, no? Clamping in the middle might bend the template, unless you add another piece of wood under there.
  18. On my next finishing job, I really want to try waterbased finishes. Nitro is great but the fumes and volatility are a big minus for me, especially in the winter time because I can't spray indoors. What are your opinions on the Stewmac water based "lacquer" vs the KTM-9 finish? Is KTM-9 worth the extra money? Does it apply the way way? Is it tintable the same way?
  19. A one piece veneer could work, with a vacuum press, but getting the recessed knob control done right will be very hard to do with veneer. Personally, I'd just get some nice bookmatched maple, joint it and glue it on the top of the Mahogany.
  20. I think that this is a great tool to use. Thanks, Dimitris. Its simple trigonometry and I agree with you that the math is the most precise method of calculating the neck angle and probably the fastest. Coming from an engineering background, I'm totally into explaining things mathematically. This, in combination with a full scale drawing should be fool proof. A lot of people are set in their ways and are resistant to change. Don't let this affect you.
  21. I'm trying to figure out how a stain & clear coat finish is worth. I'm always real bad at estimating things like this. Finishing can be a real pain and there's always a LOT of time involved. I want to do a straight up stain with solid black burst edging, then clear coat. How much would you guys charge?
  22. Ed Roman's rant on the gibson headstock does have merit. I would never build a neck like that. I much prefer a scarfed headstock, a volute or a combination of both.
  23. Ed Roman is,and as a result alot of custom builders are promoting it...but it isn't hyped in the mainstream yet.It may be next though once Jumbo frets keep dying down and laminated necks become "old hat"...The market will always try to make the next "hottest thing" they can use to claim they make better guitars. I thought that was an EVH thing. Suhr guitars does this. I like it. I think it looks clean.
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