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Entry for October 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!
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Technology4Musicians

GOTM Winner
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Everything posted by Technology4Musicians

  1. Thanks guys, and thank to everybody who has voted for me. It is a honour for me finally win the GOTM. I build my first guitar almost ten years ago after have discovered this amazing place. Thank You all!
  2. I want to submit the third of three prototypes I made. This is the last one, then I promise you I will not bother you for a while Here are the specs name: (H)851-6T scale length: 26"- 25.5" number of strings: 6 fingerboard wood: ebony number of frets: 22 with MOP dot neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk body wood: laminated maple /padauk/zebrano/padauk top wood: zebrano / padauk with black epoxy resin binding neck pu: Seymour Duncan '59 bridge pu: Seymour Duncan JB nut: BLACK Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts bridge: BLACK Technology for Musicians (H)T Tremolo (new version with micro ball bearings) This is my thread Here are some pics: Hope You like it. www.technologyformusicians.com www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians
  3. You can do it @Prostheta. I've sold many tremolos to customers who used them on regular guitars by using the knobs as fine tuners. They're extremely precise and now, with ball bearings, they're also ultra smooth.
  4. Hi to everybody. Nice to hear you like them @Pariahrob. I have recently redesigned my saddle by substiting the teflon washers with micro ball bearings and changing the gear ratio. I have also rounded the upper part of the saddle for a more ergonimic shape. I make the same modifications also for the bass saddles. There are no more coin slots 'cause they are not necessary.
  5. New year, new guitar. Hope it can be more lucky than her seven strings sister I posted the last month.. This is one of the three prototypes I made hence do not force me to propose the third one too Here are the specs name: (H)851-6S scale length: 25.5" number of strings: 6 fingerboard wood: rosewood number of frets: 22 with MOP dot neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk body wood: poplar top wood: quilted poplar neck pu: Seymour Duncan Jazz bridge pu: Seymour Duncan JB nut: CHROME Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts bridge: CHROME Technology for Musicians (H)S single bridge saddles (new version with micro ball bearings) This is my thread Here are some pics: Hope You like it. www.technologyformusicians.com www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians Ciao, Alberto
  6. If you take a look to the three guitars I've posted I have realized three custom baseplate for our nuts, 'cause I used traditional double action truss rod (I could not find Music Man style truss rod with spoke wheel). Obviously I can't produce this baseplate in 6/7/8/9... version, straight or angled in different degrees for different scale length, in chrome, black and gold finish. It would be impossible have them in stock or produce them singularly under request. Hence my suggest is to use truss rods with spoke wheel where is possibile, or glue the single baseplate above the truss rod hole access with epoxy. Personally I bought 5 truss rods with spoke wheel for my next builds... PS: nice job with the baseplate. PPS: From the fretboard inlay I realized only now who you are... You build great guitars Andrew.
  7. About two years are passed from my last build. During this time I concentrated on developing my hardware until last release about one month ago. Meantime I have worked into my own guitar design, changing some details from my last build, such as lower horn shape and jack position and make some tries by using or not zero fret to understand which is the best option in my opinion. Probably this time I'm really close, except some minor technical details, to the final version of my own design. I've build three different prototype versions and I want to give a chance this month to this seven strings,. Here are the specs name: (H)851-7S scale length: 26.5" - 25.5" number of strings: 7 fingerboard wood: ziricote number of frets: 22 with abalone dot neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk body wood: maple / zebrano top wood: quilted poplar neck pu: Di Marzio Liquifier 7 bridge pu: Di Marzio Blaze 7 nut: GOLD Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts bridge: GOLD Technology for Musicians (H)S single bridge saddles (new version with micro ball bearings) This is my thread Here are some pics: Hope You like it. www.technologyformusicians.com www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians Ciao, Alberto
  8. As wood selection for bodies I opted for: six strings with standard scale: poplar back, figured poplar top. six strings with multiscale: maple, padauk, zebrano and padauk seven strings with multiscale: maple, zebrano, figured poplar Here are the guitars unfinished with their necks. I have no good pics for the bodies making process....
  9. Here is one neck from front side, ready for the truss rod installation. This is the back view Here is a special jig I made for gluing the fretboard. I use some non stick film to avoid the glue flows onto the neck....
  10. Here I am again... A lot of time is passed from my last post. During this time I have developed my hardware until last release about one month ago and I have worked into my own guitar design, changing some details from my last build and developing three prototypes for the same model: one six strings standard 25,5" scale length with fixed single bridge saddles one six strings multiscale 26" - 25,5", with tremolo one seven strings multiscale 26,5" - 25,5" with fixed single bridge saddles Here were some laminated necks I used...
  11. I used this alu closing profile: http://www.thomann.de/it/adam_hall_6103.htm As you can see the inner space is 9,5mm hence I used a 8mm thick plywood. You have to consider the thickness of the sinthetic leather. Regarding the foam affecting the finish of the guitar... I have not had problems with it. There's many commercial cases that uses that kind of foam.
  12. I've owned several guitars in the past, mainly Jackson and Charvel. Every of them had 25.5" scale length. I remember my brother had a Jackson Fusion model, with shorter scale (24.75") and it was super confortable. So i think to use that scale length for the higher strings. The perpendicular fret will be at the 10th.
  13. Some laminated necks for next builds. I'm drawing the 6,7,8 multiscale versions of my headless guitar. What do you think about the best scale to use for each of them? I thinked: 6 strings - 26"-24.75" 7 strings - 26.5"-24.75" 8 strings - ??? what do you think about it?
  14. "Hi to everybody! I've made a custom headless guitar. It's a very compact guitar but it's about 2cm wider than a Stratocaster at its widest point. The result is that it does not fit in a standard Stratocaster case. I bought a Jaguar hardcase but it's exaggeratedly long for my guitar. I've made a compact, travel friendly guitar and I have to use an enormous case. I was quite disappointed so I decided to build my own case. I decided to document the entire process in order to make a tutorial that will be useful to those who want to challenge themselves in the construction of their own case. Everything was made in my garage: all you need are a saw, rivets, riveter and a drill. I bought aluminum parts for the instrument case from Thomann.de and the plywood from a local bricolage store - they've even cut it from my specs. This is the wood cut: I used PVA to glue the parts. (editor's note: ensure that the joints are perfect to ensure good adhesion in butt joints like these) Some clamps. To avoid using too many clamps I used some screws to fix the gluing. (editor's note: these are pretty much essential!) Repeated it for each side (I used some spacers to keep the glued sides straight). Next the upper side.... Both completed halves.... Matching test.... Aluminium edge protection extrusions.... Cut to measure.... Now the closing profiles, cut to measure.... Detail of the 45° corner mitring.... Matching closure test.... Locations for the butterfly latches marked and cut. I used synthetic leather material to cover the case.... ....glued with more PVA Fitting test.... The aluminium edge profiles were drilled to fasten them with rivets. When you use rivets in wood you have to secure them with washers otherwise you will crack the wood! More aluminium cut for the corners.... Butterfly latch temporarily positioned for drilling rivets holes. Rivets inserted.... Butterfly latch mounted. Hinges.... Handle.... Testing the lid.... Rear.... Front.... Interior.... Detail of the lid mechanism. I used foam for the interior. I bought a 1m² of sound-absorbing foam which I cut for the lid. For the lower part of the case I sent the guitar profile's CAD plan to a specialised company which cut out the shape in the foam to spec. You can compare the dimensions of all of the cases. From left to right: My own custom case, Music Man, Jaguar. This is the final result. Very satisfied with it!
  15. lid stay test back front interior particular of lid stay I used foam for the interior. I bought a 1mq of sound-absorbing foam which I cut for the lid. For the lower part of the case I sent the guitar profile CAD to a specialized company which cut out the shape in the foam from my specs. You can compare the dimensions. From left to right: my own, Music Man, Jaguar This is the final result: very satisfied with it
  16. fitting test I drilled the edges' protections to fasten them with rivets when you use rivets with wood you have to secure them with washers or you crack the wood cutted out the profiles for angles butterfly latch positioned to make holes to fasten it with rivets rivets inserted butterfly latch mounted hinges handle
  17. Now the closing profiles cutted particular of the 45 degree edge Matching test cut the Butterfly latch's slot I uses a synthetic leather to cover the case... ...and a vinilic glue to glue it
  18. Hi to everybody, I hope to write in the correct section. If it isn't so, please mods move this topic to the correct section. I've made a custom headless guitar. It's a very compact guitar but it's about 2cm wider of a stratocaster in its widest point. The result it's that it's not fit in a standard stratocaster case. I bought a jaguar hard case but it's exaggeratedly long for my guitar. I've made a compact, travel friendly guitar and I have to use a n enormous case. I was quite disappointed so I decided to build my own case. I decided to document the entire process in order to make a tutorial that will be useful to those who want to challenge themselves in the construction of their own case. Everything was made in my garage: all you need are a saw, rivets, riveter and a drill. I bought aluminum parts for intruments case from Thoman and a 120cmX120cm multilayer from a local bricolage store which they've even cut it from my specs. This is the wood cut I used a vinilic glue to glue the parts Some clamps to avoid using too many clamps I used some screws to fix the gluing Repeated it for each side (I used some spacers to maintain straight the glued sides). The lower side was made Next the upper side Both Matching test Here are the edges' protections cutted to measure
  19. Same issue for me too. Finishing is very important. It's the first thing we think a customer will look at, 'cause probably is the first thing we look at when we are evaluating a guitar. Unfortunately finishing is the last step of a build... No more chances to repair if something goes wrong. It's true that there are €100 guitars at the shop that have a perfect finish but it's also true that they have thousands of build flaws. We are speaking about industrial products. They have tools, machineries and employees that make the same thing every day. If you make two guitars, same model, same timbers, same finishes, they're surely different from each other. This is the main difference between a luthier and a factory. My brother is a professional luthier: he builds violins and cellos. Classical liuthery is fairly different. Customers choose a violin for its sound quality and privilege this aspect against finishing. I've seen €20K violins with very raw finish but customers seem to ignore it. You're a very talented luthier and it's with builds like yours that people, me too, look at this forum to approach to guitar liuthery. Ciao, Alberto
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