This month's Guitar Of The Month vote is now open....if you're a registered member, head over to check out this month's builds and let us know which you think should be the winner!

http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48931-guitar-of-the-month-vote-may-2017

psikoT

GOTY Winner
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About psikoT

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    GOTM July 2013

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    Vienna, Austria

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  1. Thanks Scott, glad you like my choices... I'm not fan of maple tops and trying to find a wood which looks simple, elegant and doesn't need any kind of stain, dye or sunburst... but I must say that there is some randomness in the process, as you never know what you will get from Madinter. I've ordered a Madagascar rosewood top and they sent an Indian one. But I'm happy with it, I think it looks awesome as soon it gets some spirits on it. Glueing and routing was a hard job, but life is easier with a robosander, I highly recommend it. So this is ready for neck attachment, which means "I need a neck"...
  2. I like that bit-in-the-box-o-matic!
  3. Got the top and the body ready to be glued, just need to find some extra clamps... It's starting to look like a guitar...
  4. I think the question here is how many psi of pressure the top needs to be properly glued. Since is not a structural part and the whole thing will be glued to the body, I guess is enough.
  5. The tension is given through the multiple passes, as every time you pass the chord is giving a lil bit more of tension. But yeah, crossing some stick as tensors would have been nice, in the next one... This method is the same i've used to glue thinner tops, where you place some nails in both sides, but the distance between them is slightly shorter than the width of the top, so the nails are giving the pressure from the side: The problem with thicker tops is that the nails are not strong enough and they tend to bend outwards, that's why I've used the chords, just to keep them pushing inside. I know is not the most professional way to do it but I've checked it and it worked very well. Plus I don't have long clamps...
  6. So I got some days off, which I'm gonna spend with my guitars. I've already started laquering the singlecut and made the templates for this one. I'm gonna prepare the body first, which is the hardest part. I don't have long clamps, so I've used this method to glue the top. Japanes style, looks fine to me... ^^ we'll see...
  7. You can also round the fret ends before installing them... that's something I want to do some day. This is awesome concept, looking forward to see all flushed... not easy though.
  8. White is also cool... glad to see it finally painted, even if it's only primer. That fretboard is too cool to be directly clamped, man... take care. ^^
  9. That's his standard excuse I guess... ^^
  10. Made some progress... So there was no room for triple veneer, due to tight dimensions on both neck and headstock. But single veneer is also cool. I'm tempted to add a binding to the fretboard. I had this koa binding laying around since long time and wondering if I should... Very happy with the truss-rod access. BTW, I'm not going to install the carbon fiber rods, I don't have a proper router bit. Maybe for the next one. I think it's time to make the contour templates for the body and headstock... I hate that. Cheers
  11. I finally could level the surface with the thicknessing jig. Actually, I had to remove some material because I got the neck too short this time. Well, live and learn, next time will take a lot of things in consideration. But yeah, it's done... now I have to think how to make a couple of 5mm slots for the carbon fiber rods.
  12. To be honest, I have no idea about trigonometry... luckily nowadays those things are done by the computer. I don't trust on bridges, no matters who designed them.
  13. I've pinned the two pieces with 4 nails but they got bent while applying pressure with the clamps, so I finally got the headstock 2 mm lower than the rest. But I can level it with the thicknessing jig, I guess... thanks for the suggestion anyway. I saw a jig for this purpose somewhere but I was unable to find it.
  14. So I removed some material from the headstock and got a nice 22 cm long piece, more than enough to keep the original design. Now I'm afraid about the joint ending too close to the volute, we'll see. Then I've proceed to glue both pieces, in a not very proffesional way... hope I don't have to level the neck surface too much. Yeah, I guess I'll save it for the next one... still thinking what would match well with it, maybe a wenge top.
  15. No problem, it's not easy to figure out... I had to redesign the headstock in several builds just because I've added some veneers to it. Keep in mind that for every 3mm veneer, the headstock is like 10 mm shorter. Stupid trigonometry... ^^