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psikoT

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Posts posted by psikoT

  1. Looks very nice!... don't like the heel carve though - I think it's not necessary in this kind of guitar - but experimenting is good and nobody will see it. The overall aspect is excellent. Hope you solved the truss-rod incident and it will plays as it looks.

    I attempted this on a strat with a bubinga drop top recently, did the mistake of trying to level it using Psikot's advice for leveling nitro (starting from P240), its actually surprising in how little places I sanded through.. :P reparing that was a nightmare but it did polish up to a very nice gloss.

    This time I plan to me more careful and only do a very delicate leveling with micromesh or something like that.

    Sorry, maybe I forgot to say that it requires practice... :blush

  2. I've always been of the opinion that quality matters. Junk hardware makes for a more junkier instrument. That said, there's a lot to be said about perception.

    That's precisely what the experiment tries to clarify, through scientific procedures... no perceptions are allowed in the geek area. XD

    I think the difference in quality of materials will not derive directly in the quality of the sound in an quick experiment, but on durability through daily use... so what is important in this case is to know how long the good sound stays before get worse due to material degradation of components, in a long term.

    Of course the steel bridge is always the best option because it will keep the consistence of the whole instrument more time than the one made with plastic saddles (and probably will sound much better) but cheap does not always mean low quality.

    I was wondering about the strings... do you use a new set for every test?

  3. Sadly, after cleaning up after the mess did i make quite a chip in the side of the neck where it's glued with the wings.. What in the world should i do to fix it??

    That chip should not be a problem... you can square it and glue a piece of wood, then clean up the remain. If you make it right, nobody will notice it.

  4. I considered that and wondered if the small pieces of double sided tape would be enough to hold the smaller pieces in place.

    There are some double side tapes which are almost impossible to unstick with hands, but anyway, the MDF is very easy to cut with the router, the lateral force needed is minimal.

  5. Glad you have the problem controlled... I think I didn't understand, still not sure about the direction of the bending, but if the fret slots are too narrow, you should get a kind of convex neck, right?... or I'm missing something.

    Installing the frets in a carved neck is not a problem, maybe it helps to you in the future. ;)

  6. Carving the neck left me with a problem since the neck went into a backbow .. I tried correcting it with the truss rod but after turning the thing a bit it gets stuck, I don't know why, whether its the thread or simply the force from the wood, but I'm afraid to push it further by force (I already used quite a bit of force).

    I think it's better if you let the neck to stabilize a couple of weeks after carving the back... for me, it means that the fretboard radius has to be done after that, so I can check if it needs some extra levelling before giving radius and installing the frets... at the end, it almost will not need any trussrod adjustment (just a little bit)...

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