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About pan_kara

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  1. yea .. I released a full guitar build video recently, where I filmed the whole process of building a mini guitar for my daughter - I had almost 10h of material, I literally filmed almost every step of the process except things like finish sanding, every coat of lacquer etc. This was over 3 years ago, it took me 3 years to find the time to edit all of that material into 13 youtube episodes of ~10-15 minutes each.
  2. I think he means the line that you've created by cutting through - running the binding through there instead of having it vanish
  3. thanks Carl! Yea, I had to find an enclosed space when moving across from France to Switzerland, balcony wouldn't work. Its still an apartment so I have noise and space limitations (no bandsaw for me) but at least the space is fully dedicated to this now. This is a major improvement for me since I don't have a lot of time for building, just 15 minutes to 1-2 hours at a time here and there. The fact that I don't have to set everything up each time (and clean up afterwards) makes the difference between almost not being able to do anything and actually pushing the builds along. looking forward to the youtube series BTW!
  4. LOL I literally just had an idea today of doing exactly this on some future build - solving the problem of bound body with a thin top being uncomfortable on the forearm by carving through the binding and just having it disappear for that section of the outline. I thought I was being original, but now it I ever do it, it will be another thing to put on my list "and now I'll do what I saw Knightro do in the past" . oh well
  5. Here's a weekend shot from my little tight room. The main table has been occupied by my thicknessing jig for the past week or two because I was trying to get the back of a body straight after having glued the two halves at an angle. This is the result:
  6. I saw one guy use a setup like this once, I think he constructed it out of plexi - the sanding block would go between rails, but the rails also had stuff at the bottom so that at some stage the block would just slide on that. If set-up properly, such a jig is pretty much fool-proof. I never had the patience to try to construct something like this though
  7. hah, you're right, I didn't think of that. For some reason I'm attached to the idea that binding goes on the fretboard before it's glued to the neck.. This might actually be a nice solution, also for another small problem that I have (I could use a bit more fingerboard at the bridge edge, otherwise the 24th fret will pretty much only be for the highest string). So I could bind the bottom and end, actually. I was going to just live with it, but I need to still measure exactly where I ended up at, I'm leaning towards going with your solution already. thanks, man!
  8. Turned my attention to the body for a moment and tweaked the cutaways a little on the spindle sander, exposing some of the fantastic table-top construction of the body When thickessing the body I left the bit where the fingerboard would go a bit higher, leaving some room for manouver on both sides of the fretboard. So now that the fretboard is glued I can remove that wood. I figured this is the perfect use case for my silly "straight line jig" since I can just position it at the edge of the fingerboard and lower the router bit down until I reach the level of the rest of the body. well ok in principle, it actually worked perfectly (on one side) just as intended. Well this was supposed to be fool-proof but apparently it isn't. At least it isn't me-proof. I know you have to center the router base for the guide bushing to work ok, and I did it - I believe. So it either slipped out of alignment or I did it wrong in the beginning. Either way, I was about 0,5mm off and the bit ate into the jig (which I'll have to repair) and my fingerboard is 0,5mm narrower at the bridge end now (which I'll have to live with). Oh well. Lesson learned. I'll have to verify centering each time now just to be sure. Still, I could use this to do the route connecting the pickup cavities: So now I go back to the neck. To get the thickness in the right ballpark I ran the roter on the neck back (which is flat at the moment), basically digging a "swimming pool" in the middle, to the depth I want it at. Of course this doesn't give me a taper but at least it sets me up close to the desired thickness. On the next guitar I will upgrade myself to a jig that @KnightroExpressis using for this, I just need to find some straight scrap pieces. I think that's the perfect way to start a neck carve. Before shaping the neck I installed a set of fret markers and I'm working to make the fingerboard flat at the moment.
  9. just price. a set of graphtech saddles is ~70 EUR the hipshot solo bridges are hard to find here and appear to be 30 EUR a piece (so 180 EUR for a 6-string setup) that leaves the ABM that I'm using at the moment are ~18 EUR per piece so again, 110 for a setup (maybe there is something cheaper that I'm not aware of)
  10. I'm a fan of this black&gold mix. Had something similar in mind once but never went with it. I think when done right it makes the hardware much more unique, and here it suits the color theme of the bass perfectly! now do the tuners!
  11. Man, I love these multiscale tele's. The bridge - I only just notice that that's the baseplate+wilkinson-like saddles variety. If I end up doing more multiscales in the future I'd prefer this type of bridge over the single saddle ones. Did you fabricate the baseplate yourself?
  12. I was in the same boat stripping a body that I'm currently making into something completely new. Paintwork went off beautifully from the heatgun and then some weird pink stuff showed up underneath that didn't really care about the heat. Also went with router-thicknessing the thing
  13. well, hello rosewood
  14. what he said do you just whip out a whole tune like this as a demo or you had the backing track done ..?
  15. well I hope it develops into looking even more like a guitar The fretboard is bonding with the neck now: