pan_kara

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About pan_kara

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    Geneva

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  1. Thankfully, I have CatBlock installed in the browser
  2. Nice save with the inlay. This is all done by hand? Looks really tight. Why did the two bolts have to go? The lip on the neck was too thin to screw into?
  3. so this is after clearcoating? when I did my magic marble swirl I think I shot a coat of shellac to separate the swirl from the nitro that I then painted on. (but I think the problem that I gon in scrap tests was that the nitro dissolved the swirl, not cracking)
  4. so 23 fret guitars are becoming a thing now, I see. maybe I should have joined in then .. I think I actually prefer the neck pickup under the 26th fret, not 24th. That way when you plat the 14th fret you maximize the weird effect of the second harmonic being almost not picked up by the pickup giving the funny "quack". I like to have the quack when I bend the G string on the 14th fret. I had it that way in an el cheapo guitar NNN years ago. 24 frets and HSS.
  5. really? I didn't notice.. why, you're a fan of the major 7th? Or you like your blues in C? That guitar is not for me so I preferred to stick to more common specs and had to fix it.
  6. I actually like the way the padouk only shows through the top on the hips, instead of all around (except the cutaways). It plays with the outline in interesting ways. For fingerboard I second the ideas above - I'd personally consider one of the three - black ebony to contrast the rest, padouk to match the .. padouk and maple but straight maple, not busy maple.
  7. hah since you guys missed it I'm maybe not that bad count the fret slots. there's 23. I seem to have a thing for messing up fingerboards recently. At least this one could be saved as it was supposed to be 22 frets so I just had to trim it down, the only pain was the fact that I already did the binding. But its ok now. Glued to the neck and with side dots etc (in that picture the side dots were not yet there, what you see is dirty binding :P) but coming back to the strat - I had two new fingerboard blank arrive, maple and rosewood. So now I need to pick the replacement board for this build and redo it and finally move on. I thought of maple to balance the mostly-dark neck woods and match the accent lams in the scarf joint, but I think I'll go with the rosewood. It has some of the "follow the fanned frets" quality in the grain and could work well with the body that I'd like to swirl in the end. So time to re-cut the frets.
  8. ok, you win I have no place to put a bandsaw so I'm stuck with buying ready-made tops @charisjapangood job with the fingerboards. you're planning to give them how long to settle down?
  9. its funny how the combination of pine and satin finish makes me think IKEA at first glance, but then you notice the uniform straight grain, the "eyes" that it creates in the sides .. awesome! She turned out really nice. Love the body profiling you're keeping the electronics cavity open?
  10. wow I did neck and headstock thicknessing with a hands saw but never fingerboards I guess whoever does a bookmatched maple drop top by hand wins
  11. wow, this is going to be pretty cool!
  12. Basically you need to put a lighter set on to get similar string tension when maintaining tuning but going longer scale. Compare for example the open A string and the low E fretted at the 5th fret - its the same note, but the vibrating length of the A string is longer now that the E string is fretted. And the A string is thinner than the E string. So as you increase scale length you'd need to get strings thinner. You can check any of the string tension calculators available online, apparently going from 25,5" to 27" is more or less compensated by taking a sting set lighter by one "step". So to reproduce the feel of 10's on 25,5" you'd need to put 9's on 27". (just checked on http://stringtensionpro.com/)
  13. Some incremental progress on this build over the weekend. I'm finally getting along with the planing jig and flattened the front of the guitar: I'm leaving the section where the fingerboard will go untouched for now, when the fingerboard is in place I'll flatten the remaining bit. Routing down throught the sealer layers exposes more of what the body was made of - apparently it was pine blocks covered from the top and bottom with plywood. I'm slowly starting to eat into the plywood now. Here's a shot of the back after planing: and the body clamp-down mechanism - a lmi neck clamp run through one of the dog holes in the table: In parallel with this build I have two other guitars going and a bass.. and mistakes are not exclusive to this build. I've been binding two fingerboards recently, before gluing them to their necks, and .. what's wrong with this one?
  14. ah, so that was the trick
  15. so it this build going to be completely router-free? I built my first few guitars without a router, but I did use a dremel on a base to do things like the neck pocket and pickup cavities.