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pan_kara last won the day on November 27

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About pan_kara

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  1. PRS-like project(s)

    you could seal the sides with shellac before staining to make sure you don't touch them.. that's what I did when trying faux binding once
  2. true, but is that really really necessary? I mean supporting (blocking) the nut from the tuners' side. I went and took a look at my guitars - I have a high end Mayones and there appears to be nothing on the headstock except paint (so there might be a tiny ledge created). On my Etna build I just cut a ledge in the fingerboard (it was so thick that resting the nut on the neck itself would have made it too low. Clearly there are ways around this
  3. Four new rockers are coming to life

    I think my preferred order is different from either of the two - I cut the fingerboard to shape first, then glue it to the neck that is rough-cut and then use the fingerboard as a template to trim the neck. But that works since I do the radiusing after that (and fret slots before). For a fingerboard that's already radiused that's more tricky since you lose the flat surface for the router (unless you go from the other side and that is still flat). There I'd probably do as Scott says - glue and then trim both. Or glue the fingerboard and trim it with the neck as a template. I'd never cut both and try to glue later, in my case that's asking for disaster. Or at least I'd need to be very precise with avoiding a slip during glue-up which is something I always have problems with, and here you pretty much have zero margin for error.
  4. what about no headstock cap?
  5. Router bits

    Have you thought about fixed rings Scott? For pickup cavities I typically use the stewmac bits, plus a normal template bit for bigger things. But I'm trying to transition to spiral bits with fixed template guides since I don't seem to find spiral bits with bearings, straight bits are much easier to come by. But that's mostly for things like body outline etc and requires a new set of templates. For cavities I might stick with what I'm using for now
  6. Four new rockers are coming to life

    nice, I'm liking the jig work. I somehow never thought of a double template setup for neck pockets, will have to remember this trick
  7. yea, on cars people normally take scratches out with polishing alone, sanding is really something that people typically are reluctant to try
  8. yea, on cars people normally take scratches out with polishing alone, sanding is really something that people typically are reluctant to try
  9. no no, micromesh first, then buff. If you only have swirls in the clearcoat then you probably don't need to sand at all. Just buff with an automotive polishing compound. Sanding does produce scratches, but going from coarse to finer grits makes the scratches progressively finer - with the finer grits removing the scratches from the coarser ones - so just like sanding wood. In general I think the same principles apply to most clearcoats that people use, both on cars and on guitars. There is a large overlap. Buffing can be done by hand (at which point it will take longer), or by machine - depends what you have available.
  10. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    There was supposed to be some kind of ergonomic benefit from the fan in the higher positions, but I have too little experience with multiscale to have an opinion on that. I only played one and the fan turned out a bit extreme, high positions are confusing to play for me at the moment. I guess one clear benefit of angling the bridge side is the fact that you can have a bigger scale difference before you get into ridiculous fret angles at the nut. Zero fret was my plan exactly. Combined with a standard locking mechanism. Aslo gets you out of having to do a compound scarf
  11. PRS-like project(s)

    I hear you. Any time I can get away with not having to spray is good for me yes, that is a bit different sure, from what I remember also less wood texture comes through. So yours has a different twist to it
  12. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Sure, in principle not - I asked because it looks to me like these are meant to have the bridge perpendicular, which is actually I'm thinking of doing for a guitar with a Floyd Rose
  13. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    So you have a left- and right-handed multiscale in that neck collection.. where is the perpendicular fret for those - the bridge?
  14. PRS-like project(s)

    hah nice finish with that gold indeed, I wonder where you can take this. Mayones do something that they call "vintage gold" or "vintage silver", seems to be having a similar vibe. I also managed to almost rout through the control cavity like that once, realized early enough but also had to glue some wood in, as it was getting too thin.. but with an opaque finish you should be covered.
  15. All right, this time the clearcoat polished up fine. I didn't fully level it with wetsanding except a few places, didn't want to push my luck (and I didn't put a whole lot on), instead I reduced orange peel a bit just by buffing, the end result is pretty good. I even managed to get the insides of the cutaways nearly perfect after a session with the micromesh sanding pads. I've put all the hardware on so now it's just the remaining bit of setup work. I think I'll need to file the bridge saddles down a little, my neck angle (and fb thickness) ended up a little on the low side and I can't get the action as low as it should be on the treble side. Actually everything is low profile, the pickups are sitting almost flush with the pickguard.. I need to watch this more carefully in the future.