Jump to content

ForDaFingaz

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

ForDaFingaz last won the day on October 18 2012

ForDaFingaz had the most liked content!

About ForDaFingaz

Profile Information

  • Location
    Snohomish, WA
  • Interests
    Jackson, Charvel, Kramer, whatever...

ForDaFingaz's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. So my first impression from the response I've gotten is that the higher output pickups override any tonal qualities of the materials in the guitar. I hate to admit this, but I don't own a head or cab. I don't have the space, budget, or neighborhood. I have been running my guitars through a GuitarPort and VST for years. I'll probably get a lot of laughs about this fact. So I'd like to get some opinions from musicians who would use a Warrior on stage or whatever. Technically, would you like to hear some of the tonal qualities of the wood come out by pairing the materials with a mid-output HB, or go more high-output? I know a thread like this might go on forever on this subject. I just need to get a feel based on all the feedback here. Thanks so much for the assistance.
  2. I'm having some trouble selecting pickups for a project I'm doing. I'm constructing a Mahogany Warrior body that I'd like to use with a Jackson DK2M neck. I'd like to use an aggressive set of HBs for this project considering the body shape. I'm just not sure what I should use. I'm considering HBs that are balanced in the tonal range like Seymour Duncans "Black Winter" (high: 6/10 mid: 6/10 low: 6/10). I'm not sure, technically, if this is a good choice considering the body/neck materials. Anyone have a recommendation?
  3. Thanks for the comments! I finished the entire body first with the vinyl sealer from StuMac - brushed it on to get it thick. Then sanded flat of course. The back is a dark chestnut brown metallic polyurethane from Sherwin Williams sprayed with the Preval system. Clearcoat is SprayMax 2K aerosol. Next time I would use the poly in an aerosol instead of the Preval. I think it goes on way too heavy but I'm really only a novice at this stuff so maybe it's suppose to. It wasn't really bad -- just a couple of runs, but I like the results from poly "rattle cans" better. Also, the aerosol has a wider spray pattern -- or I should say the one can I bought for the first try at this.
  4. Working on building a Jackson Warrior. Finished the template cut successfully.

  5. So what the heck - I'll throw up some pics. Because this was really a learn-as-I-go project, I made it easier on myself by just using Rosewood binding. This was my third veneer attempt as well. The first two were too horked to finish. I'm an experienced sander now. I was able to use a laminate router and one of the Stu-Mac binding bits on most of the edge, but the elbow was the trick, right? I decided to use a craft-knife and needle files to form the profile. Bending the binding to fit the horns was "challenging". It ended up splitting a bit, but was able to save it w/some CA glue. I layed in the binding w/CA glue as well. I filled in any gaps w/Titebond mixed with Rosewood dust. Cursed phone - Why you no focus?? I had to fix my first attempt at laying in the binding on the compound curve. The binding ended up bowing out instead of fitting in vertically. Didn't get a pic of that. I had to cut off the offending piece of binding. So after more steaming, bending, heating, steaming, repeat, repeat... There were some flaws - probably happens in just about any project, but I'm really happy with the results.
  6. pan_kara - good point about the contrast issue with the black sides. I think what I'll do is use the ebonized rosewood + maple binding to contrast the black.
  7. I'm expanding my knowledge and experience with guitar building by refinishing a Jackson DK2. I stripped the damaged flame maple veneer and have recently applied a new veneer which turned out spectacular on my third try (I guess experience is everything). I am having a struggle with the thought of binding the body. Sometimes I think it would look really cool to have an ebonized rosewood binding (to match an ebonized rosewood fretboard), and other times I think that a simple "less is more" finish would be best by skipping the binding. I plan on finishing the top with a natural finish with black sides and back (not sure if I'll do gloss or satin) If anyone has had experience binding a veneer top and/or have opinions I'd very much like to hear them. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...