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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on March 17

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About Andyjr1515

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    Veteran Member

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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    gb

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  1. Andyjr1515

    Opinions on Design Direction

    What changes did you make to the top?
  2. Andyjr1515

    Mahogany micro machine

    I like that very much. What scale length is it?
  3. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Wow - now that's what I call taking a little bit off the top!
  4. Andyjr1515

    The Black Queen

    I love this. I can't wait to see it once the dots and inlays are all in
  5. Andyjr1515

    First neck-thru

    I absolutely agree with @komodo on both points. Forstner bit to hog out the bulk, then chisel to clean up the sides and bottom is a pretty sound way of doing the channel (it's actually even the way I do close fitting pickup chambers too!) And absolutely - have the bridge and the fretboard physically there (don't rely on just the stated spec) and draw the critical lines of the top, the fretboard and nut/saddle positions fullsize. Measure the height of the saddles from the guitar top at their lowest setting and at their highest, marking both on the drawing and then draw full size from nut to saddles, with the angle set that would lay the strings on top of the frets when the saddles are at their lowest. Double check that your desired action height or higher is achievable if the saddles are at their highest.
  6. Andyjr1515

    The Black Queen

    Of course!
  7. Andyjr1515

    The Black Queen

    Pints? Did he say pints?? You certainly know the way to a guy's heart @komodo
  8. Andyjr1515

    Not Quite A Tele...

    Stunning!
  9. My goodness. Super high quality work. Fast, too!
  10. Well, after a month of so's delay, I present to you my lightweight 4 string 34" bass, "Great Scott!" The reason for the name can be found both in the build thread: http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49494-another-swift-lite-bass/ and this post here: http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49580-international-rescue-the-power-of-projectguitarcom/ Basic spec is: 34" scale 4 string bass Poplar burr top, swamp ash back, maple /walnut neck, maple fretboard, ebony blocks Luminlay side markers Aero P / J pickups Master vol, master tone, blend Magnetic fixings for control chamber and trussrod cover Knobs made from body woods Finish - mixed stains, tru-oil slurry and buffed (body), Danish oil (neck) Final playing weight sub 6 3/4 lbs I'm a hobby builder and embarked on my first foray into woodworking around 6 years ago. I build for my own use, fellow band members, friends, family and occasional commissions such as this one. I've built bass guitars, electrics and acoustics over that time. Not the smoothest of builds, but got there in the end! In recent years I've been trying to challenge the often surprised statement when an non-player picks up a guitar or bass for the first time, "Gosh - why are they SO heavy???" So this one (and nor are the other electrics and basses I've built recently) isn't So here is "Great Scott!" (and he really is, by the way)
  11. Andyjr1515

    Another Swift Lite Bass

    Was this REALLY only a month and a half ago! It seems like years! Because there was a problem. And all of my own making In short: I'm really not sure how - and how my suite of double and triple checks never picked it up - but, while the neck profile was perfect, once James got to play it properly he realised the thickness was completely wrong! After weighing up the risks of Customs and CITES etc etc of shipping it back to me to fix, and James worried that he wasn't sure of any local luthiers on his island that could do such a job (not only a re-carve but matching re-stain too), I asked someone I knew COULD do the job AND was in USA, avoiding the customs and CITES challenges - our very own @ScottR. Of course the bass was in Hawaii and Scott was in Texas, so airfreight again! And what a super job @ScottR did too! : So was that all OK now? Well...no. Because now it had been on 6 trans-ocean flights (13,000miles or thereabouts), countless van and lorry trips, moved between around 18 transit and customs warehouses...and sort of inevitably, the box had probably been dropped heavily on more than one occasion. Because the neck had now finally flexed, splitting a small length of the fretboard joint at the heel and lifting three of four frets. And the bridge pickup had stopped working. And we were still in the situation of limited luthier skills on the island. So I sent James a detailed phot0-tutorial on how to protect, clamp and what glues to use to fix it himself, and sent a radius block for him to seat the frets with. And - at last - a bit of luck. Ref the electrics, it turned out that the pickup manufacturer (Aero) is on James' island! So yesterday he took it over to Aero and, once they had recovered from their giggling fits at my wiring job, they fixed it. And James is, at long last, a very happy bunny It's a great relief. And only a mere 10 years has been taken off my life expectancy...
  12. Andyjr1515

    The Black Queen

    Kindred spirits, you and I
  13. Andyjr1515

    Skinny builds

    Ah - got you Thanks
  14. Andyjr1515

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    As I say, the Floyd itself and the piezo saddles are great quality. It's just the multipin block the individual two pin connectors push into. This: http://www.graphtech.com/products/product-detail/pe-5017-00-ghost-acousti-phonic-summing-board An average laptop has dozens of such blocks and the connectors never lose connection and the push fit is positive and locked. Unless they have changed their design or supplier, Graphtec's 'summing board' is not at all positive, does not lock and the pins often lose connection to the piezo connectors while visually all looks good. Each time I got them to send me a replacement, I explained the problem. But I don't think they've ever fixed this simple issue - and yet they supply them in their £400+ ghost kits! I even fitted a Schaller Hannes piezo bridge for someone - quite the most expensive bridge I've ever fitted and it had one of these blocks that looked pretty graphtec to me. When it failed just before I delivered the guitar to the customer I knew it was a graphtec one. So, definitely use the graphtec floyd - it is very good - but get a decent connector block from Farnells or RS Components, etc. They are only a couple of £'s if that. As the phrase goes, 'All for a ha'peth of tar, the ship was lost...'
  15. Andyjr1515

    Skinny builds

    I saw your earlier post on this, @komodo - a very interesting design indeed. The back curve is similar to the radius I've used on one or two of mine and I personally think enhances the look and playing feel - particularly on the strap - as well as saving a lot of weight. I will be really interested to see if you agree when this is finished. "The idea is the left and right "body blocks" are glued proud of the neck through blank and then carved into shape. I was trying to see if I could do this and keep 1/8" on the sides to allow the top to have a natural binding." Mmmm - wasn't sure I understood this bit I'm very interested in this build and that cross section looks excellent.
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