Jump to content

Entry for September 2018's Guitar Of The Month is open!


GOTM Winner
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Andyjr1515 last won the day on September 10

Andyjr1515 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

732 Excellent

1 Follower

About Andyjr1515

  • Rank
    Veteran Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
  • Country Flag

Recent Profile Visitors

2,676 profile views
  1. Andyjr1515

    Four new rockers are coming to life

    I've been a bit distracted this last couple of weeks so had missed this. It is jaw-droppingly good! Beautiful, beautiful guitar
  2. Andyjr1515

    6 string roya

    I agree fully with @mistermikev - very cool bass. The maple has come out beautifully well with the sanding and roundovers
  3. Andyjr1515

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    One of the reasons I do detailed build threads is that I have such a bad memory that I often can't remember how I do certain things...even when I have a rare flash of inspiration that actually works. Take binding, for example - my least favourite job on guitars. Except it isn't anymore . Except I forgot it wasn't! And the reason it isn't was a flash of inspiration a couple of years ago. But before I remembered that, I did the top binding the normal way That is, bending: Then gluing with titebond using reinforced tape to hold it tightly in place: Then reinforce that further with the help of tyres off the neighbours kids bikes (they haven't noticed yet): And that gave me this: But what I hate is that it is a lot of faff, it is a bit hit and miss and you don't know if there any gaps until the followig day and THEN what do you do??!!! Well...I did have a couple of gaps And what I did was get my iron out, heat it up to melt the glue, then pull down the binding until the gap closed and held it in place until it cooled. And only then did I remember my inspiration...ironing on the binding! So again it starts with pre bending the binding. Then out comes the veneering kit - pva and iron. Painted glue on the slot: Then on the binding itself: Then let it dry: And then just iron it on! The heat of the iron melts the two pva layers, you hold it tight and in place for 10 to 15 seconds until it cools enough to grip, then move on to the next bit. You can leave it and come back to it. It's fully repeatable and you know instantly that it's worked. 10 minutes after starting the ironing, I had this: Did I tell you...I just LOVE doing binding
  4. Andyjr1515

    My LP Junior

    That is delightful! Welcome to the forum
  5. Well deserved win, @ScottR Wonderful - the design, the woods, the carves and the finish. It's been my absolute pleasure to have my entry beaten to a pulp by it
  6. Andyjr1515

    Final post from Kemp Guitars

    You'll be missed! Best wishes for your ventures - many of us will keep a regular watch on your progress, I'm sure
  7. Andyjr1515

    Bronze guitar

    Yeah - me too! Could be stunning. Another month for me to avoid entering anything when this goes up for Guitar Of The Month!
  8. Andyjr1515

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    And to my least favourite job bar none of any build - binding! I don't have the room (and in the UK they are VERY expensive) for one of the fancy Bosch Colt -type binding cutting rigs. Instead, I use the 'OK I suppose but basically fundamentally flawed but admittedly better than cutting a binding channel with a blunt screwdriver' Stewmac Dremel guide. This one: For anyone who has used one, they will know that the binding slot will be square and even in thickness and following a continuous joint line as long as you can "keep the top-heavy and vibrating assembly with the tiny bearing completely square and perpendicular and tangentially even on three planes all the time while the router bit hits the wood and the assembly scrapes round an undulating multi-radius curve". So I had a think. Surely this couldn't possibly work to at least help keeping perpendicular on two planes? What is it, Andy? Binding!!!! How's it attached, Andy? With SUPERGLUE????!!!!! "Wow - Andy's gone and done it this time! Hey folks - this we HAVE to see...." Well - and here I'll readily admit I'm as surprised as you lot - it worked. And - after doing the best job yet using this device on all three of the binding channels - it's still in one piece!
  9. Andyjr1515

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    No - I think that's just you, Mike Anyone can see it's a pair of tights
  10. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    Hi The demarcation veneer between the top and back was a 'standard' 0.6mm. I used the same veneer between the fretboard and neck.
  11. Andyjr1515

    A Bitsa Dreadnought for me :)

    Did my vague attempt at tap tuning. There is a great video here on the subject - skip to the last 15mins or so where he actually does it and you can hear the difference. As an illustration, in terms of tone, my attempts at tuning end at the point that his begin! Anyway, this is what my braces looked like at the end: Then preparation for the top to be glued. Note the X brace and top cross brace actually extend under the kerfed strip to the body sides: Then - checking once again for a tight fit inside and out (because remember, the outside will be routed away to fit the binding), on it goes! That done, onto the same process for the back - this time using a 15 foot radius dish. Before I do that, I add a back strip hiding the join line. Note, by the way, the fairly dreadful tear out. It was bad, and I tried to lessen it and made it worse! If it had been for a customer, it would have been a scrapper (and the sides too because they are a matched set) but for my own use I will just fill the voids with a tru-oil slurry. Then radiusing the back braces: I shape them first, then glue them using simple cauls to press them into the radius dish: Then added the cross-grain joint strengthening strips - I'm 'breaking the back' slightly during the glue drying to help in that the back accommodates an addition curve as it goes from full body depth at the tail to heel depth at the front: The all important label: Then cut a few protecting cauls for the top, chamfered at the back edges to they don't dig into the soft top: And glued the back! Huge amount still to do but it's starting to look like a guitar!
  12. Andyjr1515

    Bass in Yo Face

    Wow - this is looking so good! I know what you mean about hand made router scrapes, by the way. I do something like this almost every time I use one of the flipping things. Well impressed with your CNC work! Oh and that dint rescue is looking pretty neat too. If you keep practising like this, in time you're going to end up pretty good
  13. Andyjr1515

    Bokchoi's Double Humbucker Tele

    Looking good
  14. Andyjr1515

    Bent side ES style

    That's a significantly tight radius! I'm impressed that it didn't revert a touch. Excellent