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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on July 15

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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
  • Country Flag
    gb

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  1. What do you see as the advantage of Titebond 3 for those particular jobs?
  2. Looks OK to me. Camera position works, sound comes across fine and the real life myriad of options and considerations can be seen. Hope this helps Andy
  3. Very informative once again and, for me, MUCH easier to watch and listen to. Tonnes better A small technical...when you described cutting across the heel end, I think you mixed your clockwises and anticlockwises an therefore the arrow went the wrong way? Nevertheless you got away with it in real life. What I think is a very important safety note that should be emphasised is to ensure the router is cutting no more than one or two mm at a time ( which you did but not sure was explained?). A router of that power hitting a large lump of wood - and particularly on the back-cut runs - would be impossible to hold. The serious consequences of that are known to us, but won't be to first time users who may well be a high proportion of the video's followers. Hope this helps
  4. Then after a LOT of tapping and listening and whittling - frankly, having little to no clue what I was supposed to be doing, except that it was ringing out much more musically at the end of the process than at the beginning - the braces were ready for the final sanding and top for gluing: I always try a dry-fit on stuff where there's a lot going on at the same time as the glue is drying. This is when I remembered my previous build where I thought "I must buy/make some more spool clamps": Rather than lose a few days, I checked the fit and it was pretty close so I opted for tape pulled super taught in the inbetween areas: Based on the extra squeeze-out, I probably got away with it... And while it was fresh in my mind, I've ordered some more clamps just in case there's a 'next time'
  5. Some useful information and well explained, @ADFinlayson . In terms of observations to hopefully help you on this brave venture: Lighting, camera position, zoom and stability is what separates pro videos from home-made ones. The second video was better, but in both, the camera movement is distracting and, at times, made me feel a little sea-sick (admittedly, VR does the same to me, but I know I am not alone on that one) Wide angle lenses distort straight lines. On vid 1, I thought, at first, that the headstock was curved (which, actually, would have been quite cool! ) A personal dislike...I always switch off Youtube videos when irrelevant loud music comes from nowhere. I didn't with yours, but I'm I'm sure folks interested in the insights of our wonderful hobby aren't offended by the sound of a saw, even if its speeded up... I suppose the only other thing to be always acutely aware of is ensuring that a viewer can never interpret what they see as 'an expert guide'. And, more specifically, even if they are clear that it is not, you have to ensure that your own H&S precautions and equipment are at a high standard and emphasise, as appropriate, the need for them to be aware of risks and to take all necessary advice and precautions relevant to their specific equipment and the laws & regulations applicable in their own country. Hope this helps. I look forward to seeing future videos.
  6. A very well deserved win of GOTM, @ADFinlayson And against some very high level competition, too!
  7. Today's job was to get out the Go-bar deck again and this time the 25 foot dish. First the all important cross-brace: And once that was fully secure, the other braces. You can see why I left the tops of the braces flat at this stage!
  8. I like that Good choice with the scale length too...
  9. Normal stuff with installing the Swift: Jeweller's saw: Then Dremel with precision router base: Then epoxy mixed with wood dust: The slightly ragged edges will disappear once the final sanding has been done (once the top is on), but hopefully you get the general idea. The join at the top is hidden by the fretboard.
  10. I used the cut-out middle of the rosette as the template for drilling the two holes in the top: Then being careful to allow for the cutter width, cut the outer and inner edges of the rosette channel: Next, I routed out the bit in the middle, and then went a bit mad with the purfling channels! The Swift is just a paper template. I will inlay one there and then scrape/sand everything flush. And then I can start adding the braces to the top
  11. For the last dreadnought I did, I did an offset rosette which I wanted to try again. This was the last one: This time, I took a note of the measurements! You never know - there maybe a next time! I'd got three plates I could use, so cut out the shape and tried them to see which figuring worked best: Then out with the Dremel. This is about the only job I do with this accessory but by golly it's useful! Then it's a case of measuring correctly and remembering which hole you are supposed to be pivoting around! With luck, you end up with this: Which gives me the rosette. Of course - I've got to rout the same shape in the expensive top wood next...hmmm and that needs to be accurate!
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