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Andyjr1515 last won the day on December 19 2019

Andyjr1515 had the most liked content!

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About Andyjr1515

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    Veteran Member

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Yes please! I'm particularly interested in those neck joints. They look very neat
  2. As @ScottR says, that's a pretty sound solution in it's own right. Got me thinking for my next acoustic build...
  3. All looking good, @mistermikev I also use vero board for similar stuff and also as a common junction for multiple earths, etc. Useful stuff. Love the binding jig
  4. Amazing. Don't know which one I like best, but both of them blow me over
  5. Magnificent, @ScottR ! Having asked for a wood carving chisel starter set for Xmas, this will give me some great ideas what chisels are useful for what. I think it would be many years before I could do something like this, though, correct chisels or not!
  6. I wouldn't bank on it. I still haven't figured it out yet
  7. Hi, Seth Welcome to the forum Another sax player! Excellent Not much to add to the above other than to ask - is the timber now fully seasoned? That is, has it stopped moving? If it is and it has, then no worries. The body of a bass is pretty much just a convenient place to hold the bridge and pickups - you can take HUGE liberties with it. You can fill the cracks or just leave them - although I would personally 'wick' thin CA into where the crack disappears to prevent it spreading further. If it isn't fully seasoned, however, I would personally not use it yet. It will keep shifting and that will affect everything. The neck...also a completely different issue. That does have to be the right grained timber, seasoned and without structural flaws. I presume you are using a different type/source of timber for the neck?
  8. Hi Yes - as @ScottR says, I have been experimenting for a year or two on slimmer and lighter builds. There's a thread here on the topic: Hope it is of interest
  9. There are some very expensive bridges. I rarely fit them, even on very expensive basses. There are a host of excellent and affordable bridges around Yes - basically. When I do my drawing, I take the height of the bridge with the saddles at their lowest position and aim for a string, riding all along the tops of the frets to be able to sit at that height. That is, I want to be able to lower the saddles on the finished bass to the point that the strings touch the frets. On my own drawings, I drop that a mm or two lower still to allow for the effect of relief and to allow for the vagaries of the build. I then draw a line from the nut to the highest position the saddles will go and see what the maximum action height would be at, say 12th fret and 15th. If that is greater than my preferred action height, then I know that the adjustment range of the finished bass will be able to get to as low as I could possibly want and as high as I could possibly want. I have a photo of one of my drawings somewhere - I'll try and track it down...might make a bit more sense
  10. Oh - and by the way, the low B is no problem at all these days for short scale. As I say, there are some great strings around nowadays!
  11. Hi, @TheRavenOfDiscord and welcome! Excellent - another bass builder! Although I am personally a guitar player more than a bass player, I have certainly built more basses than 6-string electrics and most of those have been through-necks. In fact, all of my full bass builds have been through necks - although I have made bolt-on neck replacements for 4, 5 and 6 string basses. You talk about 30" being relatively rare. Well, certainly in the UK it used to be, but here there is a growing realisation within a lot of bass players that, nowadays, you can get just as good a sound from 30" basses, you can get great strings for them and they are MUCH easier to play than a 'standard' long scale. It is interesting that nowadays, I get more enquiries for short scale than I do for long scale... There is a lot of wisdom already expressed in the above replies. Re-iterating some of those answers and adding a few of my own: - The end of your fretboard is going to be around 23" from the nut, leaving you 7" for your pickups. That's plenty. Are you going Jazz pickups or P-type? or PJ? - I build my guitar necks and bass necks to the same thickness. It usually ends up at around 21mm /22mm at the 1st fret (spine to top of fretboard) rising to around 23mm at the 12th. That is usually with a max thickness of 6mm fretboard, so it breaks down at 6mm fretboard + 11mm trussrod & trussrod cap slot which leaves me a minimum of 4mm/5mm timber underneath the trussrod - I don't fit carbon fibre reinforcement rods for 4 or 5 string basses unless specifically asked. I do add rods for a 6 string bass - I usually do a 3-laminate neck with the middle one being a 6mm splice. 5-piece laminates are great and I have done them at times, but I've never had a warp or twist issue with a 3-piece. However, I always use quality timber from trusted sources for the necks. I'm usually happy to use any structurally-sound timbers for the body! - I fit a single, good quality 2-way trussrod. I personally think you can introduce more problems by fitting two trussrods than solve them. If the neck wood is straight, tight grained, properly seasoned and in the right grain orientation, and the fretboard likewise is a decent hardwood and flat, there should not be any warp issues in normal use and storage. One last tip. With a through neck, remember that any neck angle needs to be built into the neck before the body is built onto it. Therefore you need to know what bridge you are going to use up front so that you can sort the geometry correctly. Personally, I physically get hold of the bridge first and check the ACTUAL adjustment ranges and then draw the nut/fretboard/bridge lines full size to work out the angle I need to build into the neck blank. Very much looking forward to seeing your build develop! Andy
  12. This is getting better and better
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