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Andyjr1515 last won the day on January 18

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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. PRS-like project(s)

    That looks great!
  2. Swift Lite 2

    I'd never really thought about that advantage of an offset base. I have one for my little bosch router and, now I come to think about it, it is more controllable for the reasons you state...and yet it's not the base I would usually use for this job. I will this time, though. Great input and great info @Prostheta
  3. Swift Lite 2

    That is very helpful, @Prostheta And I think the general 'must do' rule, whatever, is definitely the 'shallow cut' advice. My assumption, when using standard hand-held router setups, is that climb cutting is safer to the piece but riskier to the person and standard cutting is the other way round. Is that a reasonable conclusion? I suppose this is the crux of the matter. The advice from the router suppliers' manuals tends to be a bit back covering - advising what you should always do even though that will not actually do the job. It's a bit like a car owner's manual saying, 'Please remember that all driving carries a risk. As such, we advise you never to start the engine or release the handbrake.' I am always surprised there is not more discussion - in any of the forums I've been a member of - on this issue. It is a bit of a quandry and router 'events' surely must be the most frequent causes of build problems.
  4. Swift Lite 2

    The problem is that I find the advice in various 'do's and don't's' for routing always a bit contradictory. I now know - and even understand - the advice quoted in many manuals and articles that say always rout 'down the hill': And the explantion above, @Prostheta is one of the clearest explanations I've ever read as to 'why' But then - sometimes in the same 'do's and don't's' - the advice is to always travel into the rotational bite of the bit: So what do people do for the right-hand waist cut in the pic above? Do they: go 'down the hill' traversing the router the wrong way ref the bit rotation traverse the router the right way for the bit rotation but, therefore, 'up the hill' flip the blank over and use a bottom bearing bit (but that would need to be a very long one on a 2" thick body) It gets even more scary when you get to the horns. Clearly, presumably, there has to end up being a compromise somewhere? Personally, I go down the hill, traversing the router the wrong way for the bit rotation - but I've never been sure what I should actually be doing. And surely, this quandry is faced by every builder every time they rout every guitar body? Of course, I know what's going to happen. Someone's going to say, 'It's very clearly explained in the tips and techniques section of this forum, and, due to CE regs on the first page of every router manufacturer's instruction manual and on page 39 of the internationally-renowned guitar builders bible "How to Build a Guitar without Chopping the Ends of the Horns - or your Fingers - Off" by Bert 'three pints please' Scogley Having at last got into my head how to sharpen chisels and cabinet scapers - and what an epiphany that was - this is the next deep-seated mystery in my long journey of discovery related to this most wonderful and terrible of hobbies
  5. Swift Lite 2

    Yes, I think you are right. For me, it's a choice made based on the builds I tend to do, the woods I tend to use and a balance of risks and implications. My reasoning goes something like this: All of my builds are one offs so I never use a body template twice The top woods are usually exotic woods, often burrs or otherwise highly figured, and are therefore often soft or brittle Using an external template, the implication of the router cutter hitting the top wood too hard or running 'downhill' and catching is losing a chunk of the critical and visible shape of the finished item. And the risk is high. Using the top wood AS the template, the implication of a siezed bearing hitting the top wood is, at worst, a slight burn on an edge that can be sanded clean. The risk is medium Which reminds me - I must post a question about downhill routing...
  6. Swift Lite 2

    Soon time to draw the first blood and start cutting wood. I've sorted the join line of the amboyna and tweaked the shape a little - actually, this will probably be tweaked 0.5cm wider either side of the centre line and brought down a little steeper from the rear bout to the upper waist, but this is the kind of shape: This evening I will glue the two halves together and tomorrow, cut out the shape. Some of you will know that I use the fancy top as the routing template - absolutely not recommended by most builders so I don't encourage you to do likewise.
  7. Swift Lite 2

    I got round to having a look at the oak shelf and cut it into body-sized lengths: It's a bit cupped, so I ran it through the thicknesser first to take the hump off, and then reversed to take the wings off. Once it was flat and straight, I thicknessed it down to the nominal 25mm starting point: It will be cut into two wings, either side of the neck and is presently around 30mm wider than needed - as such, I will take off the excess from the rhs in this shot, bringing the feature figuring pretty much into the middle. While the neck will break that feature up - and the back will be scooped - hopefully there will still be a continuity of figuring showing either side of the neck. For oak, it doesn't feel too heavy. When I cut the excess off, I'll thickness a length of the offcut and compare the weight with a similar blank of the sapele. The other good news is - do you remember I made a wrong cut on Tim's Alembicesque and had to re-make the neck? Well - I've still got the original neck. It's here: It only couldn't be used because I'd already cut the top for Tim's. And I haven't cut the top yet for Jane's . So I can use it! It even has the correct neck angle, etc, etc, already done That'll save a bit of time
  8. Tele-Pine-Partscaster project!

    Looking good Ref the bridge position - is that already fixed? If so, it might be a better route to just tweak the left/right neck angle a touch. If it was me, I wouldn't worry about waiting for the ferrules - I would pop a top E and bottom E on normally and just tighten enough for them to be straight. I would then loosen the neck screws a touch and pull the neck towards the bass side - because of the length of the neck, the impact of tiny movements make a big difference to the string position at the upper frets. If I could comfortably reach even string spacing this way, I would just hold the sideways pressure while I retighten the screws. If not, I would just relieve the neck pocket a teeny bit (really talking teeny, teeny, hand sand with a nail-file emery board) at the relevant places and try again. Lining up a neck this way is pretty routine for bolt on or set necks - it is very rare that a neck will be smack on straight first time. Anyway, that's what I would personally do if the bridge is in the correct position. Hope this helps
  9. Swift Lite 2

    Hi Yes - another one. This one is a special commission but one where I can also continue developing the concept of a light and playable guitar that would particularly appeal to older players, young players, new players and women players! It would be ungallant of me to suggest any more than two of the above categories would be ticked - new player and woman player - for this one to be built for my sister-in-law, Jane! The basic construction and design concept will be the same as the prototype - my own Swift Lite: ...which is perfect for my own use but will incorporate, if possible, some tweaks that a lead guitarist might appreciate: the upper horn cutaway positioned to allow a thumb anchor when bending strings at the upper frets the lower horn cutaway deepened, again for optimum upper fret access the lower waist moved rearward for better positioning when playing over knee longer upper horn. The one above balances perfectly at just under 6lbs. The new one will attempt to reach the design weight of 5 1/2 lb and so may need that extra length on the horn to compensate. The other thing I've tried is to teach myself to use Inkscape, after seeing the great results and reading the comments from some of yourselves about the product And here's the Inkscape mock-up with the Amboyna I am intending to use: Oh - and the other challenge, based on the fact I'm going to knock 1/2lb off the weight is that the back is going to be oak Yes - heavy, tool blunting, challenging to grainfill oak There is a reason. The house that Jane lived in all her life and her parents lived in all their married lives had a large oak shelf over one of the fireplaces. When the house, many years later, was demolished, Jane and Chris, my brother-in-law, managed to salvage the shelf...which is now in my shed... Although the above shows two humbuckers, I haven't fully decided the pickup configuration - might even go for a single P90... Anyway - while there is still plenty of deciding to do - let's declare this project open
  10. Stripy Double Cut With An F-Hole

    Wow - only just caught up with this and what a treat to have done so
  11. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    I think that Leopardwood is spectacular! Oh - and love that Amaranth red. As usual, top drawer stuff
  12. Pariahrob's build log

    Ooooooh - shooting board. That reminds me - I promised I'd make myself one this year. I'll get onto it pronto
  13. PRS-like project(s)

    Yes - that looks much more usable @gpcustomguitars . It's quite important to have easy adjustability - particularly for those players who prefer a floating bridge. Ref your earlier question about thumb access on the bass side of your bass turned electric design (which I love, by the way), yes - a lot of lead players use their thumb to anchor round the neck/upper cutout join for bending at the top frets (and thumb at side of fretboard for general bending). It was a bit of a revelation to me when I let a number of experienced lead players try out the Swift Lite, and I will be incorporating that hand positioning in the design of the soon-to-be-revealed Swift Lite mark 2
  14. last guitar built

    Welcome I agree with the others - beautiful. And more photos, please
  15. Stratocaster build

    That's a nice piece of timber. Great figuring.