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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on September 15

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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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    gb

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  1. For sanding level, then I find using a hard sanding block is essential. Soft pads are fine for getting a good surface finish but they will - as you have found - follow the profiles. With a heavily grained wood, a soft pad can actually exacerbate the unevenness by riding over the hard peaks and sanding into the softer troughs. The build's looking good
  2. Yes - I've had my moments In general terms, @ZekeB , with a through neck you can be fairly bold. The most extreme one I had didn't have a heel - the neck depth just carried on along the whole body. But, you do have to be aware of any cutouts - either for the top to slot into or for, say, a neck pickup (as on yours). While the neck is supported at the sides, by the body joint, nevertheless, I would be wary of this distance marked with arrows getting too small: My personal limit is 10mm minimum, and preferably more, otherwise it becomes more of a set neck than a through neck. Hope this helps. It's looking scrumptious, by the way. Just my kind of build
  3. I double and triple checked the bridge position with the jig and then drilled two securing holes through the top E and bottom E bridge pin holes. That done, I squared up the outside edge of the bridge with a block plane: Then popped the drills in from the back so I had some locators when I glued it up: Masked up the bridge area and then razor cut around the bridge and removed the tape to scrape and sand the grain-fill off that area: Finally, added the glue and used my long-reach clamp and the little jig I made to be able to apply clamping pressure to the bridge wings: Left it overnight and then double checked it had stayed in position. And it had Next job is to fit the pickups and then I can get the back on and do the back binding (yes - I know you are supposed to do it the other way round but what else would you expect from Anyjr1515 )
  4. Yes - a very well deserved GOTM win...once again!
  5. When you say outer tang width, I presume you mean the barbs? If so, then yes, that looks OK - your slot is wider and deeper than the strip that the barbs sit on, and the barbs themselves are wider and so cut into the wood at the sides of the slot to allow them to hook in and secure the fret..
  6. That's no problem at all @Bizman62 And I have no problem with the guy's method, but - ignoring my well documented problem with cutting stuff in the right place - there are also some factors that maybe make it as error prone, potentially, as the calculated method. Maybe not for a reset, but certainly for a new build. That is, for the intonation to be right, then everything has to be exactly as the finished guitar set up will be (tension, action height, etc) and - before the bridge is actually fixed - I'm just not sure how easy that is to do. But there is also a second reason for the jig in my case. For Matt, because of his playing style, the distance from the E strings to the edges of the fretboard is critical too. That's an awful lot of things to get exactly right...and remember, we have a guy here who has made a name for himself of getting an awful lot of things just slightly wrong
  7. Yes - you can get both (or, of course, make one yourself). The only trouble with pre-slotted ones is that you are stuck with the angle the maker puts on it. You can see in the photo that the bridge itself is a bit skewed. That doesn't bother me (think jazz bridges) but might bother Matt. I will check with him. If he wants it straight, I can square it up or get an unslotted one and slot it. Whatever, I'll be using my ultra-super-sophisticated strips of wood engineered jig when I finally fit it!
  8. Yes - I haven't seen this particular guy's work before but I'm aware this is a method used by some builders. Trouble is, once you've worked out where the bone should be, you have to cut the slot in exactly the right place...and I'm rubbish at that!
  9. It's an acoustic - so of course it needs yet another jig to be madeFitting the bridge. Always an area needing accuracy - but particularly with an acoustic where, basically, once it's on it's on. Intonation adjustment is limited to the 1mm difference you can make filing the bone saddle angled towards the back or towards the front. And so it has to be right.I use the Stewmac fret calculator app to give me the nut to saddle distances for top E and bottom E, but a steel rule isn't really accurate enough to measure the distances AND get the sideways positioning right.So last night, while watching the TV, I made this from some maple binding strip: One advantage is that on straight, flat pieces of strip, it's a lot easier to get the measurements right with a long steel rule. In use, the bottom cross-member hooks over the nut end of the fretboard and the top cross member fits into the bridge saddle-slot: I line the jig up to give an even distance between the fretboard edges bass and treble... ...and the bridge should now be in exactly the right position. Fingers crossed
  10. If it was mine, I would single-handedly stand in front of it and defend it from even an advancing ARMY of paint sprayers. There are still some things worth laying down your life for.... Seriously, it's one of the most 'together' designs and colour combinations I can remember ever seeing.
  11. I think that's absolutely beautiful!
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