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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Great job, @a2k They both look fantastic
  2. Lovely job. How do you get on with cocobolo for a fretboard? I loved the look of the one I did a while ago, but HATED using it! Sanding the radius was a pure misery
  3. Easily done - almost all of my builds contain a 'bit of a surprise' when it comes to the final neck angle. To me, this doesn't look overly excessive - especially if the bushes are a good interference fit. If it did become a problem in the future, you could always add a stop tail and swop the wrapover for a standard ToM bridge and then there wouldn't be any string tension on the bridge at all...
  4. Mick has sent me the neck profile measurements of his favourite player so that, as far as possible, I can replicate the general 'feel': Ahead of gluing anything together, I've also done some sketches to get my head around how the single-cut transition of the neck will work: In the meantime, I've done a bit of work to the neck - routing the truss rod slot and band-sawing the taper. Single cuts throw an interesting challenge ref the taper, more of which later when you see what I'm planning with the fretboard
  5. Yes - we also have a brand called Record in the UK and I'm pretty sure their 250 model is also pretty much the same Certainly, their drive belt fit fine as a replacement for the poor floppy one that came with the Axminster saw!
  6. OK - with the concept sorted, it's time to start cutting wood : Don't look at the appalling mess behind the bandsaw. Depending how big the piece of wood is depends whether you get a shot of the mess or the more tidy and ordered part of my cellar-workspace. This bandsaw is the smallest bearing-guided one I could find, but the biggest I could actually physically get into the cellar. I have it on a very neat 'lift and move' wheeled trolley so, where the length is needed (like here), I just foot-pedal lift it onto castor wheels, pull it out of its normal station and twist it round 90 degrees then lower it back onto its fixed feet. Then when it's done, just reverse the operation and pop it back into its (relatively) neat station. Anyway, 10 minutes later we have something that is starting to look much more like a bass!
  7. Yes - should be pretty much where a neck pickup would normally go.
  8. IS going to be fretted. 24 of the little beauties
  9. With the spirit, those colours are really popping out. It bodes very well for a beautiful end result
  10. I think I've sorted the final prototype rig - how to get a hidden magnetic pickup close enough to the strings... Forgive the knotty softwood I used but I rigged up a version of the above concept. The pickup I have at hand doesn't have screw-poles but I have one on order that does. Pretend it is that I am using. Here's basically how the pickup will be fitted at the back of the bass (it will have a cover flush with and matching the neck): From the top with the fretboard removed (remembering there will be the four screw pole pieces): Then using the carved archtop thickness carving trick: ... ...a slot is carved into the back of the radius-profiled fretboard around 1mm- 1.5mm from breakthough: Once the fretboard is fitted the slot will correspond to the pole-pieces on the pickup: Wind up the pole pieces as far as they will go in the space and, from the top, it looks like this: ...but the coil is actually only 4mm from the fretboard top and the pole pieces are 1.5mm from the top. This should mean poles 3.5mm or so from the strings and the coil around 6mm - this should work
  11. Ah, but coming from where I was born and bred in the UK (a town that has a most hurtful reputation ), I will of course cheat a bit Along the length will be more like a smooth 'kink' rather than a continuous curve (my drawing above was a bit misleading). Basically, I'm adding a neck angle, albeit after the 24th fret even though the body joins at the 12th...
  12. Looking good from over here
  13. This has reminded me just how spectacularly clean and crisp your woodwork is, Carl. It's a delight to see
  14. Last bit to work out properly and probably add to my lap steel bass (definitely think there's a market there, @ScottR ) is the hidden magnetic pickup. The challenge here is that the body is very thin to start with and gets thinner very quickly as you move away from the centre-line. Add to this the challenge of getting the coil as close to the strings as possible and you can probably see where I'm coming from. The original concept was this: I did some experiments with various metal bits (slugs and bars) laying across the top of the pickups of my fretless and came to a number of conclusions: Built-in adjustable slugs are better than close proximity metal as pictured above If it IS separate, then a rectangular iron bar across the top of the pickup is better than individual slugs All of the above do increase the volume, but you still need the coil itself to be as close as possible to the strings to get the tone as well. The ideal pickup therefore needs to have adjustable slugs, be narrow and be slim So Mick's MEC, nice though it is, is probably not the one. Here's how wide and deep it is compared with, say, the mini pickup for an EB-3: It extends way past the width of the fretboard, reducing the maximum pickup height by a few mm; it is 28.5mm deep against 19.5mm of the mini humbucker (the body depth at the centre is likely to be 30mm max); it doesn't have adjustable slugs. My fear is that any advantage of a nice pickup would be lost - and some - by the extra distance it would be from the strings. My thoughts at the moment, if I can't find anything else, is to use the adjustable slug version of the above mini & that I fitted to Pete's EB-3 style build last year: The curve of the body top in the drawing below is exaggerated for illustrative purposes but I think it explains what I mean....: I'll do a bit more thinking and research and then bounce the options off Mick.
  15. The build looks great.... and Mount Fuji ALWAYS looks great