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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on July 11

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About Andyjr1515

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    Veteran Member

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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    gb

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  1. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    Gosh... Clearly you haven't been listening to MrsAndyjr1515 who says that the only thing that Andyjr1515 understands is criticism and /or physical abuse. I'm quite disorientated....
  2. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    Just two more small jobs to do - fitting the strap buttons and soldering up the three pots. In the meantime - as we have had an unprecedented and very welcome stretch of sunny days (yes - really!) and actually slightly overcast is easier for me to take natural light photos, I've taken advantage of some light cloud to take the arty-f**ty shots Here we go:
  3. Andyjr1515

    anyone use a radius jig?

    Hi again I've been very pleased with the jig I made, although - to be honest - it needs probably a version 2 to iron out the things I've learnt along the way - and in the meantime Carlos at Guitars and Woods in Portugal has brought out a metal one of similar design that I am sorely tempted to buy as an alternative. Anyway - for what it's worth - this is what I designed and built. I say I designed - I looked at what other people did (G&W's didn't exist at the time) and took what I thought to be the best bits of each: As you can see, it's fairly simple: Roller-bearing carriage that the router fixes to A simple frame with replaceable radiused ends for the carriage to traverse The frame itself sits on a flat, melamine-topped board (an old IKEA shelf) that has a couple of binding strips as guides Originally, I arranged it so I could either fix the radial position and traverse lengthways as an option to routing widthways and then traversing in steps along the length: In use, I found it much easier to do the latter and as such, the above was an unnecessary complication. General issues in the design (and this I would think applies also to the G&W product): The radius you cut is, of course, the radius that the end of the router bit is running at. The radius cut for the bearings to run on needs to be adjusted accordingly. In my case, the bit end is 1" lower than the bottom of the carriage bearings - therefore I use an 11" radius template to cut a 10" radius fretboard This makes the packing under the fretboard (which, of course needs to be flat, stable and capable of being fixed with double sided tape) to end up at the correct height quite challenging. If all your fretboards are the same thickness, then this becomes more straightforward by just thicknessing a suitable single supporting beam The further the bit protrudes, the less width of fretboard will the router bit cut. I originally thought - ahaa! I can cut any radius just by extending or retracting the router bit. And yes you can - but the physical width and height of the jig rapidly increases and you end up with a very large rig indeed (witnessed by many of the internet designs) Finding the centre-point of the radius and lining up the fretboard EXACTLY to this position is critical for getting the radius even and 'square' You have to be careful as you come to the end of the board - it is very easy for the bit to ping off the final edge Like G&W's comment about their own product - you still need to finish off with a radius block. But, even so, to do a fretboard now takes me 3/4hr max - and it used to take me days with some woods. Remind me NEVER to try and hand sand a cocobolo board ever again! Why would I consider buying the G&W product - I think the set up accuracy can probably be made more accurately than my creaky, wood-screw affair and the two template ends will be smooth and equal - which my plywood ends are not. However, the packing height issue, the centre-line accuracy, the need for rig set up setting accuracy, the need to finish off with a block, the need to guide it lengthways, etc would be all the same. Hope this helps!
  4. Andyjr1515

    anyone use a radius jig?

    I'll drop some details on in the morning
  5. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    Have spent most of the day on this and so, so, so nearly finished...but knackered, so the final 3 smallish jobs will have to wait until tomorrow Cleaned up and finished the fretboard and levelled and crowned the frets: Then installed the pickups (taking great care not to screw the fixing screws all the way through the slim back! And shielded the control chamber and strung it up to check the action and intonation ranges. Electrics are all in and shielded but not yet wired up (a simple master vol, blend and master tone) and I still have to install the magnets for the truss rod and control chamber covers. Tomorrow morning should see this fully finished. Here's a sneak preview:
  6. Andyjr1515

    JimF's First Build!

    I'm a bit late to the party on this. Great looking neck woods! I was interested to see your experience with the safe-t-planer. I have a pro builder friend who uses one for hesdstock plates and swears by them. Personally, they scare the willies out of me! Good call to opt for a slotted board first off - the learning curve is steep enough as it is and the main objective for a first build is a successful result. Watching with interest and yes, you deserved that ice-cream
  7. Andyjr1515

    Telecaster for a friend

    Good progress all round
  8. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    The finishing is pretty much done and will harden over the coming week. During that time I will do the magnets for the covers, the fret dressing and electrics. While I've had issues in the past with the gloss version, the satin version of Osmo Polyx is super easy to apply (wiped on with a lint free cloth) and produces a very pleasing finish very quickly. Once it's fully hardened, it is also very tough. Here's how it's looking:
  9. Andyjr1515

    Chinaberry Six

    That's very nice routing! I would never have thought of that type of bit, although as you say, I suspect the trick is getting the speed right... By the way, shows true craftsmanship when the hidden features are as neat as the visible ones. Respect!
  10. Again, tremendously detailed run through of your technique, @ScottR Very generous and much appreciated And what results!
  11. The egg white was another 'classical guitar builders used to' product. I reckon traditional classical guitar builders have a lot to answer for It was OK, I suppose, but it was probably only used by some guy in a remote Spanish village centuries ago because the only things readily available for anything were chickens. I'm told beaks make great picks, by the way. Must try it sometime...
  12. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    With a morning's sanding, the bridge is now flush: ...and the body is ready for finishing: There was a feature in the wood that reminded me of a bird's wing shape. Not entirely sure it works, but I emulated that with the fretboard end carve: Unless I'm sensitive about colour, I generally now use the tru-oil slurry and wipe for all of my initial sealing and grain fill, regardless of the final finish (in this case Osmo Polyx Satin. Here it is after the first couple of slurries:
  13. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    It's a Schaller Bass Bridge 2000. Nice and straightforward but with added advantage of adjustable string spacing. I worked recently on a 5 string Shuker bass and was interested that it had this series fitted too.
  14. Andyjr1515

    Chinaberry Six

    My view is that - provided the top has been well glued and that glue has been clamped and then left to fully cure for at least the times recommended by the suppliers instructions, then it will remain stable during the finishing processes. On a piece as thin as that, it doesn't take a lot of force to bend it and, likewise, it doesn't need a great deal of glue strength to stop it bending. I've never had an issue personally.
  15. Andyjr1515

    Swift Lite 4 string bass

    Hmmm - although I was very pleased with the knobs by themselves, I was bothered that they would actually detract from the bookmatching of the top once they were in place. See what I mean? Personally, my eye is drawn to the knobs first. So I made another set - using the plainer area of poplar offcut that I used for the headstock plate: To my own eye, this works better. I'll actually fit these but give Neil the other set too in case he wants to use them instead As you see, I also sorted the position of the bridge and drilled the fixing holes. This allowed me to then do the routing to set the bridge at its final level. I scored the outline, used a 5mm drill for the rounded corners, a Dremel precision router base to hog out the bulk and finished the edges with chisels: Nice snug fit that looks like it's meant to be there rather than just plonked on top: Finally, I scored the 'flush level' line so that I know how much is exposed when I do the final top curve sand tomorrow: The plan is to start the top of the base-plate flush at the centre leading edge and progressively expose the 2mm thickness towards the sides and the back. Well - that's the plan anyway! And tomorrow is indeed the final sanding day with Osmo finishing starting at the weekend. Can't wait Finished weight, to within an ounce either way, is going to be 6lbs 6oz
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