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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on May 1

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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Andyjr1515

    Phoenix Dreadnought Acoustic

    The neck splices: Looks like the Starship Enterprise cruising over I'd forgotten what an unusual beast this was....
  2. Andyjr1515

    Black Limba Flying V

    This is a crackingly good build! I like everything about it.
  3. Andyjr1515

    Phoenix Dreadnought Acoustic

    While it is a good product, it's worth remembering that it is quite specialist and really designed for us on light coloured woods. The whitening in it, although very mild, will accumulate with any thick patches and, on a dark wood, show. Thin enough, though, it doesn't. This bass has black ebony in it...and with care, that stayed black.
  4. Andyjr1515

    Phoenix Dreadnought Acoustic

    Ah...UK. Varnishes, paints and finishes tend not to transfer much between UK and US. Most of the US products are not available in UK so maybe it's the same with Osmo? Can you get any of their products over there?
  5. Andyjr1515

    Phoenix Dreadnought Acoustic

    Hi, @mistermikev Yes - one of my crazier builds. The full thread is here: In brief, it was an ultra-modern bass. Notable features in the spec I was given were: - all white, natural wood - body profile shaped like a contact lens - piezo and magnetic pickups, all hidden - and controls likewise - from the front - fretboard completely integral with body (ie, a body radius of 12" and the fretboard and frets set at body level This is what it looked like when it was finished: It is made from white English Sycamore body and Maple fretboard. No trickery with the photos - this is what it looks like. I used the Osmo Polyx RAW product to finish which is designed to preserve the original colour of sanded wood. In reality, it has a subtle whitener in it but does indeed work - this is pretty much what it looked like when it was freshly sanded
  6. Hi I've got a full build on the horizon but have been catching up on a few bits and pieces - some for other folk and some on my own guitars and basses. As part of that, one thing I do periodically, is remind myself what wood or unused components I have taking up space and which generally irritate MrsAndyjr1515. Although that is one of the few great pleasures left in life, actually I do need to clear some space for the next load of mess I have planned And I came across something I'd forgotten about - neck no.1 from the Psilos Bass build Some of you might remember that originally the hidden magnetic pickup was going to be a standard humbucker. I did a mockup and it looked fine. Trouble was, because it was going to be inserted from the back, then it basically cut right through the neck core: Now, in reality - because there would be the fretboard at the other side - this isn't actually much different to what a deep pickup rout does to a through-neck in any case. But this shot was, admittedly, a bit stark! And Mick, the future owner, asked me if we could re-think. That's when the idea of custom individual coils came up...which is what we went for in the end: But this meant a new neck. So what happened to neck Number 1? Well - nothing until this weekend. Look familiar?: I'll cover the reason for starting another Dreadnought acoustic shortly, but that's where the neck came from
  7. Andyjr1515

    Opinions on Design Direction

    Covers can be a bit tricky - especially ones that cover the whole chamber. How thick are the tops of the covers? If the wood is tight grained enough you should be able to get down to 1mm thickness. What I would then do nowadays (having tried and failed a number of times before) to get it as low as is reasonably practical is: to set up the guitar without covers to set the pickup heights Pop a 1mm packer inside the chamber Sand the bottom on a flat sanding block, trying the cover frequently Continue until the cover won't quite bottom because it's riding on the poles Remove the packer and fix the covers which should now bottom again fully on the body
  8. Andyjr1515

    Demonic stagg guitar

    My goodness - that is completely off the scale. Fantastic!
  9. Andyjr1515

    Custom headless guitar with a head

    I like the idea of a headed headless. I think there are a number of advantages of the headless system - but visually, I just can't get used to the sudden nothingness at the end of a headless headless! Your Canadian Walnut figuring is VERY close to the English Walnut I used for one of my recent re-bodies It's a beautiful wood to work with and, like you, I think the fissures and flaws add to the look rather than detract I very much look forward to seeing how this one develops! Andy
  10. Andyjr1515

    Build #7 -Ollie's Neckthrough flying V

    Wow! To be honest, if anything it's better than the original drawing. The shading effect of the darker shell is very effective. Top class!
  11. Andyjr1515

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    There's nothing wrong with doing that at all in that the string break angle is shallower than the lip would be so there's no clash. BUT - might there be an issue with getting an allen key access and being able to turn it if you are using a modern trussrod? For it to work the normal 'righty tighty' way, the trussrod metal strip would be at the top (as seen on your vid) and the second bar with the allen nut at the bottom. This puts the nut access quite low down in the headstock on an angled headstock arrangement. Usually, this needs a slot, with the sides cut away to allow the key to be able to get in and turn. And hence the usual arrangement of this being hidden by a truss rod cover. This is pretty much the smallest slot to get a standard allen key in and able to turn: Turning a two way truss rod round with the metal strip at the bottom will get the allen nut higher, and it will work just as well, but you will need to turn the allen key opposite way to 'tighten' the truss rod against the string tension. Don't know whether this helps or further confuses
  12. Andyjr1515

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    I did a headstock back plate and a top plate on this one. Worked reasonably well:
  13. Andyjr1515

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    Ah - OK - those are not the ones I thought they were - it's just I thought I recognised the extra-long spindle of the auto-locking ones. The stringhole of the Axesrus ones is 20mm from the flat face the tuner butts up to. The bush is 10mm long and then another 10mm from the top of the bush to the middle of the stringhole. It looks shorter than yours...but might be an optical illusion.
  14. Andyjr1515

    First build - Hollow Custom 22.

    Hi again First of all, compliments on the quality of your videos - meant to say that last time. Great camera angles, clarity and lighting - makes a refreshing change to many of the build or mod videos you generally see... I liked the intro. The basic message of "happy to show you what I'm doing but I'm learning so don't assume this is how it should be done" is a wise message and at least reduces the possibility of inadvertently leading less experienced people into poor or potentially hazardous practices. Couple of suggestions along the way: The tuners you have picked are amongst the longest string shafts on the market. I'm assuming they are the self-locking ones. I stopped using those when I started getting nut angle problems on a Gibson LP despite that company's extreme headstock angle! Back locked ones are much, much shorter and I would be surprised if you needed to then worry about your headstock angle. UK wise, these take some beating: https://www.axesrus.co.uk/Axesrus-Aluminium-Lockers-3x3-Set-p/lc1844an-3x3-setx.htm There are Gotoh tuners and Hipshot rear locking tuners on the same site but those Axesrus own brand ones above are lightweight and super quality - and misleadingly cheap!!! They are cheap in £'s but top drawer in quality and performance in my experience. Ditto the nut. Graphtec do a full-depth LP-style one which is a much deeper body if you wanted to avoid creating a slot in the fretboard In terms of your sequence, the main thing is simply to think through - based on how you are going to do each step with your facilities - what you will use as your datum or clamping faces and how will you clamp, orientate and cut at each step. These are different depending what equipment and methods you are going to use. My method maintains a square face at all times until I don't need one...but that's because of the tools and clamps and equipment I have...or don't have Hope the above helps Andy
  15. Andyjr1515

    First Guitar Build - PRS Style

    Bandsaw for cutting out the body, then !
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