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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Well that's mighty odd. My good lady wife wants similar things doing! You don't suppose they are related, do you?
  2. Yes - exactly
  3. It sure can be. I was tempted just now to get the scrapers out again -and then realised that all the family had gone to bed. Probably not a good idea
  4. Blast! Rumbled...
  5. And the back carve begins
  6. That is sublime. Wonderful job
  7. Just remembered why we've missed you so much! Outstandingly wonderful colours on that neck!
  8. Yes - nice piece of wood. Walnut is one of my favourites...
  9. Ah, but there's a very fine line between exceptionally clever and exceptionally stupid... Let's hope it's the former
  10. To be honest, I haven't worked that out yet. If possible, it will be held with magnets - but that may not be possible. Whatever, the principle will probably be the same - set it into the rebate with double sided tape or maybe a couple of spots of cyano and then carve / sand flush with the body carve. The bigger challenge will be probably sorting the rebate itself...
  11. Well, this looks almost artistic... ...which is probably more than the carve itself is The carved chamber's essential kit: Thickness gauge Chisel Deepest item you're going to need to fit under a flush cover I'm at another "Sit and THINK, Andyjr1515, before even touching anything that is going to remove wood". It is a great temptation to get out the pullshave and start the back curved carve - but I mustn't...yet Factors include: I need to preserve the present flat surfaces until I'm sure all and any routing has been completed. It is extremely difficult to rout on a scooped surface - ask me how I know! The one thing that probably will be routed is the covered shallow chamber the pickup coils will sit under I probably should finish the reference point roundover along the back edge I need to add the two small sycamore fillets at either side of the tuner block support I need to work out just how much depth will be lost from the control chamber when I scoop - and where. Almost certainly I will need to go deeper (and therefore thinner) with the control chamber carve if I want to have a flush cover So I'm going to spend much of the day just sitting on my hands, just looking at it
  12. The controls will be hidden from the front and accessible at the back. I will have a powered piezo/mag pre-amp cum mixer and then, as a minimum, a blend and master volume. I might be able to incorporate a tone too if I can find a suitably small stacked pot. This is where they are supposed to fit: Bearing in mind that I still have to scoop 5mm or so from the back, it doesn't leave a lot of depth. Because I'm working towards the top - probably a thickness of 7mm max, I've gone for Forstner and chisels again. I've done the knobs chamber - now you see them: ...and now you don't: Then started on the main chamber. I reckon I've got another 3mm to go, with a lot of tidying of the carve too! Mind you - at least I got the cable channel in the right place With apologies to Scott for the poor carving so far: Talking of carving, you will have deduced, no doubt, that once the back is scooped and shaped, the control chamber cover will need to be carved too!!
  13. I'm taking this top carve nice and slowly First I gave myself two reference points - a 12mm roundover on the back edge: ...and a soft pencil line along the fingerboard join line to make sure I didn't start carving that inadvertently: Then I set-to initially with my block plane and jointer plane - both with freshly sharpened blades. The figuring doesn't half show up well when it's planed: After a day's effort off and on, I'm starting to creep up on the final shape to the point where I can move to sanding. Again, I've popped the roundover more as a reference guide that getting close the the actual edge finish. As you can see, the profile is still in need of its final smoothing at the edges anyway: The large lower bout is pretty much getting there. With this view, you can see a hump still on the upper section that needs to be planed down before I start rough-sanding to finished shape. What I can now start getting my head around is the control chamber and hidden controls, which I will be routing before I start the carve of the back. Also today, spoke to the guy who is building the custom individual magnetic coils to confirm power and sizes. They will basically fit here, underneath the fretboard: It's getting exciting
  14. It's an interesting question. My own guess - and it is a guess - is that, assuming you are starting with the fabled 'perfect' joining surfaces, it just needs to be enough to squeeze out of the joint and into the grain enough of the glue to the point of wood to wood contact along the whole joint line so that you are not left with a void caused by hydrauliced and then dried glue. But how much that is?
  15. I'll be keeping my eye on those, Scott. I'm aiming for c 12mm roundover on the edges at their tightest...