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Andyjr1515

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Andyjr1515 last won the day on April 3

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About Andyjr1515

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    Derby, UK
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    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Nice neat and tight fit with those pickup routs.
  2. Yes - it's funny that because I'm pretty sure the micro-plane concept was developed for wood-working use first. But - by golly - the catering industry has opened up a HUGE market since. And they work so, so much better than any other kitchen graters! You asked about the next project Yes. There is one. A Guitar Bouzouki. No, no idea...
  3. For the body, standard old-fashioned household polyurethane varnish (Ronseal Hardglaze in the UK), Scott. I will brush it on with an artist's fan brush. It should come out similar to the yew-topped own-design here which was finished with the same varnish:
  4. Yes - it is. I have a coarse, medium and fine one. Generally, I use the medium one. The coarse one is a bit too rough on most woods and the fine one, great for finishing off, tends to flatten a touch rather than cut for decent wood removal.
  5. And so to the carve. First is to mark it out. This was scaled up from a fairly flat-on photo: Now the top is glued to the back, there is little to no chance of, say, a whole knot becoming dislodged. However, the brittleness and variability of the wood was going to take some patient, steady work. The thing I always think kills a DIY SG-style is when the faces are rounded and the chamfer edges aren't crisp. There are a number of ways of maintaining that but, for what it's worth, these are my main tools for the job: Spokeshave with a very sharp blade and set for quite a light cut for the rough-cut external curves, curved medium micro-plane for the rough-cut internal curves, flat and freshly re-burred cabinet scraper to smooth and flatten off the faces. For carves like this, I have in the past used just a scraper, but with this timber, even a teeny scraper burr has a tendency to dig in. For the horn cutaway, pretty much just the micro-plane, but being careful to cut down for the upper edges and up from the lower edges to ensure no chipping along the all-important edges: Grateful for a sunny dry day for this - too many poisonous particles flying around to do in the cramped cellar. Mind you, haven't heard the neighbours moving around for a while... And the first rough carve is done. Here it is lightly dampened to show more closely how the finished figuring is starting to develop: And while I was doing this, a parcel arrived from one of my trusted timber suppliers. Sounds like we might have an ebony fretboard blank As always, thanks for looking and for the encouraging comments and suggestions. Always much appreciated
  6. I suspect that's what the block of marble the Michelangelo worked on looked like before David emerged from it. True artistry, @ScottR
  7. And now it does look more like a guitar I'm pleased with the joins - certainly, with many hints and tips from the good and knowledgeable folks here over the years, I'm getting a bit better at it! It's like this pretty much all the way round. And see what I mean about 0.6mm of maple still being fully visible. So now it looks more like a guitar. The next step is to make it look more like an SG. The chamfer carves start tomorrow...
  8. That's starting to look the business Beautiful job.
  9. Always a case of doing careful measurements and consideration, but I would be surprised if you would have a problem. Remember that the pickups generally sit a reasonable distance above the top surface. This one of mine is less than 30mm thick at the pickup fixing areas - and these aren't slim pickups. I did have to cut the fixing screws to length, though :
  10. And to the other rear wing. This is the one that has the control chamber and the pickup routs incorporated. Note also the maple veneer acting as the demarcation: This particular piece of Sapele was a little bit cupped and so the clamping was going to be particularly important. I first used a couple of sash clamps to hold the joint with the neck tightly. Clearly, it is important not to crush the 'hoop' left by the removal of the control chamber material and so, here, the sash clamp was fixed from the inside of the chamber to the outside of the other half. So I could get maximum clamping force, I also cut shaped cauls from the offcut to be able to clamp all round the edges and with some hefty ply cauls underneath to protect the yew top: It's going to start looking like a guitar soon
  11. And also I think because Ernie Ball has trade-marked the x+y designation (which as a commercial coup takes some beating). So if you describe an arrangement as 4+1, say, without acknowledging that such designation is the property of Ernie Ball Inc which of course I do whole heartedly and if I can just add, well, what a marvellous company they are and wow those products (think that should do it ) then you are open to receiving a cease and desist letter from their lawyers if not a hefty lawsuit.
  12. So I now have a top glued to the neck. Quick check that everything is still square - both on the neck/top assembly and the mahogany. And an orientation of the grain: The upper back - that doesn't have any cable routs or control chamber stuff - then is cut to a 4mm oversize shape, a strip of maple is glued to the join face and then the 'you can't have too many clamps' ritual Note the side clamps to secure the join with the neck, the central blue clamp and caul to get the side fully home and then the smaller clamps and curved protective cauls to ensure that the side joins are fully gap-free. That's enough for today. It's Saturday. A weekend Gin beckons... Wonder what's on for tomorrow - or, given the lockdown, pretty much the same
  13. In all of my previous neck through builds, I have glued the rear wings to the neck, sorted the cable channels, etc, and then added the top. This sort of thing: The big disadvantage - particularly with the equipment (and skills!) I have, I find it very difficult to get the gluing area completely flat. And it does need to be completely flat, otherwise the edges of the top are liable to end up with gaps. So this time, I'm going to do it the other way round - glue the top to the neck blank and then add the prepared wings. So first, I needed to add the demarcation stripe between the top and the back. I'm using standard maple veneer: Although it's only 0.6mm thick, it does show through well and is one of those things that always adds a bit of extra class to any build. The back wings to through-neck joint will have the same feature. Then, because I am weird and I use the top as my routing template for the back (although I may well not use a router on this one at all), I filed and sanded the tooling marks off the edge and brought it to its final shape and then glued and clamped it onto the neck: Next job will be preparing the backs. Stay safe and thanks for looking
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