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Andyjr1515 last won the day on January 25

Andyjr1515 had the most liked content!

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About Andyjr1515

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  • Location
    Derby, UK
  • Interests
    Guitar and Bass playing, mods & builds; sax
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  1. Certainly do, me old cocker!** (** old English phrase that Carl is well familiar with....don't think it's anything rude)
  2. I love the matching inset in the headstock. Real class. All three look pretty good to me - I would be happy to take (all) any of them home
  3. Just caught up with the video. Sounds and looks great! Some great skills on show with your other builds too.
  4. Without no doubt you are not wrong, Andrew. You can't not beat the Queen's English, me old cockle-shell mate!
  5. I've never not ever seen that done like that before. Stunning!
  6. ...oh, and where the braces are, of course.
  7. Pattern-wise, I think it's just a case of moving the circles around on your drawing app until you find a pattern that pleases you. If it is a full acoustic (rather than an electro acoustic) make sure that there is nothing where you need access to the internal chamber. The two things that occur to me off the top of my head are clamping the bridge and any undersaddle piezo or other internal pickup arrangements.
  8. Splendid level of detail here, @curtisa Funnily enough, I spent most of yesterday talking to a guy who is designing a semi acoustic bass destined for a CNC router! My input was about the bass design more than the CNC challenges, but a number of issues you illustrate here came up in conversation - jigging, positioning, clamping. Following this one
  9. While I've also not done it for the same reasons as @mistermikev , I have seen a number of examples and yes, it works well. Use a decent quality epoxy, use proper resin-designed colour additives, ensure the application is bubble free and over filled and do some trials before doing on the guitar - and, most important of all, post pictures of the results!
  10. Did it cut into your template too? Were you doing a full depth rout? There are a number of issues here, in addition to the words of caution the @mistermikev raises. First, with hand routers, is that the golden rule is to be cutting very small amounts of material - whether depth or width - at a time. My personal rule is 2mm max at a time. The reason I set that limit so small is that if the blade digs into the wood rather than cuts it - and I find any deeper a cut than 2mm massively increases that risk - then the full power of the router transfers to trying to either snatch the workpiece from your hands or snatching the router itself from your hands. And - trust me - we've all done it. I have had so many near misses or damaged tops or templates that, nowadays, I only use the router for the final 'tidying up'. The main thing is to get the bulk out first so that you already have a chamber that the router bit is enclosed in with only small amounts of wood left at the sides or the bottom for the router bit to have to remove. Personally, I use a Forstner bit to do that hogging out - as close to the pencil line as I can: You can see here how little material I leave for the infernal router to remove! Carve looks good, by the way. It's when the carve starts that the beauty of a guitar or bass design starts to show itself!
  11. Looking very good. Love that colour. Like the back scoop very much too...
  12. Oh boy oh boy Looking forward to this. And what stunning timbers!
  13. Nice top wood What CNC do you use?
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